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sooooooooo.... looking at the diagram, the headlight relay is always in series with 2 diodes and the starter relay coil. that would indicate that the light relay is a special monkey right? the lighting relay must operate at a lower voltage and yet current limit enough to keep the starter relay from coming on uncommanded, so I'm guessing it's not an off the shelf relay & think that is an important point. a test as described is ok, but prolly not a good idea to go full voltage too long.

1wizard.... ever test one on a variable power supply to see where it comes in? just curious. I see what they are doin.... any time you push start, it puts plus on both sides of the headlight coil & turns it off.

the Concours had weirder one than that... it used the starter's armature as a generator to engage the rely as it winds down after start, then the relay would latch with alternator power
In reality the Versys and every other Kawasaki bike with the 650 motor has what I call the same flaw, it was designed to pull in the headlight once alternator power was sufficient to charge and run the motor, I say flaw and it took me 2 hours to figure it out after FastEddie told me his light came on without his connection from the stator to headlight relay ( bypassed original connector).

So what happens is release of the start button on a fairly new battery produces a collapsing field on the start solenoid that is equal and opposite to the applied force, so ground is positive and the wire connected to the headlight relay becomes negative, this negative current goes through the coil through the blocking diode to the positive output of the relay through the headlights and then to ground, producing a very short burst of energy sufficient enogh to pull in the headlight relay, once in the relay latches.

I proved this and installed a free wheeling diode at the solenoid, my headlight relay is triggered by my brake light. Instructions are all over this site, some in burnt stators, I have started compiling under Polaris regulator install.
 

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hey Oz.... not helpin' man


1wizard... was just curious. there is about .7vdc drop on each diode right? so 2 diodes plus the start relay coil resistance means the voltage for the light relay will always be at least a couple volts below system. I know what you mean about intermittent duty relays, I see them in aircraft and they run as low as .5 ohms,,, doubt the one on the bike is that hot. at this point it's only an intellectual discussion for me & a chance to expand knowledge & learn the systems (I'm new to the V). all good
 

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Not being a narc but you didn't answer twowheeladdict question about checking the voltage with the engine running. The engine must be started or at least attempt to be started to get power to the light socket.
Did you check the headlight fuse? Much more likely to be blown than the relay.
First I want to say you were 100% correct in checking the voltage if it was some other inmate, however please follow this thread below and it will become clearer why I was focused strictly on the lighting circuit http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ther-electrical-gremlin.html?highlight=stator
:surprise:

Well I don't want to be a narc but if you read what I posted I didn't say anything about testing the bloody relay. And if you are so smart why don't you go fix his bike for him.
Regards the one who doesn't understand things like you do.

>:)
And I can understand and accept what you posted, what you don't know is I have a 07 that I need to do a valve shim and throttle body sync on, and a number of other things so I can sell it, while my 2015 sits beside it waiting to get the side and top cases, highway pegs, lowering link, thermo-Bob , heads up voltage monitor, the good news is I got my Oxford heated grips mounted and my Barkbuster Storm hand guards mounted, **so I don't mind helping on the forum, but I am pressed for time , so yes I was a little short and could have done a better job in communication

No worries mate, I'll just read **** from now on and never try to help ever again.
That is the opposite of what I want and I am sure others feel the same way, this forum is great because we all share our knowledge and pitch in at a moments notice. So my plan is to come back to OZ probably at the end of the year, staying 3 months, a matter of planning when the rainy season begins, which could be difficult as yesterday it was 36'C in Eildon , when it should be in the mid 20's.
Looking at driving the Black Spur, this time on a bike, have a dirt bike waiting, but need to look for bike shops near Melbourne that rent bikes.

So if you haven't been able to read between the lines:sorry:

So I am a old fart >:) so for me it could be taken the way I did, until I hear different from the OP-**and just so people don't think I am making this up, I have posted some pics---see you later, need to get away:type: and back to hands on** you guys are on your own for the rest of the day:x be good ---onewizard out0:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Cmon, guys, Maverick was kidding. I laughed out loud. Unfortunately, tone of voice doesn't come through in text. He complimented wizard for his knowledge!

Maverick's post #6 in this thread reminds me of the time when a coworker walked up to me and complained that the printer didn't work. "Is it on?" I asked -- and people gave me sh*t for that for years. But of course that's the right question: is it plugged in, is it on? Someday, someone will read this thread because the headlight isn't on when the key is switched on but before the bike is started.
 

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I have a simple fix, and Thank You for following my direction, plus you save over $100...
Re-edit: A few minutes later I tried again and the light didn't work. I gently bent the connector between the alternator and regulator and, voila, the lights came on. So that's it -- the burned-out stator-side connector causes a bad connection, resulting in a loss of current to the relay. And I had thought the culprit was the relay.
Thank you gentlemen. Reading through an old thread saved my bacon before starting a two week tour without working headlights.

I installed an RM Stator in 2018 after a roadside failure in Quebec city Electrickery and the Versys Stator

Early this spring I had an issue with the bike not charging again, but it was my own darned fault: 2020 The Cedar Dunes Ride

Then my headlights stopped working and I suffered a couple of other minor possibly related issues. See the "UPDATE" section at the bottom of this post: Electrickery and the Versys Stator

Summary, bad connection at the stator connector. Repaired.

Thanks again guys!

Cheers!

180240
 

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First it would be nice if you did a post like your link in ;





Well two things, do you have a couple close up photos of Ricks stator? They last claimed to be Delta Wound, I would never use Rick's or RMstator unless I already had a series regulator installed. I am leaning towards electrosport , several good reviews by members and it is machine wound Delta connected.


 
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