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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have had a few emails about my fuel rig on my bike and I finally got it out of storage, I needed to do a valve job on it so while I have it taken apart I took some good pic’s so others could see how I did it. Now just to be sure these are not directions as to how it should be done. If you do it I’m sure that it will leak gas and result in a fireball explosion killing everyone within a 50 foot radius, and sterilizing everyone that sees it. So if you are actually dumb enough to do this as well, well it’s not because I encouraged you.


The tank that I used is from Racers Choice. It’s a 5 gallon tank #2050. It currently has the stock cap, but I will be putting on the 7036B filler. This is angled and will allow me to fill it without spilling and get a little more in the tank. With the stock filler I can only get about 4.2 gallons in it.

So here is a parts list of what I used for the plumbing:

Part # Description Price Quantity
FBM2007 -8 x 3/8"NP Male Connector $2.48 1
FBN0800 AN-8 AQP SOCKETLESS Hose - Black (per ft) $4.99 6
FBM1533 AN-8 90º SOCKETLESS Aluminum Hose Fitting $11.99 2
FBM1513 AN-8 Straight SOCKETLESS Aluminum Hose Fitting $5.99 1
FBM1532 AN-6 90º SOCKETLESS Aluminum Hose Fitting $10.99 1
FBN0600 AN-6 AQP SOCKETLESS Hose - Black (per ft) $4.49 9
FBM3741 -8 AN Cap $3.49 2
JT31706 Socket, 3/8" NPT Female- Valved 39.99 1
JT32506P Plug, -6 AN Push Lock Hose End- Valved 18.99 2
RHS-8832-06-2 -06 male AN/JIC with 2 tefflon washers and inside flow chamfer - black $4.57 1

Got all of that from hrpworld.com. Nice folks, and were good to me when I ordered the wrong part for one of those.

I also got a shut off valve: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Two-Piece-Ball-Valve-1PYX2?Pid=search. They are business to business only but I just made up a business name and they gave me an account. Told them I was an inventor and needed a part. I would probably have been better off just going female to female and getting the valve at Home Depot. That would require changing the part JT31706 to JT31806 NPT Male. That JT32506P was special order for me. I ordered 2 so that I can have an extra hose to transfer fuel out of the tank to another bike if needed.

I got it all plumed in and discovered that the fuel will not start to flow without a little assistance. After a mad dash around town to every auto parts store I found pep boys had a pump. Their web site sucks so I cant find it on there but here is another site that has it (cheaper too):

http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/mechanical-supplies/fuel-pumps/facet-posi-flo-pump-60106/prod_23458.html

This pump is NPT1/8 female on both sides. I put it in after the shutoff valve and before the quick disconnect. Needed some adapters to go from the 3/8 to the 1/8 on each side, picked them up in the Menards plumbing section. I would probably have done a different set of plumbing had I known that I would need this pump. Hose between the two tanks is about 10” at from rear tank to pump and about 42” from pump to front tank.





I have an on/off switch to control it. I had speedy make me a special mounting bracket for my Zumo with space for some switches, a cigarette lighter and a Volt Meter. I used a Contura switch that I got from Eastern Beaver.



I just run the pump for about 20-seconds to get the fuel flowing and then it flows till there is about a half-gallon left in the rear tank. I start searching for fuel at about 350 miles.

I had a local guy fabricate my mounting system for me. He was of the school that bigger & thicker is better. I’m not totally happy with it but it works. It does flex some. If I’m ever in the Iron Butt Rally it might not pass their flex standards. Still trying to make it more rigid, but hey I’m a computer geek and I don’t work in metal. This was seriously not cheap to have made.






Continued next post...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The biggest challenge of the whole project was putting the plug in my tank. I had an original idea that I would T into the fuel line, and have a pump in both tanks. After a lot of thinking and looking at it I decided that this was a bad idea. This was after I purchased an ER-6N tank and pump real cheap off eBay. The tank was damaged but it had a pump that I was planning on using. Well when I got it I noticed that the bottom of the tank was identical to the Versys tank. This was a god send because I was able to drill it full of holes to see where I should be mounting my tank bung.



