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Discussion Starter #1
I am having a heck of a time removing the valve cover on my Mk-3, 2016 V650! What is the secret to this blasted thing???

I've got the throttle cables out of their guides and pulled away and the cover bolts removed, plus I removed or unplugged everything that the SM recommended and secured them out of the way. I have jiggled that **** thing every which way and cannot get it to come out. Even managed to loosen one of the dowels in the process but managed to grab it with a magnet before it went into the engine's nether regions.

Please tell me your method of getting the cover off of your gen 3. I'm dead in the water and can go no further with a valve lash check until I get this resolved. It looks like the main thing stopping it is on the right hand side is where a retainer secures the brake lines to a metal tab on the frame. At the front, the brake lines themselves get in the way. I have seen no mention of having to remove this retainer on anything I've read so far.

Please be aware that I'm dealing with a Gen-3. I say this because from what I've read, the cover is easier to get off of earlier generations.

The picture shows where I'm at right now. The arrow points to the clamp/retainer that I mentioned. Nothing is mentioned in the SM about removing it before taking off the valve cover.

 

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I seem to remember that the valve cover needs to be lifted and moved towards the left of the motor.... but am not 100% sure how I did it.

Once the valve cover is lifted horizontally and touches that retainer on the right, lower the left side of the cover and I believe that the right side will come up sliding past the left side of the retainer.
 

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I am having a heck of a time removing the valve cover on my Mk-3, 2016 V650! What is the secret to this blasted thing???

I've got the throttle cables out of their guides and pulled away and the cover bolts removed, plus I removed or unplugged everything that the SM recommended and secured them out of the way. I have jiggled that **** thing every which way and cannot get it to come out. Even managed to loosen one of the dowels in the process but managed to grab it with a magnet before it went into the engine's nether regions.

Please tell me your method of getting the cover off of your gen 3. I'm dead in the water and can go no further with a valve lash check until I get this resolved. It looks like the main thing stopping it is on the right hand side is where a retainer secures the brake lines to a metal tab on the frame. At the front, the brake lines themselves get in the way. I have seen no mention of having to remove this retainer on anything I've read so far.

Please be aware that I'm dealing with a Gen-3. I say this because from what I've read, the cover is easier to get off of earlier generations.

The picture shows where I'm at right now. The arrow points to the clamp/retainer that I mentioned. Nothing is mentioned in the SM about removing it before taking off the valve cover.

I have a post on my MK-3 2015. The very first thing is remove your throttle bodies. I will post a link. You may also need some foot long 100 LB wire ties. depending how hard your air box was to remove.

Here is the link
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/133514-valve-shim-vacuum-sync-2015-650abs-onewizard.html



Be extremely careful , I posted two photos showing some sleeves that locate the cam caps there are similar in the valve cover, very easy to fall into the engine while lifting the cover off, also the same applies while removing the cam caps. Everything is precision machined and putting together it needs to go together square, no forcing .

 

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I just looked at the valve-cover on my '15 V650 - I don't remember anything about doing anything w/ THAT "brake-line-holder", and I re-read my 'notes' (I've done TWO valve-checks on it), so I have to assume that it wasn't a problem, and I didn't touch it.

I do remove my throttle-bodies tho', and that makes the job MUCH easier!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have a post on my MK-3 2015. The very first thing is remove your throttle bodies.
Might do that next time. I thought about it but getting to those little allen head bolts did not look easy.

Is there an article on throttle body removal on the site? Hard to imagine getting in there to tighten it back up on installation.


You may also need some foot long 100 LB wire ties. depending how hard your air box was to remove.
The air box just took a bit of wiggling to get it off.



Be extremely careful , I posted two photos showing some sleeves that locate the cam caps there are similar in the valve cover, very easy to fall into the engine while lifting the cover off, also the same applies while removing the cam caps. Everything is precision machined and putting together it needs to go together square, no forcing .
I FINALLY got the cover off about an hour ago. Had to loosen and swing the rubber sleeve away that goes over the metal tab (red arrow in my
picture in first post).

