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Many years ago I learned to try to ALWAYS use an ohm-meter to check an apparent bad bulb OR fuse, as it would point me in a better direction IF (WHEN!) the bulb or fuse was NOT burned out.

The other day, just after I had spent some hours mounting my KOSO Apollo heated grips onto the GREEN HORNET TOO (my '15), I went for a ride to see how well they worked. As it was pretty chilly out, I wore my Tourmaster heated jacket liner as well, and when I turned the jacket to ON it warmed for about a block, then quit. My grips WERE warm, so I continued w/ the ride, reasonably comfortable, then got "into" the bike when I arrived back home.

I 'pulled' the 5A accessory fuse, looked at it - it APPEARED normal - then went for my ohm-meter to CONFIRM it. As soon as I applied the leads to the two "legs" of the fuse, my display showed an OPEN circuit, so I looked at the fuse very closely - STILL appeared OK - then re-checked w/ the meter, which told me it was NOT.

On extremely CLOSE inspection I noticed that there was a HAIRLINE crack in the fuse-wire, so it WAS NFG!!! I replaced w/ another GOOD fuse, plugged in the jacket and turned the key to ON - jacket heated up.

Had I NOT done the ohm-meter check I would PROBABLY have spent HOURS trying to find 'the problem' in a VG circuit....:(

Just a HEADS-UP for all you DIY mechanics....

:rolleyes:
 

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they got fuses now days that have a little led built into them that lights up when the fuse is blown :)
 

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I still have and use my Fluke 77 from 1990-to think of all the things I used it for back in the days now as you said blubs, fuses etc-and lets not forget battery's all sizes-lots of devices that have 4 AA or 4 AAA in series with out checking you might just change all the battery's but using the meter there might be only one bad can't tell you how many times this has happened
 
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