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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
If it was the fuel pump, it would happen above 4000 RPM and under hard acceleration- as to leaking, when the fuel line is removed from the tank? I get about 2 oz come out when doing a valve shim.
The tip-over switch has been found to be a problem more so on MK-3 and generally related to being outside in rain, repeatedly. The thing is, it disables the stick coils, fuel pump and injectors and generally latches.

Read this thread-
You know what's funny about this you talking about this sensor and getting wet? Rode through monsoon once the bike seemed like it was just running on one cylinder it was so bad that I actually had to park it then next day so yeah I wonder? I have been through quite a lot of deep puddles and I have driven through some serious rain and that was one of the reasons I went through all the connectors and put the grease in there. Definitely going to check it.
 

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You know what's funny about this you talking about this sensor and getting wet? Rode through monsoon once the bike seemed like it was just running on one cylinder it was so bad that I actually had to park it then next day so yeah I wonder? I have been through quite a lot of deep puddles and I have driven through some serious rain and that was one of the reasons I went through all the connectors and put the grease in there. Definitely going to check it.
read that thread, a 2011, my second post nailed it, it took two mechanics 6 hours to diagnose the faulty sensor-the issue is it is something like a square wave output. From my other thread;
Since the ECU is looking for a positive 3.55 to 4.45 VDC input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
You know what's funny about this you talking about this sensor and getting wet? Rode through monsoon once the bike seemed like it was just running on one cylinder it was so bad that I actually had to park it then next day so yeah I wonder? I have been through quite a lot of deep puddles and I have driven through some serious rain and that was one of the reasons I went through all the connectors and put the grease in there. Definitely going to check it.
I made like so bad in the rain that
read that thread, a 2011, my second post nailed it, it took two mechanics 6 hours to diagnose the faulty sensor-the issue is it is something like a square wave output. From my other thread;
Since the ECU is looking for a positive 3.55 to 4.45 VDC input.
Yeah I did read that whole thread pretty interesting ended up being a fuel pump in the end but could also be the tip over sensor if it's only 30 bucks I might as well just replace it I mean the bike is almost 10 years old now it wouldn't hurt.... it's probably not necessary but I'm okay with throwing some cheap parts at it. I have the 700 page manual for it so I will look into the wiring for that sensor see if I can just jump it temporarily 馃槵
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Well just an update on this piece of garbage I've replaced the fuel injectors did the valve job I think I mentioned that already and put a new stator and rectifier in it now it just totally doesn't work under 4,000 RPM whatsoever misfires stalls various times doesn't idle. I keep thinking the TPS sensor even though power commander says it's okay I'm not believing it I don't know what else controls idle like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Yet another update...

The sub throttle actuator quit working or so I thought so I replaced it with one from a Ninja 650 and it does exactly the same exact thing I no longer have cold idle and I'm getting a fault indicator light I think it's 62 or 63 can't remember the exact number. So it seems whatever is supposed to tell the bike to cold idle is broken I'm guessing that's the ECU at that point I really don't know 馃し

Since the fault light is on it seems to me there must be some damaged wiring or something.

If I spin that little cold idle cam on the throttle body forwards and then turn the key on the bike on it will reset back to zero but then never comes forward to put pressure on the throttle when it's cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Did some more reading and it looks like that sub throttle sensor is spring loaded. I might be putting it in there wrong even though it bolts up just fine 馃

Kind of explain why a new sub throttle actuator is immediately giving me a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So just an update still having this problem.... Just doesn't run under 4000 RPM don't know why...

I swapped ECU for a quick test didn't help, replaced stator and rectifier, fuel injectors, primary and secondary throttle sensors, coils which I did ages ago, spark plugs, did a valve job ect.

So what else controls the spark on this bike Specifically under 4,000 RPM and under?

I am almost at the point of selling this thing because I don't know what else I could replace at this point I know there's some kind of crank sensor that's bottom of the motor possibly the culprit.

I don't think it would be the fuel pump that wouldn't make any sense.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I've taken out those plates ages ago and I'm running a power commander which does have an updated map on it. I've taken that chip out too to see if it makes a difference maybe it was the problem but no...
 

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A question. Have you ever replaced all your vacuum lines?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
A question. Have you ever replaced all your vacuum lines?
Yeah so get this I was working on it yesterday I took everything apart yet again and I figured just for the heck of it what happens if I jump the vacuum lines around. I have the throttle bodies sinked with
a jumper line and for some reason when I moved that jumper line over where the map sensor is supposed to go it runs flawlessly I don't think it's correct and I think there's something wrong with the intake but it finally runs great no problems now.

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Automotive exterior Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
A question. Have you ever replaced all your vacuum lines?
I would like to know why this solution works other than the intake is busted I don't get why this makes it run fine? I also disconnected it the vacuum line completely and it would just shoot fire out of that left hole where the sensor would go that doesn't seem right lol. Like something's definitely busted but I just kind of want to know what it would be with the intake!
 

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I would like to know why this solution works other than the intake is busted I don't get why this makes it run fine? I also disconnected it the vacuum line completely and it would just shoot fire out of that left hole where the sensor would go that doesn't seem right lol. Like something's definitely busted but I just kind of want to know what it would be with the intake!
Have you used starting fluid or propane to test for vacuum leak?

