If you follow my many posts, I usually am the one solving electrical problems. Recently there seems to be a large number of weird electrical problems, as if it is a bit of a joke to see if I can be stumped. The joke is on any poster thinking that. You need a digital or analogue volt ohm meter. Disconnect the battery. Remove the fuel tank-caution on the fuel bung, if you never have removed a Kawasaki tank before, best ask or look for photos. I have them in my valve shim check thread.
Two connectors need to come apart, on the right side of the fuel tank, going to the handlebars. What you describe is both the kill switch and he key switch failure-NEVER HAD THAT EVER, on this forum-That is having both fail. More like the seller did some wiring changes. Also what happens when you put the kickstand down?

One last note, it is possible your regulator failed HIGH-Damaged the ECU-and we are talking over $1000 damage. So time to do testing with a meter-
This will take time. There are no shortcuts, and once a electronic device fails, ignoring advice and continue to try, generally causes more damage-to the point it is time to scrap it.
I will help you, but follow me, don't go off trying something different. One saying, the MAGIC SMOKE once escaped, can't be replaced.

 

If you follow my many posts, I usually am the one solving electrical problems. Recently there seems to be a large number of weird electrical problems, as if it is a bit of a joke to see if I can be stumped. The joke is on any poster thinking that. You need a digital or analogue volt ohm meter. Disconnect the battery. Remove the fuel tank-caution on the fuel bung, if you never have removed a Kawasaki tank before, best ask or look for photos. I have them in my valve shim check thread.
Two connectors need to come apart, on the right side of the fuel tank, going to the handlebars. What you describe is both the kill switch and he key switch failure-NEVER HAD THAT EVER, on this forum-That is having both fail. More like the seller did some wiring changes. Also what happens when you put the kickstand down?

One last note, it is possible your regulator failed HIGH-Damaged the ECU-and we are talking over $1000 damage. So time to do testing with a meter-
This will take time. There are no shortcuts, and once a electronic device fails, ignoring advice and continue to try, generally causes more damage-to the point it is time to scrap it.
I will help you, but follow me, don't go off trying something different. One saying, the MAGI SMOKE once escaped, can't be replaced.

Greetings Onewizard.

Really appreciate the time taken to explain in such detailed manner.
I will surely have those advise in mind.

I have arranged a towing to a local workshop, to get it looked at first.
Hopefully its not a major issue (Praying).
Will surely inform the technician to look into the matters that you have informed as well.

I will surely keep you posted on this, really do appreciate the prompt reply btw too buddy.

 

WELCOME aboard durshensubzero23

...and GOOD LUCK!

 

For those reading my post above, I thought a explanation should follow. He mentioned he could hear the cooling fan running fast-Lucky HIM, I am lucky to understand conversation 6 feet away WITH my hearing aids in. The beep-beep-beep-beep of the keyless entry buttons goes unheard without hearing aids in, so I push very hard-at one time I had a small led light that registered input. Weiser changed the design, no more light. Normally I wear hearing aids all the time I am awake-HOWEVER, blowing snow they come out and hearing protection is worn, so getting into the garage man door could be challenging!!

So if the cooling fan was heard and seemed loud, possibly bearing failure or over charging. Over charging would mean the regulator could have failed, although I have seen 15 VDC using the OEM shunt regulator, so if he was above 2500 RPM, quite possible to have 14.9 VDC to 15 VDC , steady on. It is also possible the shunt part of the regulator exceeded 15 VDC, AND a stick coil shorted out.
#1 -So if a stick coil shorted out, a fuse would blow open and the motor would stop.
#2-operating the kill switch, the only way the stick coils, injectors and fuel pump could stay running is if the contact was welded closed.
#3-turning the key switch off, I have included some drawings for a MK-2 electrical.witch has a "ignition" withn a brown wire coming off, this is the output positive power, it goes to a series of multiple taps of brown wire, and to cct #7 fuse circuit.

