Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After buying my '09 Versys in Sacramento, CA I took it down Hwy 1 to LA on an awesome trip. It was then shipped to Costa Rica where I've been daily riding it since ~6000km. Although I haven't tried many other bikes I feel the Versys offers a great combination between weight, power, price and handling so I'd keep it forever but... I'm going to have to sell to put the money into my business.

So, I know it's not nice to come into the forum just asking for help but I'd greatly appreciate help with a technical issue that's blocking the sale. Something's not right with the charging system and even after reading the whole Burnt Stators thread I can't pinpoint it because judging from all the tests normally carried out it could be several things. Thanks in advance for any help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Well I think I just fixed it and although it's a little embarrassing here it is in case it helps someone else

The buyer didn't go ahead with the deal because we took it to a local shop for inspection and the charging system voltage was a little low (high 11s to 13 volts) so I started suspecting the usual things: the rotor because the previous owner had dropped it on that side, the stator because the service manual test measured 0.5 Ohms (although VAC was good at ~54V) and the regulator. So I removed the cover for inspection and both rotor and stator looked ok. In page 7 of the burnt stators thread onewizard confirmed that most ohmeters aren't precise enough to carry out the service manual test so I didn't really have a reason to suspect the stator anymore. The battery was a little low (12.2V) but I had it checked and it was ok. The regulator passed the continuity test (didn't do the other tests because I didn't have enough batteries). Checked the chassis ground by the tail lights and it needed a little cleaning up but nothing that would make a big difference.

And then my brain finally turned on. Idle speed was at ~1000 rpms. The mechanic had said that was ok so I forgot about it. Idle speed should be of course 1300 +/-50 rpms per the service manual and as soon as I adjusted it the system voltage went up to 14.1. Now it's hovering between 12.8 (with high beams, hazards and rad fan on) and 14.1 V, assuming that's an acceptable range. The strange thing was that even when set at the lower idle (1000) it would still have low voltage at the higher rpms (<3000).

Hope that can save someone as much time as it took me to figure out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
What's riding/living in Costa Rica like?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,952 Posts
And then my brain finally turned on. Idle speed was at ~1000 rpms. The mechanic had said that was ok so I forgot about it. Idle speed should be of course 1300 +/-50 rpms per the service manual and as soon as I adjusted it the system voltage went up to 14.1. Now it's hovering between 12.8 (with high beams, hazards and rad fan on) and 14.1 V, assuming that's an acceptable range. The strange thing was that even when set at the lower idle (1000) it would still have low voltage at the higher rpms (<3000).

Hope that can save someone as much time as it took me to figure out
FWIW - I put an LED volt-meter into my '08's dash (along w/ an LED that indicates charge by changing color, but NOT as easy to read as the HEADS-UP LED in my '15), and on my rides I USUALLY show 14.1v at idle (1350+-), but around 13.6 to 13.8 while riding. The LED V-meter I had on my '09 under-read, so I'm expecting that this is doing the same thing, altho' it IS a different brand.

:goodluck:
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top