Do you have too much advance at lower rpm's?

Have you replaced your gear position sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Have you used starting fluid or propane to test for vacuum leak?

Do you have too much advance at lower rpm's?

Have you replaced your gear position sensor?
I have not tested for any vacuum leaks but all my lines are fresh.

And what are you talking about gear position sensor? The cam sensor is that what you're talking about?

I don't know what you mean by too much advance at low RPMs. I'm assuming spark which I can't control the power commander only controls fueling.
 

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I have not tested for any vacuum leaks but all my lines are fresh.

And what are you talking about gear position sensor? The cam sensor is that what you're talking about?

I don't know what you mean by too much advance at low RPMs. I'm assuming spark which I can't control the power commander only controls fueling.
Vacuum leaks can develop in other places besides hoses. Have you examined your isolators for example? They get hardened and cracked over time and even shrink a bit, loosening their clamps.

The gear position sensor (if your model has one) will be mounted right next to the shift shaft. Even if you don't have a gear position display Kawasaki can use this sensor to make per gear maps for your bike and even limit top speed by placing an RPM cap in 6th gear.

Wasn't sure how powerful your programmer/tuner was...you mentioned flames at the throttle body which tells me spark is igniting the mixture with the intake valves open (true backfire).
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Vacuum leaks can develop in other places besides hoses. Have you examined your isolators for example? They get hardened and cracked over time and even shrink a bit, loosening their clamps.

The gear position sensor (if your model has one) will be mounted right next to the shift shaft. Even if you don't have a gear position display Kawasaki can use this sensor to make per gear maps for your bike and even limit top speed by placing an RPM cap in 6th gear.

Wasn't sure how powerful your programmer/tuner was...you mentioned flames at the throttle body which tells me spark is igniting the mixture with the intake valves open (true backfire).
I'm not quite sure what an isolator is? A little more detail on that would be great!

Gear position sensor works fine. Tells me when I'm in neutral. I don't think there's any issues with that.

I've also disconnected the power Commander previously just to see if the problem would go away and it made no difference I even swapped ecu's which also made no difference.
 

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I'm not quite sure what an isolator is? A little more detail on that would be great!

Gear position sensor works fine. Tells me when I'm in neutral. I don't think there's any issues with that.

I've also disconnected the power Commander previously just to see if the problem would go away and it made no difference I even swapped ecu's which also made no difference.
This is an isolator:



Just because your gear display is fine doesn't mean your encoder isn't defective. Had a liter bike in my shop that would not rev past 7000rpm in any gear. Turns out the manufacturer set the 186mph top speed limiter by lowering the rev limiter to 7000rpm in 6th gear and the bike "thought" it was always in 6th thanks to a defective encoder.

I saw your other thread about cam gears, have you had the cams out and put something back in wrong or off a tooth?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Vacuum leaks can develop in other places besides hoses. Have you examined your isolators for example? They get hardened and cracked over time and even shrink a bit, loosening their clamps.

The gear position sensor (if your model has one) will be mounted right next to the shift shaft. Even if you don't have a gear position display Kawasaki can use this sensor to make per gear maps for your bike and even limit top speed by placing an RPM cap in 6th gear.

Wasn't sure how powerful your programmer/tuner was...you mentioned flames at the throttle body which tells me spark is igniting the mixture with the intake valves open (true backfire).
This is an isolator:



Just because your gear display is fine doesn't mean your encoder isn't defective. Had a liter bike in my shop that would not rev past 7000rpm in any gear. Turns out the manufacturer set the 186mph top speed limiter by lowering the rev limiter to 7000rpm in 6th gear and the bike "thought" it was always in 6th thanks to a defective encoder.

I saw your other thread about cam gears, have you had the cams out and put something back in wrong or off a tooth?
Those isolators appear to be fine I made sure that the screws were nice and tight I suppose I could check for a leak they are old it is a 2012 bike so 馃し

When I did the valve job everything went great I made sure to use marker and mark everything so I couldn't put it back the wrong way. There was no difference after I did the valve job other than a little bit more noise I made one of the valves a little bit loose but it was kind of tight and I didn't feel like having to go back in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Those isolators appear to be fine I made sure that the screws were nice and tight I suppose I could check for a leak they are old it is a 2012 bike so 馃し

When I did the valve job everything went great I made sure to use marker and mark everything so I couldn't put it back the wrong way. There was no difference after I did the valve job other than a little bit more noise I made one of the valves a little bit loose but it was kind of tight and I didn't feel like having to go back in there.
Didn't know it worked that way with the gear thing too I thought it just pretty much said okay the bike is in neutral and put the little light on the dash I didn't know it had other uses!
 

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Those isolators appear to be fine I made sure that the screws were nice and tight I suppose I could check for a leak they are old it is a 2012 bike so 馃し
Appearance isn't everything. Those particular isolators have a metal base, I can tell because they bolt on instead of clamping on, and as such they use an o-ring gasket between the isolator and head. These get squished over time and shrink or even crack and break. I'm not betting the farm it's your problem but worth a look for sure and it's an example of where vacuum leaks can occur besides hoses.
 
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