Directly below the fuse drawing is the fan relay, note the fan Control circuit uses a brown with white tracer off cct.#7. But the power for the fan is circuit #4 GREEN.

Note the key switch has several outputs, not going full explanation, just some reasoning and just how extreme a failure you would need to have what the OP described.Note the spark plugs have two RED wires, those wires are from the kill switch, and on the kill switch, a jumper from that red goes to the start button #3-So the kill switch contact would need to be welded closed. I mentioned ECU failure, the negative side is controlled by the ECU, a catastrophic failure could short out the control circuit of the ECU and allow the spark to continue, rendering all safety circuits in operable. On top of that, the key switch contact for the brown wire and other contacts would also need to be welded closed. Many have seen previous members unable to start their bike because they had no power out from the key switch, yes some have had their key switch contacts fail, but not closed!

To do a post then say it is being towed to a dealer, later? Anyway, many things are possible, I very much doubt the facts will ever come out in this thread, but wonders can happen.

 

Hi Buddy, sorry for getting to you late.

Long story short was, the starting relay gave way. Which glitch the starter to start.

I would like to appreciate you for explaining all the circumstances could happen to my bike.
I really do appreciate it.

Thanks once again @onewizard.
Keep sharing the deepful knowledge around this community.
God bless brother. Take care.

 

Hi Buddy, sorry for getting to you late.

Long story short was, the starting relay gave way. Which glitch the starter to start.

I would like to appreciate you for explaining all the circumstances could happen to my bike.
I really do appreciate it.

Thanks once again @onewizard.
Keep sharing the deepful knowledge around this community.
God bless brother. Take care.

I am lost in the interpretation. Your start RELAY ? Or your start SOLENOID? Gave way/ was at fault / defective?

I went over your first post-it is getting late here and planning for a ride tomorrow .

 

This is in general, for anyone reading this thread. I do not have a clear understanding of post #1 or #6

First, beyond safety circuits and the ECU, side stand or neutral switch.
The primary way of starting or stopping ALL Kawasaki bikes should be your key switch-OPENING the power contacts of the key switch causes a arc-THAT arc, blows away oxide, one major issue with electronics and switched contacts, is OXIDE, when it says GOLD flashed, that is ideal, as all other materials produce oxide-OXIDE is a poor conductor. Oxide is produced when exposed to air, so as long as those SAFETY / KILL SWITCH contacts remain closed= no oxide produced.

If you are having issues with your kill switch, one trick to renew those contacts-provided you can get the bike started-SLOWLY open those contacts several times, that is start the bike, then slowly open the kill switch, this may require two hands, as you are trying to produce a gap of 0.001 to 0.003 of a inch, the ensuing arc will blow away the oxide on the contact surfaces closest to each other. When successful, stop using the kill switch. The only circumstances I can see use of the kill switch is coming to a stop with a vehicle in front of you and your clutch cable breaks, or you crash and the tip over switch fails to function .

Electrical 101
The start relay controls the START Solenoid. The start relay also turns the headlight OFF in the case of a stall, during the duration of cranking.

Many times we assume the battery is OK-The test I have using the starter by itself with even a $10 meter, can prove without doubt, I have experienced battery failure in a instant. Turn the key off, 30 minutes later and just click click-what happens, plates fall / break off-shorting out the battery-when keying on, the current draw produces a magnetic field/arc-enough to finish the battery off.
I like the fact, about 3 minutes is needed to test the battery, just a meter and a heavy screwdriver or 10 gauge wire-You could also use one end of a booster cable, short pieces of copper pipe------

What I state is fact-I have purposely run my battery down, under controlled conditions, somewhat flawed, as I measured volts DC at the battery, not at the 55 watt light, however, I succeeded in starting and running at 7 VOLTS DC-Versys 2015 650 ABS -And my POLARIS regulator was able to fire at 7 VDC!


