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Buy another Yuasa AGM battery, buy the cheaper one, the expensive one has more plates and a higher cranking amps, the problem is you don't need higher cranking amps, to get that they use thinner plates. At issue is vibration and shorts, plate failure. Which battery is more likely to fail the standard plate or higher plate count. The higher plate count is the answer, yes I had to think for 1 minute when I bought my battery for the 07, both batteries are the same physical size. The standard one has thicker plates and better insulation, plus it is cheaper.
Thank you!

I should have asked in previous...

My riding season is almost over.
Should I buy a new battery now or wait until just before next riding season?
 

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You have a 2017 , why would you need a battery, best spent money would be adding a series regulator. Since you have a 2017 you have two options .
 

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You have a 2017 , why would you need a battery, best spent money would be adding a series regulator. Since you have a 2017 you have two options .
If you are addressing me, my bike is a 2015.
The previous owner mentioned that last winter was the first she'd had to use a tender, so it may need a new battery soon.
That's what I'm basing my assumption on.
It's at least five years old, so in the window of end of life.
Should I just get a tender and connect, when sitting 8 weeks or longer, as opposed to replacing prior to a actual failure?
 

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If you are addressing me, my bike is a 2015.
The previous owner mentioned that last winter was the first she'd had to use a tender, so it may need a new battery soon.
That's what I'm basing my assumption on.
It's at least five years old, so in the window of end of life.
Should I just get a tender and connect, when sitting 8 weeks or longer, as opposed to replacing prior to a actual failure?
Ah, I went back many posts and saw 2017, so a 2015 with a shunt regulator, yes the battery will be near the end of it's life. I have a cheap 2 amp motorcycle charger.

During the winter I connect it for six hours every 6 to 8 weeks, I have a 12 volt outlet live all the time for my cycle compressor.

I have a 12 volt lighter plug that I connect to the charger, no need to lift the seat off to charge it ( FYI never leave a charger connected beyond the charge time, I have seen people disconnect the 120 VAC plug, assuming all is fine, many tenders discharge the battery at regular intervals to prevent sulfation, leaving the 12 volt side connected may give you a dead battery)

. One thing you can do, using a really small slot screw driver, look at the top center of the battery, there is a strip says do not remove, start at one end and pry up---well when you buy a new Yuasa battery that strip comes removed, the battery is pre-charged and six vials of electrolyte are shipped with it.f you have distilled water or de-ionized water , using a eye dropper, fill the water to a level about 1/4 inch above the plates, no more. You can do this before winter, and before your next ride, I did this this past winter, electrolyte was about 65%, I then connected by charger for 6 hours.. I expect to replace the battery on 2022.
 

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Ah, I went back many posts and saw 2017, so a 2015 with a shunt regulator, yes the battery will be near the end of it's life. I have a cheap 2 amp motorcycle charger. During the winter I connect it for six hours every 6 to 8 weeks, I have a 12 volt outlet live all the time for my cycle compressor, I have a 12 volt lighter plug that I connect to the charger, no need to lift the seat off. One thing you can do, using a really small slot screw driver, look at the top center of the battery, there is a strip says do not remove, start at one end and pry up---well when you buy a new Yuasa battery that strip comes removed, the battery is pre-charged and six vials of electrolyte are shipped with it.f you have distilled water or de-ionized water , using a eye dropper, fill the water to a level about 1/4 inch above the plates, no more. You can do this before winter, and before your next ride, I did this this past winter, electrolyte was about 65%, I then connected by charger for 6 hours.. I expect to replace the battery on 2022.
Thank you, for your help and willingness to share your knowledge!
 
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Hi everyone,
Can anyone share me some light on when to change the battery for versys 650? and how to identify that the battery is not working properly. Thanks
I have a 2016 Versys 650 with the factory battery in it, and it’s still working fine. If it starts to sound labored in starting, I’ll change it.
 

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FWIW - the OEM battery on my '15 V650 seems to be just fine. (83K kms - 51,6xx miles - on it.)
 

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Versys 650 (2020) - Yamaha XTE 600 (2001)
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Hi,
It's an old thread, but I'd like to share my experience about battery.

Battery was always a problem with my old XTE 600 - big single cylinder engine - as I don't use it everyday.
The battery only last 2-3 years before giving up !

Then, I bought a good quality battery maintainer ("optimate 4", but there are many other brands).
I strongly recommend this kind of device if you leave your motorcycle unused for more than a 1-2 weeks.
Since then, no battery issue anymore. :)
With the Covid lockdown, here in France, I also use it on my new Versys.

See you later
Emmanuel
 

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Always be prepared and carry a battery jump pack with you. Most of the times i had battery issues were out in the middle of BFE. I've used my jump pack for everything but my bike. :):)






Audew Jump Starter by weljo2001, on Flickr


Audew Jump Starter by weljo2001, on Flickr
 

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Versys 650 (2020) - Yamaha XTE 600 (2001)
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Hi Wedjo,
I did not know this kind of device.
Great !

An alternative solution could be to have a set of cables (AWG 10 ; 6 mm2. It's more than enough) to connect your motorcycle to a car. There is always a car nearby ! I will think about it for my next travel...

Unfortunately, sometimes, the battery is hopeless-fully dead (an internal lead bar is cut). It's not just discharged. In this case, there is nothing you can really do, except to change it.

See you later
Emmanuel
 

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I found a battery charger in the store for 19$ now 25% discount

EINHELL CE-BC 1M

Intelligent battery charger with microprocessor controller
-Multi-stage charging cycle,controlled/monitored by microprocessor
-Universal battery charger for various battery types
-For gel, AGM, zero and low maintenance lead-acid batteries
-Pushbutton for selecting between 6/12V vehicles
-Protection class IP65: Dustproof and protected against water jets
-Trickle charge function for a continuously ideal charge status
-For vehicles with long idle times (convertibles/motorcycles)
-Charging provides extended battery life
-El. protection against overcharging, short-circuit, swapped poles
-Fully insulated battery clamps-Suspension eyelet for mounting to the wall

 

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Hi Wedjo,
I did not know this kind of device.
Great !

An alternative solution could be to have a set of cables (AWG 10 ; 6 mm2. It's more than enough) to connect your motorcycle to a car. There is always a car nearby ! I will think about it for my next travel...

Unfortunately, sometimes, the battery is hopeless-fully dead (an internal lead bar is cut). It's not just discharged. In this case, there is nothing you can really do, except to change it.

See you later
Emmanuel

I bought a set of Powerlet Motorsports Jumper Cables back in 2010 to put on my Versys 650. Then on to my FJR after i sold the Versys then onto my 2016 V-1K. They are now sitting in a box since i sold my V-1K a few weeks back. I could jump some one with them or get a jump from a car or just hook my jump pack to them with out having to get to the battery.


Jumper cables......https://www.motorcycleid.com/powerlet/jump-start-kit-mpn-pkt-104.html


The part circled in blue is where i mounted the connector lead from the battery that the alligator clips section of the cables connect to.

P1010526 by weljo2001, on Flickr


P1010528 by weljo2001, on Flickr
 
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