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Discussion Starter #1
I've determined (hopefully) that I need to install a new ignition switch on my 2008 Versys with a little over 27,000 miles. The accessory lights (small lights on either side of the low-beam) were sporadically working for about three months. If I turned the key to the left a little, the accessory lights would turn on. This past Friday, the accessory lights turned on consistently, but neither the low or high beam would. After numerous attempts, the low/high beam would work, but only once. I followed instructions on our forum, and removed/cleaned/re-installed the relay underneath the ignition switch yesterday. Same result -- low/high beam only worked once after numerous attempts.

I ordered a new ignition switch assembly from BikeBandit. The relay underneath the ignition switch cannot be ordered seperately. After inspecting how I'll need to remove the switch, I noticed "tamper resistant" bolts holding the switch on. I searched the internet for suggestions on how to remove the bolts. Most say to remove the triple clamp first, then drill-out the heads of the bolts. I really would prefer not too remove the triple clamp, as I/m not that confident in my skills. It appears I can remove the four allen screws holding the handlebar base. It appears once the base is removed, the heads of the tamper resistant bolts would be exposed. Can anyone confirm that is the case?

I welcome any direction or input on how to proceed.
 

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Thanks fasteddie. I also checked the service manual and found nothing. Hasn't anyone else attempted/needed to do this?
 

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im not 100% sure with the versys but with most bikes the ignition is held on by 2 bolts/ screws on the under side, ive always used a Allen or torks socket and a good extension and wobbler, but if you cant find a socket that fits it you might have to pull the top of the triple tree off, it really isnt that hard to do just take your time make sure you organize and write down were every part came off, all you have to do is undo the risers and loosen the fork bolts and the neck nut and use a rubber mallet (or 2x4) to knock it off just be careful of the barrings ,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks silviefox. There are two bolts that hold it on. However, the exposed part of the bolts are just rounded. They weren't designed to be removed from beneath for security reasons. Seems like I'll just need to take my time and remove parts from above. I appreciate your time.
 

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Thanks silviefox. There are two bolts that hold it on. However, the exposed part of the bolts are just rounded. They weren't designed to be removed from beneath for security reasons. Seems like I'll just need to take my time and remove parts from above. I appreciate your time.
you could try using a bold extractor on it
 

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I had to have my sons ignition switch in his Audi repaired it used blind bolts I used my Dremel moto tool to grind the heads of the bolts off and replaced them with normal headed bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, MaverickAus, I also plan on replacing the security bolts with regular bolts. Thanks for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Excellent info jdrocks. Thanks. I have a much better idea of how to proceed now. Like you said, it's more fussy than difficult. I agree I could have found something cheaper on eBay, but I wanted to simplify as much as possible. I have no other "vices" 😃. I'm going at it soon as the part arrives. Let you guys know how it turns out.
 

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you could also use a dermal to cut slots across the head of the bolt and use a large screwdriver to undo them
 

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I did my 1996 VW Golf ignition 2 years ago.
I had 2 security domed Bolts holding the steering column up. You have to drop the Steering column to get access to the back of the ignition. I just used pliers on them domed bolts and they just came out easy :)

Can you just replace the contact box on the back of the ignition and leave the key Barrel in place? That is if it is 2 parts. My 96 VW Golf is 2 parts.
Key Barrels do not fail but the contacts and levers of the switch box do.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Gigitt - It is two parts. I attempted to fix the problem by working on the relay/contact box underneath the ignition switch. I cleaned all contacts, elongated the contact springs, etc..., and the problem remained. I reviewed the schematic on BikeBandit, and discovered the relay/contact box is not sold seperately; it's part of the entire ignition switch assembly.

As someone previously indicated, I could have found the relay alone (or an entire ignition switch assembly for less $$) on eBay. Another link also showed how someone fashioned a generic relay to work with the existing ignition. But it's a fault of mine to remove any complications (in my mind) when attempting a repair I'm not totally comfortable with -- even if it means spending a bit more cash. As I'm writing this though, I realized I can simply install the NEW relay on the CURRENT ignition switch once it arrives. I'll have a spare ignition switch if ever needed, or I can sell it.
 
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