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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I followed the recommendations in this forum, and set the rpm for the hot engine close to 1500rpm. but the thing that I noticed is that the needle in the tachometer does not stay put, but oscillates, moving slightly up and down. In 300 it is stable, so I wonder if there is any issue there?
 

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I followed the recommendations in this forum, and set the rpm for the hot engine close to 1500rpm. but the thing that I noticed is that the needle in the tachometer does not stay put, but oscillates, moving slightly up and down. In 300 it is stable, so I wonder if there is any issue there?
It should be set to 1300 rpm... Have you ever vacuum synched your TB's, adjusted your valves, and replaced spark plugs? What mileage are you at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes, I did all these things. i have done 15k km on clock. setting on 1300rmp makes no difference in this respect.
 

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2016 Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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FI may fluctuate a bit as the ECU adjusts for inputs from various sensors. A throttle by wire system may fluctuate even more. I think they call that "hunting".... 100 rpm is nothing
 

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My Japan made 2007's tachometer does not fluctuate at 1,300 rpm idle... Are you sure it's not your engine idle speed that is unstable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am not sure. how can I know? I could connect the bike to my Healtech Diagnostic tool perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok, i connect the diagnostic tool and rmp was stable but the numbers on the tool and dashboard were way off.
 

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2011 Versys 650 and 2001 Bonneville
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I followed the recommendations in this forum, and set the rpm for the hot engine close to 1500rpm. but the thing that I noticed is that the needle in the tachometer does not stay put, but oscillates, moving slightly up and down. In 300 it is stable, so I wonder if there is any issue there?
There are a few vacuum hoses attached to the intake system - check to see if any of them may be cracked/leaking or perhaps were left or became unconnected somehow. My 2011 Versys idles dead smooth/stable at 800 rpm (when at operating temp.).
 

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There are a few vacuum hoses attached to the intake system - check to see if any of them may be cracked/leaking or perhaps were left or became unconnected somehow. My 2011 Versys idles dead smooth/stable at 800 rpm (when at operating temp.).
Why is your idle so low? Isn't is supposed to be at 1300 rpm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There are a few vacuum hoses attached to the intake system - check to see if any of them may be cracked/leaking or perhaps were left or became unconnected somehow. My 2011 Versys idles dead smooth/stable at 800 rpm (when at operating temp.).
thank you for the suggestion. I will double check. but since I got rid of the EVAP box, I removed all the vacuum lines and capped nipples nicely with good quality caps. Is it possible that the air box not fitted snugly could be a culprit?
 

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Why is your idle so low? Isn't is supposed to be at 1300 rpm?
YES, but a better idle is 1,500 rpm - keeps your alternator at a better output.
 

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2011 Versys 650 and 2001 Bonneville
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Agreed, but I was more curious as to why ovpete has his set at 800 rpm.
I happen to like a slower/lazier idle speed - 1,300 rpm (1,500 rpm) just seems way too busy sounding to me. I doubt the loss in alternator output at 800 rpm will negatively impact the battery charge unless I regularly spend a LOT of time idling in traffic. I live in an area where I never sit for more than a minute or so at a time at stop lights so the 800 rpm idle works for me. I used the same idle speed on my KLR650 and it was the same - very smooth and stable.
 

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My charging voltage with stock shunt R/R was a bit high at 14.65V~14.90V... It's now much more stable and always between 14.38V and 14.44V (14.44V @ 1,300 rpm idle speed) with Compufire series type R/R.
 
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