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Supply chain issues (because this bike needs more issues!) Connectors arrived, posi-tap is enrolee, BUT just got an email from Princess that the relay is discontinued. Called them, every store is out. Of course there are more of these, but wanted to check with you, Oh wise one, before ordering...he is one link I found on Amazon...
ARTGEAR JD1914 12V 40A Car Relay with Harness Sockets, 5 Pin SPDT Relay with Color-labeled Wires for Automotive Truck Van Motorcycle Boat (Pack of 2)

Brand: ARTGEAR
Would this do?
Thanks. You can imagine how I feel about this latest news......sigh.
 

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Supply chain issues (because this bike needs more issues!) Connectors arrived, posi-tap is enrolee, BUT just got an email from Princess that the relay is discontinued. Called them, every store is out. Of course there are more of these, but wanted to check with you, Oh wise one, before ordering...he is one link I found on Amazon...
ARTGEAR JD1914 12V 40A Car Relay with Harness Sockets, 5 Pin SPDT Relay with Color-labeled Wires for Automotive Truck Van Motorcycle Boat (Pack of 2)

Brand: ARTGEAR
Would this do?
Thanks. You can imagine how I feel about this latest news......sigh.
ref=asc_df_B078T3RC5T
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
That will work-wait about 10 minutes-will look:
best price and from Amazon .CA below is 5 pack roughly $5 each complete and $1 cheaper

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Supply chain issues (because this bike needs more issues!) Connectors arrived, posi-tap is enrolee, BUT just got an email from Princess that the relay is discontinued. Called them, every store is out. Of course there are more of these, but wanted to check with you, Oh wise one, before ordering...he is one link I found on Amazon...
ARTGEAR JD1914 12V 40A Car Relay with Harness Sockets, 5 Pin SPDT Relay with Color-labeled Wires for Automotive Truck Van Motorcycle Boat (Pack of 2)

Brand: ARTGEAR
Would this do?
Thanks. You can imagine how I feel about this latest news......sigh.
HO HO HO Merry Christmas
 

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Ok- my aspiration to fix this bike in 2021 is dead, so new years resolution is to fix it before the snow melts in 2022. I finally have received all the needed parts, have been re-reading and I just want to double check "the plan" before mutilating the bike. We both know that if I can mess this up, I will!

(NOTE: All wire colors and positions are the same as the ones you have listed in the instructions.) So, as I understand it:
I am to cut Grey #3, Black #2, (tape ends of black) and Blue with yellow tracer #1 (a half inch from the 6 pin socket)
Then using the white barrier block things (do I chop one piece off at a time?) twist the ends of #85 (black) and #30 (blue) together, shove them in one side of that thing and put the wire from pin #3 (grey) in the other end. screw the plate down and wrap it in electrical tape?
Do the same thing with #87 (yellow) to connect with #1 pin (blue with yellow)

Then - Do NOT cut wire from pin #11 (yellow with red tracer) from the 10 pin socket- but use the POSI TAP to connect #86(white) about 1.5 inches away from the box.
IF the above is correct, two quick questions: what about the red wire? Is that just extra? And in the photo for the barrier block, the wires have pins on the end- do I need those or am I just using twisted wire in there?
I await your comments, oh wise one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok- my aspiration to fix this bike in 2021 is dead, so new years resolution is to fix it before the snow melts in 2022. I finally have received all the needed parts, have been re-reading and I just want to double check "the plan" before mutilating the bike. We both know that if I can mess this up, I will!

(NOTE: All wire colors and positions are the same as the ones you have listed in the instructions.) So, as I understand it:
I am to cut Grey #3, Black #2, (tape ends of black) and Blue with yellow tracer #1 (a half inch from the 6 pin socket)
Then using the white barrier block things (do I chop one piece off at a time?) twist the ends of #85 (black) and #30 (blue) together, shove them in one side of that thing and put the wire from pin #3 (grey) in the other end. screw the plate down and wrap it in electrical tape?
Do the same thing with #87 (yellow) to connect with #1 pin (blue with yellow)

Then - Do NOT cut wire from pin #11 (yellow with red tracer) from the 10 pin socket- but use the POSI TAP to connect #86(white) about 1.5 inches away from the box.
IF the above is correct, two quick questions: what about the red wire? Is that just extra? And in the photo for the barrier block, the wires have pins on the end- do I need those or am I just using twisted wire in there?
I await your comments, oh wise one!
Please supply close up photos of the barrier block, both sides, is this screw or pressure terminals. As to gray 3, I would just as soon use a positap and connect the black wire from the relay block which you could cut 2 inches back from the socket and using the positap of Gray pin 3. The current through the black wire is only seconds long, and less than 0.060 of a amp.
 

