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I'm taking a ride tomorrow and it will be pretty cool when we start out. I plan to use my Gerbing socks, gloves, and vest if it isn't too much load to add to the system. It would only be for a couple of hours and it will be connected directly to the battery via fused link. Less than 7 amps total draw.
 

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Stater Output/ Stator Testing/ Device load Ratings 2015

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1116674-post4.html I have modified my post in How To, which now gives available Watts above Base load=174 Watts, divide the Watts by 14.2 VDC=12.25 amp .
I have included currents for heated grips and Gerbing jacket in that thread, so you have lots, FYI at idle you have about 36 watts above base load, so when idling you will be below 14.2 volts.
 

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I have ridden my '08 V in the cold with electrically heated - jacket liner, pant liners, gloves, socks, grips, Garmin Zumo GPS, smaller LED fog lights and iphone - both with the original battery, and later with a Lithium battery, for 9 riding seasons - and I have experienced no problems.

But whenever I slow to 30 mph (passing through a small town) I do need to dial back the heat-troller to keep from getting too warm. But when traveling at 65 mph or so, there is a lot of "wind chill" effect, so I turn up the heat then. Fortunately the rpms are also up when riding at those speeds, and the electrical output is also up at those rpms.
 

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I'm taking a ride tomorrow and it will be pretty cool when we start out. I plan to use my Gerbing socks, gloves, and vest if it isn't too much load to add to the system. It would only be for a couple of hours and it will be connected directly to the battery via fused link. Less than 7 amps total draw.
I've found the best way to stay warm is heated jacket liner (with heated gloves), rather than a vest. It keeps arms warm, allows plugging in heated gloves to cuffs without the need for aux. wires, and heated collar eliminates need for balaclava to keep head and neck warm, it allows you to replace your insulated jacket liner with it unlike a vest and the cost difference with a vest is minimal. I wear this under an adv. style textile suit. Wind permeable jeans just don't work in cold weather. Waterproof motorcycle boots seem to keep my feet warm with just regular socks even in the coldest weather when the rest of my body is warm. When your core is warm you are able to maintain warm blood flow to the extremities.

A jacket liner on full draws uses about 100 watts. Heated gloves probably about 50. At idle this will draw more than the battery is charging but at cruising RPM should have enough power at 150 watts draw. I'm not sure what the exact level is that overloads the system but I would say you safely have enough power to power up to about 150 watts total accessory draw.

You can cut back on the power your jacket liner uses and get a more even warmth by wearing it under an insulated liner. Ironically most heated liners have no insulation. This allows you to turn down the heated liner and get a more even heat, at the cost of added bulk. That said, I usually replace my insulated liner with my heated liner unless it is close to freezing in which case I use both.

I love heated grips for their convenience but when it gets colder heated gloves provide a more even and comfortable heat and are more efficient in their use of power.
 

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Thanks for all of the replies. This makes it easy for me. Onewizard, thanks for that link it makes it easy.
 

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I find my body is warm enough in the Olympia MotoQuest Jacket with the liners and a poloneck t-shirt - I don't even wear a sweater

But my hands are another story - i use Oxford heated grips and Venture Heat 12V Heated Carbon Gloves. I bought them for the built-in temperature controller. I now see on Revzilla some people have had trouble with them in the rain, but I haven't (yet).
 

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...But my hands are another story....
Al - do you have any kind of handguards (barkbusters...) on your bike? I find that the plastic piece shields my hands enough to keep them warmer, and in fact, I remove the plastic once it gets warm to get airflow over my hands to cool them.
 

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I have ridden my '08 V in the cold with electrically heated - jacket liner, pant liners, gloves, socks, grips, Garmin Zumo GPS, smaller LED fog lights and iphone - both with the original battery, and later with a Lithium battery, for 9 riding seasons - and I have experienced no problems.

But whenever I slow to 30 mph (passing through a small town) I do need to dial back the heat-troller to keep from getting too warm. But when traveling at 65 mph or so, there is a lot of "wind chill" effect, so I turn up the heat then. Fortunately the rpms are also up when riding at those speeds, and the electrical output is also up at those rpms.
This is good to know. It sounds like just a pair of heated gloves and a phone will be no problem at all.
You use heated gloves and heated grips?
 

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Rode 216 miles Friday on my '08 (COLD weather!) w/ my heated jacket liner at 3 out of 5, LED bullet lites ON, and MANY LED turn, running, and brake lites. Voltage NEVER went below 13.8v DC.
 

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This is good to know. It sounds like just a pair of heated gloves and a phone will be no problem at all.
You use heated gloves and heated grips?
Yes, if it is really cold. But it feels like the heated gloves provide the majority of the heat.

I have Reynaud's Syndrome. When I'm out in the cold, that causes a nerve spasm that cuts of the flow of blood to my hands and feet. Then they get real cold and numb. My doctor told me that I could cure my issue by moving to Arizona. I chose electrically heated gear instead.
 

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Starter actual current, using hall effect clamp on and Fluke 189 , yellow case meter. The photo is for display purposes only, the current was 50 amp at 11.0VDC ( this is the actual voltage measured while producing 50 amp, no load voltage was 12.9 VDC)
I had to give thought as to how to do this with the least trouble, something to consider is carrying a say 6 inch piece of 10 gauge insulted wire, I jumped out the start relay allen head socket screws with my amprobe clamped around the wire.

 
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