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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I had just swapped to a 16T front sprocket few days ago, and got a problem.

It worked very nicely when I accelerate, but when I decel without pulling
my cluth; the chain that's feeding in from the rear sprocket will start
grinding the upper metal fender on the engine side.

I am also suspecting it is my chain that's not moving fast enough, so it moves upward when the rear speed is faster, and thus grinds the upper metal part.

Has anyone ever experience this?
Any suggestion will be appreciated!

Thanks!:thanx:

PS:I bought this frontsprocket from Cycle Parts Nation last year, and just
found out that it has no "OUT SIDE" markings on the rubber, it has just "0038" on both sides of the damping rubber. It came with original Kawasaki package, I suppose it is an OE sprocket, did anyone get something different?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks opie74,

I did adjust the chain according to manual (25~35mm slack), then I get some smack
sounds from the chain when accelerating, I think they might be from those stiff links.
Which brought me back to thinking about time for a new chain...*sigh*
 

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If you have stiff links in an X or O ring chain wouldn't that indicate that the rings are bad and have lost their lubrication? I am not sure how that would affect your chain on deceleration, but it sounds like it is time to replace it. The 16T front sprocket would be easier on the chain from what I have read on the forum. My chain made a lot of noise and jumped around until I replaced the worn front sprocket. Have you checked your rear sprocket for wear? How many miles/kilometers do you have on the chain?
 

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Might be from running a worn chain on a new sprocket. If your old sprockets show signs of wear then you should change out both sprockets and the chain all at once.:goodidea:
 

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hi there invader

funny you mention this,

I was checking as the guys fitted in the 16 dampened (oem part number for zx-6 2008). Yes it seemed a tighter fit of course, but comparing with spiderman´s photo mine does not seem that tight, spiderman´s appears to be tight as it enters the area, then opens up, mine is like the opened up area all around
Do not notice any noise, or anything different and weird in that area

Suggest we all take pics to compare ?

don´t really know what to say other than things are really smoother now including the gearing..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank everybody,

I had changed everything during this weekend: new DID 520VM Gold chain, SuperSprox 46T rear sprocket and a DMV golden billet chain adjuster. Everything's GOLDEN now...very cosmetically satisfying...:yeahsmile:

Invader, I've just read that the spiderman thread from the link. Man...his chain guard had worn so much more than mine!:eek:! But since I have everything changed, and adjusted chain slack to about 30mm, the decel noise has gone for good. I am a happy person again!:cheers:

I think I had really kept my chain too loose in the past, and I guess my chain really deserves its retirement too. When I took the old chain off the bike, I lined it with the new DID chain toghether. At the end of the 114 links, the old one is stretched to become one roller longer than the new one, i.e. in the middle of two links/rollers. The old chain is the OE EK520-114 chain, and I got this bike second-hand when it is not even one year old but with 24xxx km on odometer, and now has 31xxx on it. So I think it is very likely that this chain had served for 31xxx km, which is not very bad for an O-ring chain I suppose.

By the way, I'd only cut 4 links from the new chain, made it a 520-116 chain; an extra 2 links from the factory setting. The reason is that I think the front sprocket is bigger so I might as well add a little extra to balance it, and I will still have plenty of room to stretch in the future. Does anyone think this a bad idea?

:thanx:

versysrear0830.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, that looks real nice and clean. What was the damage like to your pockets.
Thanks!

Well, it's not that much actually. I got the DID 520VM120G chain on sale here in Peter [email protected] for about $110 AUD and the SuperSprox I got it from Solomotoparts at a closeout for about $49 USD. The chain adjuster is $ 680 TWD(~22 USD/67 MYR), I've only seen it on market in Taiwan so far, but I was told that DMV is a German company, so there should be quite a few in Europe I suppose. Anyway, if you people won't be bothered reading this webpage in Chinese, here the link for the adjuster on Taiwan's Yahoo! auction site: http://tw.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/f16553077?u=gocheneder01

:D
 

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Your adjuster is already past the half-way point, but you should be ok to take up eventual wear slack. You have a bit more wheelbase, a tad more suspension travel and a bit softer (higher suspension travel to spring compression ratio), but not enough to feel the difference... You'd be closer to stock rear axle position with 114 links though.
 

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Your adjuster is already past the half-way point, but you should be ok to take up eventual wear slack. You have a bit more wheelbase, a tad more suspension travel and a bit softer (higher suspension travel to spring compression ratio), but not enough to feel the difference... You'd be closer to stock rear axle position with 114 links though.
Invader.

Nice point thought of on wheelbase and chain length. Almost slipped my mind that chain length will alert wheelbase , thus suspension.
Now the question will suspension need adjusting when doing chain adjusting.
:feedback:
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks Invader,

So, would you suggest 114 over 116? I personally wouldn't mind the longer wheelbase, but I'm not sure if this is good for rear suspension though.

A second thought on this came to me when looking at Bicyclebob's thread on 44t rear sprocket. I saw his adjuster had also past the mid-point of the range.
And I was thinking, if one choose to fit a smaller sprocket either front or rear, wouldn't one has to cut the chain shorter in order to keep the wheelbase as
long as the factory setting on a new bike? Espeicially on those very small rear sprockets like 43t or smaller.

One disadvatange I can think of for a 116 chain is that it adds a little notch on the rotating mass, which may slow the bike a littlebit.

Just a little more thinking, feedback would be great!
 

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mostly you will get a more stable handling not as quick steering bike. but I think only a pro would tell the difference, I doubt that you will have to change your shock settings at least the preload maybe your rebound at the most.
Again, I think you would have to be real sensitive to this change in your wheel base to feel you need to change your suspension settings.

Donn
 
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