In order to get a good round hole it is necessary to use a stepped drill bit.



I first thought of putting the holes up front, but realized that there was no way I would be able to get the inside nut on the bulkhead adapter.



I ended up putting it on the left side of the tank near the pump. Just barely fits. If I had to do it again I think I would have found a welder to weld this rather than use the screw-on adapter.











Well there you have it!

PS if you haven't already figured out by now that if you click on the pics you get a super-high resolution version of the pic.
 

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Now there's a piece of Magyver if I may say so! ... Very nice well-thought setup .. Clean up the install a little and you could sell pre-fabbed kits !
 

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Ever watch a pro ball player and think - wow...no way I can do that, not on my best day....I get that same feeling with this...well done, but waaaay beyond my wrench skills and meager tool set!
 

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Lots of craftsmanship there. Would be a waste for me as my bladder does not last as long as the gas in my stock tank!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ever watch a pro ball player and think - wow...no way I can do that, not on my best day....I get that same feeling with this...well done, but waaaay beyond my wrench skills and meager tool set!
Actually I'm a mechanical moron. Most complex thing I ever did before owning the Versys was change the oil. But when I bought the V I did so with the idea that I would do all my own maintenance and learn how to do it. I just did my first valve job and was surprised how easy it was (course I don't have the bike back together and haven't started it yet so be on the look out for my new engine story :D).

As far as tools go the drill bit was the only special tool. Obviously if I had to make my own rack... well I would be SOL.

Steve
 

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Lots of craftsmanship there. Would be a waste for me as my bladder does not last as long as the gas in my stock tank!!!!!!!
Bladder nothing my back and legs need a break way before I run out of fuel....

Nice job, I can see it being very useful to those that head far away from civilization.
 

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So you added 5 more gallons for a total range of about 450 miles without stopping for gas. In the process you added what, 40 pounds plus the weight of gas (about 40 more pounds) to the weigh of the bike and took the carrying space of the back seat.

With the added range but with limited cargo carrying capacity. Where are you going to go? :confused:

If you are going to a place where you do not need camping or additional gear don't you thing you will find a place to buy gas on the way. :dgi:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
So you added 5 more gallons for a total range of about 450 miles without stopping for gas. In the process you added what, 40 pounds plus the weight of gas (about 40 more pounds) to the weigh of the bike and took the carrying space of the back seat.

With the added range but with limited cargo carrying capacity. Where are you going to go? :confused:

If you are going to a place where you do not need camping or additional gear don't you thing you will find a place to buy gas on the way. :dgi:
Well the rack actually added space for me to put stuff. For example I keep a 1 gallon water jug on the back, something that I didn't have space for before. Rack weight + fuel is about 70 pounds, and yes it rides like a water buffalo when I'm full up.

But the purpose of the extra fuel is because I do Iron Butt rides and Rallies. For example I rode from the top of Minnesota to Key West, FL (2350 miles) in 43.5 hours. I stopped 9 times; 6 times for gas only, once for sleep and gas and twice to adjust gear.

On these types of rides stop time is more critical than rolling time. I make half the fuel stops so I spend half the stop time a stock bike would on the ride. For example before I had the tank I attempted a 1500 miles in 24 hours ride, and with all the stops I had to make it was almost impossible (failed the ride because of how cold it was though). The extra fuel lets me ride slower and get there faster. I now stop 4 times in 1500 miles not 7. At 15 minutes a stop that's an extra 45 minutes of rolling time. Brings my average speed down from 67.4 to 65.2. It doesn't seem like much, but trust me it matters.

This kind of riding is not for everyone and lots of folks don't "get it." My documentation here was just to show how it could be done, not to say it should be done!
 

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My brain gets it. However, the rest of my body (specially my butt) totally rejects the idea :)

Would it be easier to custom fabricate a wider gas tank? Something like the military spec tank for the KLR that holds an extra gallon of gas. A couple of bulges in the tank under the fairing area of the Versys would be invisible.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you mean Macgyver?

