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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been flogging this bike as my daily for over a year now. It's mostly good except one tricky issue I have not been able to track down. Riding along normally in second gear for instance if I suddenly whack the throttle wide open above say 3k rpm it sometimes doesn't accelerate fast at all (almost zero accel) and just casually will rev all way to 7-8k extremely slow. However if I roll onto it but still pretty fast it's perfect and doesn't have this issue. Only noticing it in second gear too.

Clutch? No, it's not slipping one bit. Bites great and shifting from 1st to 6th full pin is flawless.

Fuel? I have a power commander in there with a map for aftermarket exhaust. With or without the device connected the problem still exist.

Spark? I put new plugs in recently. Battery age is unknown but starts great even on 10 degree days. A coil could be cracked causing a short? Looked good when I pulled them.

Oil? Doubt this would have anything to do with it. I run Amsoil full synthetic in there since I bought it with 5k miles.

Chain? I do all this work my self, chain is tensioned correctly and is now getting replaced again with front/rear sprockets.

Valves? Yeah they probably need checked but this problem was here way before 15k miles.

Air Filter? Clean as can be.

Mods related to engine. Full Delkevic exhaust, synced throttle body with jumper tube, removed the secondary throttle plates.

History. This bike has been in deep water, snow, mud, salt, jumped ect all the elements all year round.

I checked the TPS and adjusted it using the Power Commander Software, all is good there. Throttle cable might need to be tightened up a bit but this is not the issue. Breather that connects to airbox is leaking, needs replaced.


Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

183204

183205
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds as if the fueling does not have an "accelerator pump" type setting or function. Like the Yellow mode with a Dobeck EJK.
What happens if you roll on and then go wide open? Maybe the TPS is bad or dirty at wide open?
Rolling on even pretty fast works perfect. I know about that setting you're talking about too but my chip doesn't support it. TPS sensor voltages are just fine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think you are chasing ghosts! :unsure:
I wish I was man but it straight up dies with power when I hit it really fast. And It does it every single time. Gets really annoying. It's not like a small power loss it's like the rpm's go up and then it just hangs there until I let go and re apply throttle. It's bad enough that I made this post lol I wouldn't be wasting my time or anyone else!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm guessing, don't have a Versys 650 yet, but plenty of motorcycle experience.
I think you nailed it.
"Breather that connects to airbox is leaking, needs replaced."
It is tuned for the air box.
A sudden application of throttle makes it go lean momentarily.
I never thought it could actually be a problem but I will replace it and see what happens!
Good idea!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I turned the voltage up a little bit on the TPS from 1000 to 1030, running just a little more rich now. I think 1030 is the highest it should be. Seems to be much better? I had more fuel +20 on low and mid with the PC and it still had that problem though so not sure why this would make that problem be less noticeable. Will keep testing. Maybe it's got to be spot on with fueling!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
All right this is driving me crazy at this point. I get this breaking up under 4,000 RPM very noticeable in first gear it seems like it's misfiring sometimes it's severe sometimes it's not but I can constantly hear and feel it. Why is this a problem just go faster you say? That's great now but when I go on a trail or go off road and I'm crawling in first gear the constant stuttering is really bad especially when you're under very slight throttle and it does it it'll almost stop the bike.

Here's the things that I've done to try to solve this problem, replace the spark plugs, replaced the coils, I've had the battery checked, went through all the connectors filled them with dielectric grease make sure they were clean I mean every single one even the computer ect, I've done a valve job got all the valves back to clearance, I've checked for any wires that might be shorted out or damaged can't find any, I disconnected the power Commander thinking that could be it nope, ran a super rich mixture on purpose thinking it was leaning out didn't make a difference, I checked the TPS sensor and it seems to be fine I even went on a ride with my laptop on my lap to confirm that it's not dropping below a certain voltage when this misfire happens and it isn't everything seems normal there. I've removed the pair valve and capped off both ends of those pipes as well and I've also taken out the secondary butterflies in the intake. Replaced the breather tube with a fresh one under the airbox. Also put a nice fresh line to that sensor that sits on the left side that connects to the throttle body not sure what that does but definitely makes a significant performance decrease when it's disconnected.

