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Discussion Starter #1
Just received my Kaoko Throttle lock and when I went to remove the bar end weight I stripped the hex bolt. The Grabit didn't help. Any ideas?
 

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Go to the harware store and get a helicoil and you'll be all set.
The hex key is stripped, not the threads.

No idea on how you tripped that though, it was very tight removing mine.
 

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The hex is 6MM. Buy a inexpensive 7MM hex. Using a hand file or small grinder put a slight taper on the leading edges of the hex. Drive the hex into the stripped hole with a hammer. If it wedges in tight heat the bar end with a heat gun to soften the thread locker that is applied at the factory and attempt to remove the bolt.
You might just get lucky. If not you are SOL.
 

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For some ungodly reason Kawasaki thought it best to install the hex bolts in the bar end weights with red loctite.... Blue would have been more than sufficient. I installed Barkbusters today and was lucky enough to get both bolts out.

Sorry, can't help much with your problem though...

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got that son of a bitch out......back to work now. I'll explain later!
 

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The hex is 6MM. Buy a inexpensive 7MM hex. Using a hand file or small grinder put a slight taper on the leading edges of the hex. Drive the hex into the stripped hole with a hammer. If it wedges in tight heat the bar end with a heat gun to soften the thread locker that is applied at the factory and attempt to remove the bolt.
You might just get lucky. If not you are SOL.
Yes, the only other thing you can do is take it to someone that has brasing tips and torches, what you need to do is be a part of a team, one person heats the allen head cap screw red hot , you need to do this in 1 minute or less, the other person or you needs to have a wet rag in hand, wait about 1 minute and quench the bolt , this does two things , it helps, barley but it does help to harden the head, the very next thing you need to do is put your hex wrench in and try and turn this out. The purpose of the heat is to break the locktite down.

A third option that I have had considerable luck with is to go to your neares hardware and buy a hammer type impact driver, also get a coupling nut that closely matches the 6 to 7 mm, instead of buying a expensive allen head socket, use a metric socket or inch which ever fits the coupling nut and then fit the other end of the nut as previously described by filing etc.

To be clear, this impact driver is one that you twist with your left hand and hit with a hammer, I have removed Forklift grade ten bolts with this, should be less than $20, and comes with a 1/2 inch drive tip and various screwdriver tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's how it came out......I got lucky,

Took a 1/4" cobalt drill bit thinking I could drill the top off the bolt, then I should be able to pull the bar end weight off and use vice grips to unscrew the bolt. Well, things never go as planned. I preceded to drill the top off, got so hot the cobalt drill bit broke, looked inside the bar end weight and everything was rounded smooth in a concaved fashion. While everything was hot, I took a large screwdriver and it was just the right size to fit tight into my newly rounded hole and I was able to get enough leverage to unscrew the bolt. It was so hot it loosened the red loctite right up.

Now I can't get the Kaoko throttle lock to work properly, it's either too tight or too loose. I'm tired and will try and get it working tomorrow.
 

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Here's how it came out......I got lucky, ....

Now I can't get the Kaoko throttle lock to work properly, it's either too tight or too loose. I'm tired and will try and get it working tomorrow.
WELD the buggar!
 

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Wow. Hatchet in one hand and hammer in the other mentality here. Scary.
Reminds me of the Harley and Triumph dealer in Edmonton when I was a kid.

Al would say: "I can fix anything, just get me a bigger hammer and screwdriver!" :p
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow. Hatchet in one hand and hammer in the other mentality here. Scary.
What scares you from using your intellectual thoughts to remove a stuck bolt?

If NASA called and wanted me to fix the Low Pressure Oxidizer Turbopump (LPOTP) which is an axial-flow pump driven by a six-stage turbine powered by liquid oxygen.......I'd pass, but a stuck bolt......I'll figure it out!:D
 

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What scares you from using your intellectual thoughts to remove a stuck bolt?

If NASA called and wanted me to fix the Low Pressure Oxidizer Turbopump (LPOTP) which is an axial-flow pump driven by a six-stage turbine powered by liquid oxygen.......I'd pass, but a stuck bolt......I'll figure it out!:D

This is the comment I was reffering to.


"The hex is 6MM. Buy a inexpensive 7MM hex. Using a hand file or small grinder put a slight taper on the leading edges of the hex. Drive the hex into the stripped hole with a hammer. If it wedges in tight heat the bar end with a heat gun to soften the thread locker that is applied at the factory and attempt to remove the bolt.
You might just get lucky. If not you are SOL."


This would have worked. I used some like this for my footsets when I put my new exhaust on.



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I don't think that's a bad way to do it. There are many ways to deal with a stuck bolt. I put Barkbusters on and got the bolts out ok, surprised by the red loctite. Heat will soften loctite. You could drill the head off the bolt or use the ez outs as you pictured.
 
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