Do you know they make auxiliary fuel containers and mounting brackets ($20 at twisted throttle) for adventure touring?
Yes I do... and they are completely outlawed on all the Rallies that I have ever done or plan to do. Plus you still have to stop and dump them in the main tank.

I did have one of these on my 1500in24 attempt, which was a good thing because I ran out of gas... missed my fuel window by 2 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My brain gets it. However, the rest of my body (specially my butt) totally rejects the idea :)

Would it be easier to custom fabricate a wider gas tank? Something like the military spec tank for the KLR that holds an extra gallon of gas. A couple of bulges in the tank under the fairing area of the Versys would be invisible.
Well I wanted at least 350+ miles as the minimum range, This is the mandatory maximum for Iron Butt Rides (not rallies, on those it is maximum 11.5 gallons). I thought about doing this, but there are a few negatives. First you have to find a welder that will do it, I don't know any. Second I have seen a BMW R70 that has a 10 gallon tank (the tank was built for sidecar conversions), and they are really huge. Big advantage of going that route is only one hole to fill!

So given my skill set and how I could envision putting it together this was the best option. I learned a lot and would do things somewhat differently, but in general it works really well.

As to my butt giving out before the fuel does... Well I have a Russell seat that helps a lot, and as an added advantage of the extra fuel is that I can put both feet down when she's full!! Highway pegs also help.
 

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That's one hell of a heavy duty installation. Huge framing, industrial hardware and valve... It looks good with all the extra cargo strapped on. No passenger space, but a good backrest... It must be very wheelie prone with the tall rearward fuel cell topped up. Do you ever let the front go dry before switching to rear, or do you try to burn off rear fuel first?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have to let the front tank go down a little. I wait until the first bar is gone on the fuel gauge, then I open the valve and run the pump for about 20 seconds and leave the valve open. It will then go for about 150 miles before the second bar on the gauge goes down. At about 300 miles I'm down to one bar. I'll run the pump at that point for a minute or so (its a 4GPM pump so thats overkill) I'll get one bar back on the gauge. Then I close the valve. At 340 miles I start looking for gas.

No wheelies, but she is back heavy. Its like having a small passenger that has no clue about leaning with you. Also when I have the water full and I'm crossing someplace hot (Like florida) the bike weighs 60 lbs more when I leave a gas station than when I get to the next one, so suspension settings are a compromise.

Long uphills are fun if the tank is low. Fuel all shifts to the back and it looks like I'm running out of gas on the gauge. Never had it sputter, but I do tend to reach for the pump just in case!

I will say I have huge faith in the Versys engine. On my Florida run I did 1200 miles with only about 45 minutes of stop time. Engine never coughed or sputtered, just kept on humming. And the next morning I was off and did the remaining 1150 without issues.
 

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Impressive but to scary for me, 19 litre is more than enough for me but i am not a iron butt rider as i need my long coffee breaks on the road.
 

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I have to let the front tank go down a little. I wait until the first bar is gone on the fuel gauge, then I open the valve and run the pump for about 20 seconds and leave the valve open. It will then go for about 150 miles before the second bar on the gauge goes down. At about 300 miles I'm down to one bar. I'll run the pump at that point for a minute or so (its a 4GPM pump so thats overkill) I'll get one bar back on the gauge. Then I close the valve. At 340 miles I start looking for gas.

No wheelies, but she is back heavy. Its like having a small passenger that has no clue about leaning with you. Also when I have the water full and I'm crossing someplace hot (Like florida) the bike weighs 60 lbs more when I leave a gas station than when I get to the next one, so suspension settings are a compromise.

Long uphills are fun if the tank is low. Fuel all shifts to the back and it looks like I'm running out of gas on the gauge. Never had it sputter, but I do tend to reach for the pump just in case!

I will say I have huge faith in the Versys engine. On my Florida run I did 1200 miles with only about 45 minutes of stop time. Engine never coughed or sputtered, just kept on humming. And the next morning I was off and did the remaining 1150 without issues.
Just curious what kind of seat are you using when doing those kinds of miles?
 
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