What other possibilities could it be? Stator not strong enough to give it a spark? Cam sensor going bad? What other sensors can attribute to this type of annoying problem? When the bike is wide open it's fine it has no problem ripping through the gears.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Maybe there's a few sensors that I could jump just to eliminate like the tip over sensor or maybe the kickstand sensor maybe something there is screwing up?

2012 650 with 18k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
First, it is never a good idea to start a new thread.
Have you checked the volts DC at the tip over switch-both the supply voltage and signal voltage to the ECU? Also, did you check and clean the frame grounds, in particular, the ECU grounds, the ECU does not have a negative copper wire from the battery charging system, it relies on the frame ground --this is due to high-frequency noise and something like cross-talk on old communications. As RPM increases the voltage goes up but in particular, the current increase usually equals heat increase and expansion= a better connection.

Also, be aware the stick coils and injectors have a positive feed directly to them, the negative is supplied by the ECU== again the grounds come into play, as does a possible corrosion problem at the ECU-in earlier posts you mention cleaning all connections and adding dielectric grease-was the ECU done this way?
Yes sir I did in fact clean the grounds they are spotless and I even went next to the computer where there's another one and cleaned all those as well I cleaned everything as best as I could and dielectric grease!

Sorry about making another thread too I should have just put it here!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
First, it is never a good idea to start a new thread.
Have you checked the volts DC at the tip over switch-both the supply voltage and signal voltage to the ECU? Also, did you check and clean the frame grounds, in particular, the ECU grounds, the ECU does not have a negative copper wire from the battery charging system, it relies on the frame ground --this is due to high-frequency noise and something like cross-talk on old communications. As RPM increases the voltage goes up but in particular, the current increase usually equals heat increase and expansion= a better connection.

Also, be aware the stick coils and injectors have a positive feed directly to them, the negative is supplied by the ECU== again the grounds come into play, as does a possible corrosion problem at the ECU-in earlier posts you mention cleaning all connections and adding dielectric grease-was the ECU done this way?
I did not check the voltage at the tip over switch but I figured I would just jump those temporarily? Is that something I can do safety?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I asked because the MK-1&2 had a different 5 volt supply and part of it came from the cluster. There is a work around by @dddd , my money is on the ECU and ECU Grounds.
Yeah any and all grounds and connections have been cleaned and dielectric grease! I took apart quite literally everything lol it's been driving me that mad😳
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I asked because the MK-1&2 had a different 5 volt supply and part of it came from the cluster. There is a work around by @dddd , my money is on the ECU and ECU Grounds.
If there is a ground I missed I don't know where it would be the only wire I didn't actually disconnect and clean was the one going to the starter but I'm not having problems with that. All the connections next to the computer when you take off that little plastic cover has been cleaned and the ones to the frame!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
On the MK-2 , have you had the ECU out? Have you followed the wire harness from the ECU, as two grounds are in one of the two harnesses from the ECU and connect to the cross member at the seat, they are 18 gauge.
The tip-over switch is a latch circuit, two symptoms, one the bike starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds and shuts off, starter works, but will not continue to run, keying off then back on, it will repeat with a start and then quit. The second symptom is similar to what you are experiencing, however, the TPC also mimics those same symptoms--one question, have you followed the manual on the TPS --also are all vacuum lines new?
I have set my TPS to 1030 idle via power commander software.! It's tuned perfectly, I actually read through this forum that you posted already, lots of good info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I have set my TPS to 1030 idle via power commander software.! It's tuned perfectly, I actually read through this forum that you posted already, lots of good info.
Adjusted with the engine hot and I even drove around when it had this problem with the power Commander open on my lap and it didn't dip below the idle voltage so I don't think it's the TPS sensor.
 
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