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I noticed my front tread was getting low, so I got out the tools and changed it on 03 October. I bought a PITTSBURGH Bead-Breaker at H-F awhile back - worked fine on the rear I changed earlier this summer, but - NOT OK for the front - I was afraid of damaging the brake-discs, so I got out my old Bead-Breaker that works a 'clamp as you tighten a large bolt'. I started early, 9ish, but FINALLY finished around 1400. My hands were sore as were my knees and my back, so I made up my mind - I'll remove wheels, but I'll take them to the bike-shop and let their STAFF and stuff "do the work".

Here's pics of the front E-705 w/ 25,879 kms (16,091 miles), altho' I got 30,169 kms (18,746 miles) from my last, as well as a pic of the NEW tire installed w/ zip-ties, altho' I DIDN'T think to take a pic till I'd removed MOST of them.

THEY SURE MAKE INSTALLING THE TIRE A LOT EASIER (probably only 1 or 2 minutes AFTER installing the zip-ties)!

IMG_0267 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

IMG_0268 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

IMG_0269 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr
 

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My hands hurt for two days after my next to last tire change, then I got a flat on the back tire with less than 1000 miles on it and had to do it all over again. My technique could obviously use some refinement. :-D


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

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I've been doing my own tires for years. But at local shop I was at told me that he'd mount and balance for $35 per wheel if I brought him the wheels and new tires. That's really not a bad deal if you ask me. However I already invested in the tools to do it myself. So that's a conundrum.
 

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I just had a rear(15th) tire mounted and balanced at my local independent shop. $20 cash to the owner and I take the old tire with me(free recycling for non-business is close by). Obviously, that is an off the bike price, although 3-4 years ago he did an on the bike install for about $100(again, cash) + the tires. His price on the tires was close to internet pricing(It was a package deal).

My previous tires, replaced as a set, cost $150 at a great independent shop in downtown Hamilton, MT. back in July. For that money, all I did was put the kick stand down and remove the saddle bags. I then wandered around downtown Hamilton for a couple of hours while they did all of the work and called me when it was done. I thought that was very fair price and the work was performed by folks that have years of experience. Motorcycle Garage is the name of the shop. You can either order parts/tires through them or they will accept drop shipments from online outlets. Good folks, experienced techs, and fair pricing.
 
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My wife is funny when she encourages me to pay someone to do work. She reminded me that the money I spent on a lawn mower would have paid the neighbor kid to cut the grass several seasons. The thing she misses is that I enjoy some kinds of work, including working on my vehicles and taking care of the lawn.

For now, changing tires is something I get satisfaction doing myself. Curse words during the process notwithstanding!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been doing my own tires for years. But at local shop I was at told me that he'd mount and balance for $35 per wheel if I brought him the wheels and new tires. That's really not a bad deal if you ask me. However I already invested in the tools to do it myself. So that's a conundrum.
I ONLY hope that I'll get mine changed for that price. I intend asking the shop I bought the V from what they charge IF I buy the tire from them, as well as IF I bring one.

I'll ALSO have tire-changing tools FOR SALE at some point, on this Forum.
 

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On my last service in official kawasaki service I also replace both tires. Replacing tires and balancing cost 15$ per tire. For that price I will never try to change tires myself.

But if there is a situation that I have to change the tires myself, I just have to make sure I don’t damage the rim. The way the tire is replaced is the same as a bicycle, only this tire is much bigger and stronger.

Curse words during the process notwithstanding!
Oh curse words was on 1000% when I tryed to replace 10 inch tire on my 50cc scooter, before few years.
Man, that was hardest tire change ever, I think that I will be 90% faster in changing car tire.
This little 10inch tire are thick, tubeless, and small, and I need to use a bunch of force to fit tire on rim.
 

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Break the beads using a 2x4 levered under a trailer hitch with appropriate sized short 2x4 against the tire, then, Lever up each bead and cut 'em with a cheap HF cut off wheel/grinder.. Makes removal super easy. Just make sure the burnt rubber is going toward the tire, not the wheel, or it'll make a mess.Takes minutes..........
 

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That's some pretty aggressive tread you've got there Eddie. but I forgot that you are not always on pavement. You still swear by those Shinko's i see? If a set of Road 5's cost me $330, what would a comparable set of Shinko's cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
At BikeBandit: $81 for a 120/70x17 and $90 for a 150/70x17. Radial tubeless.

