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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installing the BackOff XP on a 2015-2017 (likely later and earlier Versys 1000

I have wanted to install this module for some time now. Skipped out of the studio today and got my inner mechanic on. I actually consider this a safety requirement, which is why I installed it.

Supplies (What I used)...

BackOff XP taillight modulator
Diagonal cutters
Wire Stripper
Crimpers
Dielectric grease
2 Female and 2 male spade connectors for 18-22AWG wire
2 butt connectors for 18-22AWG wire.
Acetone/Isopropyl Alcohol
Paper towels
Soldering iron
Tinning flux
Silver solder
Great light!

I attached pics to this below. I’m not sure how to add them inline. Sort of clunky board for doing that. The pics aren’t quite in order, but you’ll get the idea. When I get back in a few weeks I will upload these pics to my server and put them inline. That being said, if you have everything in your hand, the directions will be perfectly clear.

Below is a wiring schematic of the Versys 1000. You can see where the taillight wire is. It is a blue wire. This is the only wire you will be cutting.

Step 1. Turn your bike off. There is no need to disconnect the battery cable because we will be releasing the clip to the tail light power.

Step 2: Find the tail light connector in the right side tail area of the bike. Release the cable from the clip before the cable enters the taillight assembly and the white cable holder under to metal crossover. Thus will give you play room.

Step 4: Release the taillight plug from the cable.

Step 5. Carefully trim the wire covering back from the clip on the taillight cable that has been disconnected about 1.5” - 2”. I used my fly tying scissors. Small scissors make this easier. This will expose 3 wires.

Step 6. Snip the BLUE wire in the middle of the exposed area. Trim about 1/4” of the insulation off each end of the blue wire. Things get tight here and the wire is pretty soft. Be careful. We will be attaching spade connectors to both ends of the blue wires next. See pic below.

Step 7. Fill a male and female spade connector on the end where you will insert the blue wires with dielectric grease to protect your connection and crimp on 1 male and 1 female connector to the ends of the blue wire where you cut it. The idea behind this is that if the modulator fails for some reason, you can simply unplug it and join these 2 connectors together and have your regular tail light back. No drama.

Step 8. There are 2 options for the BackOff XP module, 1 and 2. I chose mode 2 because it gives 5 quick flashes the goes to a solid red light. Because of this, I will be using the RED wire to connect to the wire harness clip side of the connector and the RED WITH WHITE STRIPE wire to the tail light.

Step 9. We won’t use the yellow of white wire. Trim them back a bit, strip about 1/4” of insulation off the yellow and white wires. On each, put a butt connector and fill with dialectic grease before crimping on the butt connector. One crimped on, fill the other end of the butt connector with dielectric grease to seal it. This allows you to use these wires later if needed.

Step 10. On the RED wire, put a spade connector that’s to counterpart for the connector you added to the clip-side blue wire. Fill the connector where you will insert the red wire to the BackOff XP module with dielectric grease and crimp on the appropriate spade connector.

Step 11. On the RED WITH WHITE STRIPE wire, put a spade connector that’s to counterpart for the connector you added to the tail light-side blue wire. Fill the connector where you will insert the red with white line wire to the BackOff XP module with dielectric grease and crimp on the appropriate spade connector.

Step 12. Strip about an inch of insulation off the BLACK ground wire. Twist the wire together in a spiral to keep it together. Dip it in tinning flux and use a soldering iron to apply silver solder to your wire. I added it to a latch bolt for testing only. Don’t keep it there or the seat my rub it and break it. We will use the big bolt over where I installed the Back Off XP module under the right side of the crossmember.

Step 13. It’s time to assemble everything. Add the double-sided adhesive pad that comes with the module to the back of the Back Off XP module after wiping the module with acetone or alcohol. Wipe under the right side if the crossmember also to ensure a clean surface. See pic below.

Step 14. I decided to attach my Back Off XP module under the right side of frame crossmember. It fits here nicely, although it take a bit of fiddling to get your fingers in this area. You can do it. Once you get it in place, press it to the crossmember firmly to attach it. See pic below.

Step 15. Connection time. First, attach the ground wire to the bolt right above the module location. Re-secure the bolt with the tinned wire pinched under it. I will likely be butt-connecting this to a bit longer ground wire and secure it with a freshly-drilled ground bolt to the crossmember. This wire is a bit short for my liking. I will update this if I do.

Step 16. Attach the RED wire from the module to the clip-side BLUE wire connector. Attach the RED WITH WHITE LINE wire to the taillight side BLUE wire. Remember to completely fill dielectric grease in the female connectors before a connection is made. FILL each connector with dielectric grease to protect the joint and keep it waterproof.

Step 17. Turn your bike on and check out your work. You should see 5 quick flashes followed by a steady red brake light when either brake is activated.

Step 18. Enjoy a liquid beverage knowing you’re a bit safer for your effort!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve had too many occasions when some f***tard behind me is busy doing anything but looking. I got tired of flashing my brake lights manually constantly. Decided to give me a better chance around these people. We’re adding them to all our bikes now. Small investment for a safer ride. One of the people here said it was kind of annoying. Good! Just what I hoped for. 😋
 

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I went with an Admore Large Light Bar and the Admore Light Kit for my top case on my 09 V-650 at first had the light bar mounted to the bottom of the top case rack then later moved it to the top of the license plate holder. Since then i did the same with my FJR and Versys 1000.


IMG_0463 by weljo2001, on Flickr

Untitled by weljo2001, on Flickr

P1010446 by weljo2001, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Very cool. Haven’t seen that system before. Very interesting. Next, that’s my favorite Nugent song EVER! I tried to upload a video here of the pattern, but that wasn’t happening.

Cool setup.
 

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I don't like to splice the OEM harness, I ordered connectors and I made my own loop.
I installed the BackOFF module on my 2009 and I was able to "transplant" it on my 2015 without cutting the OEM harness.
It can go back to stock in 5 min.
 

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I added some PDG LED brake/tail and turn lights to my TUSK panniers on my '08. I've had truckers comment how much they LIKE my visibility!

#1 - everything OFF;
#2 - running lights;
#3 - brakes ON; and
#4 - turn-sigs ON and brakes ON.

For my '15 LT I added an LED bit (9 5/8" wide) for brake lights. Better, but NOT as good as on the '08.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No mistaking those taillights!
 

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Love the LED bar on the base rack plate. Can it do construction turn signal lighting, when using turn signals?
Here's the back-side of the packaging - so NO, brakes ONLY.

I did the extra lights IN CASE someone following when I'm 'loaded-up' w/ camping gear can't see my brake-lights due the 'overhang' from my [home-made] aluminum rack.

 

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I don't like to splice the OEM harness, I ordered connectors and I made my own loop.
I installed the BackOFF module on my 2009 and I was able to "transplant" it on my 2015 without cutting the OEM harness.
It can go back to stock in 5 min.
Did you use the same connectors for both bikes?
Share part numbers, and source please.
 

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Yes, same connectors, but moving from 2009 to 2015 2 wires were reversed, so I had to move them also to make it work.
Please take a look in my thread, I don't remember exactly the info, it was many years ago.
 

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Yes, same connectors, but moving from 2009 to 2015 2 wires were reversed, so I had to move them also to make it work.
Please take a look in my thread, I don't remember exactly the info, it was many years ago.
Thanks!
I'll look it up. I'd much rather not cutting factory quotes, as well.
I'm just getting to this party.
Better late, than never!
 
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