Note many issues lead directly to the battery-Or bad frame ground


The Key switch feeds the kill switch through proper fusing, if the bike doesn't crank, with the key switch on, in neutral and side stand up, clutch pulled in-chances are 99.9999% that the Kill switch is defective, or is open.

Last, on 2007-2014 Versys , I strongly recommend testing the stator. I recently did a EBAY post on used Polaris series regulators. It takes only minutes and a meter that can read volts AC-many times the connector fails near the stator, causing the stator to fail-dielectric grease should be used-but best to dig deeper into posts like this.
And possibly one day I will continue on the plug and play Polaris regulator. I have solved it and it is cost effective, no special tools needed. I just don't see the interest anymore on the forum, so have let it go. I am running a 50 amp 4016868 Polaris. I have my first CompuFire series regulator, and also the 4012941 SH775BA Polaris purchased off Ebay and tested.

TTYL

 

A little electrical 101-Fusing / Branch circuit wiring. This first is from the thread I added in post #9
The second one,located at the bullet connectors for the fog lights, I ran a 10 gauge 30 amp circuit that powers both my horn relay and power relay, made a mounting from a scrap cover I had laying around . So my horn relay has a full 30 amp available, triggered by the original wiring to the original horn. The power relay output goes to a very simple cantwist wire nut or marette , from there all my branch circuits have their individual fuses, all accessible from inside the front forks . The power relay is switched by the bullet connectors for the fog lights. So off the output of the power relay I have:
#1 -my Oxford heated grips fused @ 5 amp
#2 -my cigarette lighter socket fused @ 15 amp ( adapter for GPS plugs in here)
#3-my Gerbing jacket coax connector fused @ 10 amp
#4-a remote wire going to the front above the headlight, used to power a second cigarette lighter / USB outlet fused @ 10 amp

The original 5 amp auxiliary fog light socket is still available as is almost 98% of the 5 amp circuit.

__ - - -
So doing the math, adding all the fuses=30 amp to the horn and 5+15+10+10 yes that is 40 amp plus the intermittent 30 amp horn, generally the fuse is good for 30 seconds at full load-so considering what I would call continuous loads, ignoring the horn, I have 40 amp worth of fusing. However, actual loads are about 3 amp for the Oxford grips and jacket about 6 to 8 amp. It is always best to pick a fuse that will run close to 80% load. So the nearest fuse available for my grips is 5 amp, at 80% =4 amp. Generally you want to be as close as possible, fuse EACH circuit, consider if I used a 15 amp fuse on my grips, if they shorted out, it could cause my 30 amp main fuse to blow, with the added loads of my gerbing jacket and my Denali lights.

What you want is all devices protected, should something fail, the last thing you want is to be at the side of a road in the dark, trying to get your lights working, because you hit a fox and damaged something in your wiring.

So two ways to calculate. First if you know the current say 3.5 amp at 12 VDC =divide by 0.8 = 4.375 -nearest fuse is 5 amp. The second way is picking a fuse, say 5 amp again, multiply the 5 amp by .80 or what we are doing is using the 80% load rule - 4 amp again, so if your load is 4 amp or less, the 5A is your fuse. Say you have a circuit that draws 1.5 amp maximum, could easily be damaged, the 3 amp would be ideal.
Below is a list of common fuse sizes. I am running both versions, and carry spares. In over two Versys, since 2008, I have never had a fuse blow-NORMALLY. Yes I blew my 25 amp fuse for my stop and go compressor, by accidentally shorting out the socket, also blew a cigarette lighter socket that was cheaply made, the center pin came loose and shorted with the negative ground-cheap is cheap.





Mini Blade Fuses Automotive- Standard Auto Fuses Micro Fuses + for Car/RV/Truck/Motorcycle(2Amp 3A 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A 35A 40A)

 

Welcome aboard. Nice introduction mate. Glad it was a simple fix. Now go out and ride. Be safe.