In the process of removing the valve covers, both sleeves came out before I got it off. I got lucky as both were easy to get to with a magnet.
***********

Did my measurements and and found the intakes to be just fine. One exhaust was right at the lower end at .0087 and the other was a bit below spec at about .0083 to 84. I'm thinking about letting them be and just checking again in another 15k miles. The tight one is only .0004" off so think I'll let it ride. I'd love to get them both into middle of the range but I've never done a shim swap and feel really uneasy about removing the cams. The Versys service manual is not as clear on procedure as the ones for the Hondas I've owned in the past.

Wish there was a good, thorough youtube video showing each step clearly and potential pitfalls.

***
I saw your note about 1/T vs 1lT and am a bit confused. On page 2-26, are you saying to go by the diagram showing 1lT and that 1/T in the printed column on the left is a misprint?.

I wound up just rotating the crank shaft until the lobes for each cylinder were pointed away from each other, then measuring. The 1/T or 1lT (or 2/T 2lT) didn't seem to position any of the lobes correctly for gap measurement.
 

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Might do that next time. I thought about it but getting to those little allen head bolts did not look easy.

Is there an article on throttle body removal on the site? Hard to imagine getting in there to tighten it back up on installation.




The air box just took a bit of wiggling to get it off.





I FINALLY got the cover off about an hour ago. Had to loosen and swing the rubber sleeve away that goes over the metal tab (red arrow in my
picture in first post).

In the process of removing the valve covers, both sleeves came out before I got it off. I got lucky as both were easy to get to with a magnet.
***********

Did my measurements and and found the intakes to be just fine. One exhaust was right at the lower end at .0087 and the other was a bit below spec at about .0083 to 84. I'm thinking about letting them be and just checking again in another 15k miles. The tight one is only .0004" off so think I'll let it ride. I'd love to get them both into middle of the range but I've never done a shim swap and feel really uneasy about removing the cams. The Versys service manual is not as clear on procedure as the ones for the Hondas I've owned in the past.

Wish there was a good, thorough youtube video showing each step clearly and potential pitfalls.

***
I saw your note about 1/T vs 1lT and am a bit confused. On page 2-26, are you saying to go by the diagram showing 1lT and that 1/T in the printed column on the left is a misprint?.

I wound up just rotating the crank shaft until the lobes for each cylinder were pointed away from each other, then measuring. The 1/T or 1lT (or 2/T 2lT) didn't seem to position any of the lobes correctly for gap measurement.
The TB come off with one gear clamp loosening, same as air box.
As to the position, I have photos in that thread along with text.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The TB come off with one gear clamp loosening, same as air box.
As to the position, I have photos in that thread along with text.
1. TB - thanks. Wish I had known that before starting this.

2. Position - I just read a post that solved the confusion for me. Turn the crank to the 1lT position. If the #1 cylinder cams are not all pointing up and away from each other, turn the crank again until the 1lT comes back around. At that point, all 4 cylinder #1 cam lobes are in the correct position for measuring (i.e., TDC). The marks on the cam gears at at that point are also parallel with the head and facing away from each other. Didn't note the position of the marks when I did cylinder #2.

When I read the post mentioned above, it reminded me that with all my Honda's (7 over the last 20 years), the service manual mentioned rotating the crank again to get to the right position for measuring.

In my experience, Honda's service manuals are better written and illustrated than Kawasaki's.

Thanks for the help onewizard.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, thanks for the heads up on the SM error on page 2-26.

I X'ed out 1/T and 2/T and replaced them with the correct symbols 1lT and 2lT. This matches the illustration at the top of pg. 2-26.
 

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1. TB - thanks. Wish I had known that before starting this.

2. Position - I just read a post that solved the confusion for me. Turn the crank to the 1lT position. If the #1 cylinder cams are not all pointing up and away from each other, turn the crank again until the 1lT comes back around. At that point, all 4 cylinder #1 cam lobes are in the correct position for measuring (i.e., TDC). The marks on the cam gears at at that point are also parallel with the head and facing away from each other. Didn't note the position of the marks when I did cylinder #2.

