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Wanted to know what can be doe to increase Mile Per Gallon. What add-ons will help to improve it or can be taken off to improve MPG. Like Exhaust,PCM or windshield.
 

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I suspect it has more to do with riding style, smoothness of acceleartion/deceleration, braking, conservation of energy through corners, rather than adding or removing a specific fittings, having said that changing the final gearin should make a difference, whether you choose to go up one sprocket on the front, or down one on the rear
 

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Healdem in on the right track. Run the tallest gearing you can live with and get rid of as much crap as you can - less weight allows the engine to works less to keep you going. An aftermarket pipe would probably cut 5-10 lbs of total weight. Adding a power commander would allow you to fine tune the fuel map. The problem is that most custom maps were designed to give you more power, not better mileage. The FI is lean as it comes from the factory, but could be optimized for fuel consumption by a good tuner.

Run the highest possible pressure in your tires (but no higher than max inflation pressure listed on the tire). Higher pressure gives you lower rolling resistance, but it will reduce grip, so keep that in mind until you get used to the changes.

Avoid barn-door like windshields, they cause too much drag. The OEM is not bad, but I think something a bit bigger could have an advantage if it reduces the air pressure on you.

And of course, nothing really matters if you don't help the bike get good mileage. As healdem points out, if you are smooth, resist the urge to accelerate harder than necessary, avoid starting and stopping (or even accelerating and decelerating) as much as possible and braking less by looking far ahead and adjusting your speed when you are in traffic it will all get you better mileage.

Gustavo
 

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The above posters are spot on.
Efficiency is all well and good but it means nothing compared to just using less energy in the first place.
 

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Bringing this back up.

Does anyone have any experience tuning a PCIII for mileage? I am planning longer trip out west next summer and would like to up my range a bit without carrying extra gas.

Could you get 5mpg more with an economy tune? 10mpg? I just have no experience with a PC and don't want to spend the money for box and tune to find out I get 1mpg or nothing.

Paul
 

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Efficiency is key. Your engine is most efficient, thus will get the most MPG's, when operated at max. torque RPM.
 

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I'm suspicious of the end return in fuel economy after the money spent on an after market exhaust system and fuel mapping computer. The algbra doesent work for me. Saving money on trips is more on how you eat and lodge.
 

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At wide open throttle (a bit leaner at smaller throttle opening/constant speeds), air/fuel ratio reaches a lean peak at 2800 rpm (14.5:1), then falls progressively richer to a dip at 4100 rpm (12.8:1), back up a bit (13.5:1 @ 4500-5000 rpm), then falls much richer to 5500 rpm (12.2:1) and up to redline (11.5:1). The wide torque band spans from 3800 rpm to 8100 with maximum at 6800 rpm, but some fuel can be saved by keeping it under 5200+ rpm as much as possible. With a PCIII, you could correct the fuel and power robbing overly rich ranges, just richen the lean 2800 rpm peak enough to cure the lean bog, and have it all at about 13.5:1 across the rev range... All other mentioned suggestions about riding habits and lowered drag make a difference. Even big hand guards can bog you down and affect your MPG. You may also note a slight difference with synthetic oil, a clean not over-oiled/less restrictive aftermarket air filter, and with 89 or 91 pump octane (RON+MON/2) gas instead of 87.
 

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Contractor: Thanks for all the useless ideas and wasting space.

Mountain Man: I, too am skeptical and that is the reason for asking. It would suck to drop $500+ for a box and dyno tune to get nothing.

Invader: So, how does it work with air fuel. If I drop it from 14.5 to 13.5 at 5500rpm, does that mean ~7% better mileage at that speed?

If so that is about 3-4mpg better at a 48mpg base mileage, not really enough to make it a gotta do thing as it gives only 15 extra miles per tank. Now a 10mpg difference is 50 miles extra and that would be totally worth it as it would be equal to having a gallon gas can strapped on back.

Paul
 

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In the end Contractor's suggestion is the only one which will significantly change your mileage.

Leaner isn't necessarily going to reduce your MPG if you end up having to open the throttle more to make the same amount of power.
Leaner will also cause your engine to run hotter.

If you get 5 more MPG and travel 1000 miles then you will have saved less than 2 gallons of fuel.

1.96540881 gallons of fuel, given your 48mpg figure.
If you really want to save gas get a 250 ninja or a maxi scooter.
 

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Leaner isn't necessarily going to reduce your MPG if you end up having to open the throttle more to make the same amount of power.
Leaner will also cause your engine to run hotter.
Too rich reduces power and takes more fuel. About 10% leaner than stoichometric 14.7:1 yields the best fuel efficiency, and about 10% richer than stoichometric (~13.2:1) yields the most torque and horsepower, which is desirable at wide open throttle. Richer than that wastes fuel and reduces power... In stock form, it only gets a bit too lean near 2800 rpm. You will save some fuel by keeping it closer to 5000 rpm or lower, and under 5500 rpm where it runs significantly and exceedingly richer up to redline. Higher speeds are also a factor.
 

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Invader: So, how does it work with air fuel. If I drop it from 14.5 to 13.5 at 5500rpm, does that mean ~7% better mileage at that speed?

If so that is about 3-4mpg better at a 48mpg base mileage, not really enough to make it a gotta do thing as it gives only 15 extra miles per tank. Now a 10mpg difference is 50 miles extra and that would be totally worth it as it would be equal to having a gallon gas can strapped on back.

Paul
You mean from a rich 12.2:1 to 13.5 @ 5500 rpm? Hard to say how much of a difference you'd see in mpg's. It'd be good to know how much leaner it runs when not at WOT, and how much adjustment the PC3 can make to smaller throttle opening settings... I don't feel the need for one. Just keep in mind that there's a significant difference from anything below 5000 rpm compared to 5500 rpm and up, the transition being from 5000 to 5500 (~13.5-12.2:1)...
 

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What about blipco's suggestion? TORQUE PEAK. Run it on the highway at 6800 RPM and your gas mileage will be as good as it gets. Try it.:goodidea:
 

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More than a few guys run the PCIII on this forum and perhaps they can chime in, but its my understanding that their mileage is less than without due to the richer mapping at low end...But the guys that run them are looking for performance not mileage...
 

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What about blipco's suggestion? TORQUE PEAK. Run it on the highway at 6800 RPM and your gas mileage will be as good as it gets. Try it.:goodidea:
:rolleyes: I like that subtle humour, Blip Co. :D
Good thing the Versys' torque band is wide and flat, strong from 3800 rpm to 8100 rpm. :thumb:
 

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Thanks Invader for the recognition, I really feel I'm somebody now. :yeahsmile::cheers: 53 deg. F in Boston right now. What's up with that?
 
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