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Is there more to lowering front end (on the V) than sliding the fork tubes up higher in the triple clamps?

If I max out mounting in the triple clamps, am I in danger of the fender crashing into the radiator when the suspension bottoms out?

The reason I'm asking is - I'm considering installing the Progressive 465 shock, with the -1" (lowering) option, on my 2008 V.

Thanks.
 

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Is there more to lowering front end (on the V) than sliding the fork tubes up higher in the triple clamps?

If I max out mounting in the triple clamps, am I in danger of the fender crashing into the radiator when the suspension bottoms out?

The reason I'm asking is - I'm considering installing the Progressive 465 shock, with the -1" (lowering) option, on my 2008 V.

Thanks.
You're putting that shock on the rear. You want to lower the front to match, right?

I think you can only go about an inch on the front anyway, as the fork tubes start to taper.

No rocket science to lowering the front an inch, and there's no clearance issue.
 

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I lowered mine too and that's pretty much all I did as well. I lowered mine as far as I could go to the top of the tapered portion. I also marked the original position on both sides with a sharpie in case I wanted to go back to stock without measuring/guessing where it once was. Double check the torque on the bolts after a ride or two. Mine never came loose but it made me feel better knowing they were solid.. There are a few threads on this mod somewhere in the forums with some pretty good advice and lessons learned posts you may want to explore before diving in...
 

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On my 2009 V, I installed HyperPro (30mm) lowering progressive front fork springs. Eliminated much of the "dive" when braking hard with front brakes - and lowers the front by 30mm (1.25")
 

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Your front end can be lowered in 1, 2, or 3 (a combination of 1 and 2) ways.

1. Adjust the height in the fork clamps. Easiest, as nothing needs disassembled.

2. Install a travel limiter on the damping cartridge. This requires fork disassembly. The limiter restricts the forks full designed extension. This will also reduce your range of fork travel. This technique is used in converting dirtbikes to supermoto or roadrace bikes.

3. Want to go really low? Do 1 and 2. A combination of 1 and 2 can also be a compromise to avoid how close you get to placing the fork tube on their taper when sliding them in the clamps.
 
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