When I read the post mentioned above, it reminded me that with all my Honda's (7 over the last 20 years), the service manual mentioned rotating the crank again to get to the right position for measuring.

In my experience, Honda's service manuals are better written and illustrated than Kawasaki's.

Thanks for the help onewizard.
Note my breaker bar that is held in place with a bungee, the position is where the timing marks are aligned, you don't want to be turning the crank with the cam chain off by a link. Also when putting the cam chain tensioner back in, note my comment of using the breaker bar to advance the chain clockwise about two degrees this puts chain slack on the tensioner side, so you can turn the tensioner in by hand, Note Fast Eddie had his neighbor help him, I have done this twice now, Eddie probably 7 times, but he is getting forgetful>:)
 

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...Did my measurements and and found the intakes to be just fine. One exhaust was right at the lower end at .0087 and the other was a bit below spec at about .0083 to 84. I'm thinking about letting them be and just checking again in another 15k miles. The tight one is only .0004" off so think I'll let it ride. I'd love to get them both into middle of the range but I've never done a shim swap and feel really uneasy about removing the cams....
Suggest you do NOT do what you wrote - the valves WILL tighten so you might end up w/ an inoperative engine by starting w/ valves ALREADY TOO tight.

Look thru the posts again - I have NEVER removed the cams! I just loosen things, then use a magnet to pull the bucket AND THE SHIM while holding the end of the cam UP. Then I measure the shim, and using 'garnet cloth' or sandpaper, I remove whatever amount that then brings me to the WIDE end of the clearance range. For instance: intakes - I work to being as close as possible to .0083"; exhausts - I work to being as close as possible to .0122".

:goodluck:

Then I put the shim onto its valve into the circular place for it, and slide the 'bucket' over it, and down.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Look thru the posts again - I have NEVER removed the cams! I just loosen things, then use a magnet to pull the bucket AND THE SHIM while holding the end of the cam UP.

This sounds good. Don't recall recall reading that.

When you say you loosen things up, do you mean that you remove or loosen the cam chain tensioner so the that the chain is loose? That's the only way I could imagine having enough play to be able to scoot the cams over to get to the buckets.

How do you do the buckets nearest the cam gear? Seems like you wouldn't be able to swing the cams far enough away to get to them.
 

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...When you say you loosen things up, do you mean that you remove or loosen the cam chain tensioner so the that the chain is loose?....
YES - the SERVICE MANUAL says to remove the cam chain tensioner which I DO (AND the cams, but I DO NOT - I just lift them from the left-end and use a magnet to 'capture' the bucket AND shim), which allows the required movement.

...How do you do the buckets nearest the cam gear? Seems like you wouldn't be able to swing the cams far enough away to get to them....
NEVER been a problem, so far - they 'lift' enough (on THREE V650s - an '08, an '09 and a '15) altho' sometimes it's difficult re-installing the tensioner later. (Check out a post by "onewizard" w/ his suggestions)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
YES - the SERVICE MANUAL says to remove the cam chain tensioner which I DO (AND the cams, but I DO NOT - I just lift them from the left-end and use a magnet to 'capture' the bucket AND shim), which allows the required movement.



NEVER been a problem, so far - they 'lift' enough (on THREE V650s - an '08, an '09 and a '15) altho' sometimes it's difficult re-installing the tensioner later. (Check out a post by "onewizard" w/ his suggestions)
Thanks Eddie.

Though I buttoned everything back up already, I've decided to just go ahead and do the adjustment during MC riding downtime in November. I was going to hold off for another 10k miles but guess I've got to just go ahead and make my first leap into the valve adjustment unknown. Over the last 20 years, I always did my own valve checks but because my Hondas never needed adjusting, I never had to cross that river. First time for everything.
 

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...I was going to hold off for another 10k miles but guess I've got to just go ahead and make my first leap into the valve adjustment unknown....
Several of us have checked our valves early and found some already at the TIGHT end, so we tend to recommend checking and adjusting to the WIDER end of the recommendations earlier than the 'book' says to....

:goodluck:
 
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