So NOT bad $, and I did NOT look for the lowest prices.

(y)(y)
 

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A couple of months ago, I needed a new front on my V1K. And I needed it put on NOW, I used the 2 x 4 under the hitch of my truck to break the beads, then got on the floor, on hands and knees, and with the help of 2 short spoons, managed to get the new T-31 mounted.

Oh, I turn 70 next month, and hurt for a couple of days, afterwards.

However......A few weeks ago, I found a NoMar Classic, with a bunch of accessories, cheap on Craigslist. Don’t know when I’ll use it, since the 3 bikes all have new tires.
 

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I used to just use a cheap, large, C clamp for bead breaking. It worked great for tire removal. Like @fasteddiecopeman I gave up changing my own tires. Removing them from the rim was easy but spooning on new rubber, without damaging the new bead, and getting it properly seated, is an exercise in self-flagellation without the use of a tire machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WOW!!!

For ME - exactly the OPPOSITE!

Getting the old rubber OFF was always my issue. Since I started using "zip-ties" - getting the tire back on became about a ONE MINUTE job (plus the time required to get the 20 to 24 sets on the new tire), and I've used many different lubes, inc WD40, KY jelly 'personal lubricant', etc.

IMG_0269 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

[I had already begun removing zip-ties when I took this pic.]
 

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I'll have to try the zip tie method then. Do you use spoons with them? Are you using tubed or TL tires? My experience was with sport touring tires with an extremely tight bead.
 

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Huh. Never tried that zip-tie method. How does that work ?
We have a No-Mar tire changer, and I heat the new tires before installing them.
 

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I'll have to try the zip tie method then. Do you use spoons with them? Are you using tubed or TL tires? My experience was with sport touring tires with an extremely tight bead.
Yes. They're tubeless, and a VERY tight bead, plus I lube the tire SAME as if I were installing it w/out zip-ties.

Huh. Never tried that zip-tie method. How does that work ?
We have a No-Mar tire changer, and I heat the new tires before installing them.
I leave my wheel and tire in the sun to heat up BEFORE I remove the old tire, and I attach two zip-ties together (tho' you can do it w/ just ONE IF it's long enough!), then around the 'hot' new tire.

I pull to tighten the zip-ties (LOOSELY) till there's around 20 - 24 sets ON. I THEN kneel on the new tire while tightening the zip-ties till the TWO sides of the tire-beads CONTACT each other, at which time I lube the beads, and PUSH the tire DOWN onto the rim. It will go onto the rim about 90%, and THAT is when I use the spoons for the last little bit.

Then cut and remove the zip-ties, add air to 'set' the bead, and add "Dyna Beads", followed by airing it up to pressure.

Some use zip-ties to remove the old tire, but I've never tried THAT!

:cool:
 

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@fasteddiecopeman

Thanks, and I'm going to have to try that !
 

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This morning I removed my front wheel (w/ the SHINKO E-705 130/80 x 17 rear tire on it), REVERSED it, then re-installed it, to "even out" the tire wear. (NORMALLY I remove the tire, then install it reversed, but thought that as the wheel is symmetrical I would save time and effort by reversing it, PLUS I do not EVER want to change another tire.)

As USUAL I was having difficulty installing the front axle into the threaded portion of the left fork-leg. I had gone so far as to thread the axle IN from that LEFT side to "chase" the threads (a "poor-mans-tap"), when the realization that I HAVE a BRAND NEW UNUSED VERSYS FRONT AXLE in my box of V650 goodies, hit me...!

I 'dug' it out, slid it thru the right fork-leg, and started threading it IN just w/ my fingers!

I do NOT remember EVER being able to do that on any other front-wheel re-install on any of my three V650s!!!

I plan to take the "old" axle to a BIG hardware store - so I can buy a die to 'clean-up' the threads whenever I am in the process of 'working w/ a front wheel' again.

(y)(y)

:cool:
 

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Went for a 4.5 hour, 190.1 mile ride yesterday (FIRST after reversing the front wheel). The bike handled and braked SAME as before - VG.

Took a pic of the front tire when I got home, and the "dust" on the tread indicates that my "wear-pattern" IS being reversed.

Thanks for the technical help Dave!

IMG_0531 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

(y)(y)
 
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