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If I use posi-tap with the cut black wire to grey 3, do I then not cut grey 3? Do I use another posi-tap to connect #85 and #30 to grey three? It is after the recommended electrical discussion hour, so ignore this if it does not make sense!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If I use posi-tap with the cut black wire to grey 3, do I then not cut grey 3? Do I use another posi-tap to connect #85 and #30 to grey three? It is after the recommended electrical discussion hour, so ignore this if it does not make sense!
Later today
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If I use posi-tap with the cut black wire to grey 3, do I then not cut grey 3? Do I use another posi-tap to connect #85 and #30 to grey three? It is after the recommended electrical discussion hour, so ignore this if it does not make sense!
we need to backup here, I was up until 4AM answering some technical posts. What happened to the external relay we were going to use?
If you have it give me the colours of the wires, and the numbers they go to on the relay. 85 ; 86; 30 ; 87 ; 87A
 

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we need to backup here, I was up until 4AM answering some technical posts. What happened to the external relay we were going to use?
If you have it give me the colours of the wires, and the numbers they go to on the relay. 85 ; 86; 30 ; 87 ; 87A
NO rush on this, I am probably gone for three days tomorrow, and it is a blizzard out, so rest up. I was working from the instructions from post #3, just down from the top. I have the relay and colours are same as you listed in the instructions, which are:
85- Black
86-White
30- Blue
87-Yellow
87a-Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
FYI anyone coming across this post, this is a work around for a failed headlight relay, it is one of the most often failures, some have replaced the relay on the PC board. That relay has a 20 amp rating, I can tell you that is a resistive rating. The after market relay can be purchased for $5 including socket, with a 40 amp rating ,expect it to last a long time. If it fails again, a quick change out by unplugging and putting a new one in, found all over the world. One thing, it is not triggered by the alternator so a voltage display of some sort is recommended. I prefer the "Neat little voltmeter"






Established colour code on the aftermarket relay:
86-White
85-Black
87-Yellow
87a-Red
30-Blue


This is going to be the simple-no auxiliary lighting, keying on brings the headlight on, pushing the start button turns it off during the duration of starting.

First, as long as the key is off, you could proceed, for those guys that drop stuff, accidentally drop a wrench across the battery positive-do yourself a favor. disconnect the positive terminal of the battery, put a rag over the battery post- your good to go.

The following wires get cut from the Kawasaki harness that plugs into the relay box-this is the six pin plug-consider are you ever going to reverse this wiring, if that is a possibility, leave about a 1/2 inch of wire from the plug for either but splice or solder, if you never intend to, you can cut right at the plug.-make sure you are cutting the right wires:
  • Grey wire from pin #3
  • Blue wire with yellow tracer from pin #1
Black wire can be left as is on pin 2.
  • -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • the new relay's wires Black ( 85) and Blue (30) goes to the terminal lock under one screw, strip about 3/8 of a inch--now connect to the other side of the terminal block to Kawasaki Grey wire from pin #3
  • the new relay's wire Yellow (87 ) goes to a new slot on the terminal block--now connect to the other side of the terminal block to Kawasaki Blue wire with yellow tracer from pin #1
  • the new relay's wire White (86 ) goes to a positap **** The part that pierces is used on the Yellow wire with red tracer from the starter solenoid, pin 11 (found on the 10 pin socket ) the white wire goes in the end of the positap
  • the 3 sockets from the relay box must remain plugged in after doing this, as the six pin socket contains some wiring from the ECU relay and some from the fuel pump relay
  • Red from the relay can be connected to a new slot on the terminal block- or taped -This contact is a normally closed and would be live while pushing the start button
@KBHD you know how to get in touch-if in doubt, ask- reversing a misunderstanding could be time consuming and costly.
 

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FYI anyone coming across this post, this is a work around for a failed headlight relay, it is one of the most often failures, some have replaced the relay on the PC board. That relay has a 20 amp rating, I can tell you that is a resistive rating. The after market relay can be purchased for $5 including socket, with a 40 amp rating ,expect it to last a long time. If it fails again, a quick change out by unplugging and putting a new one in, found all over the world. One thing, it is not triggered by the alternator so a voltage display of some sort is recommended. I prefer the "Neat little voltmeter"






Established colour code on the aftermarket relay:
86-White
85-Black
87-Yellow
87a-Red
30-Blue


This is going to be the simple-no auxiliary lighting, keying on brings the headlight on, pushing the start button turns it off during the duration of starting.

First, as long as the key is off, you could proceed, for those guys that drop stuff, accidentally drop a wrench across the battery positive-do yourself a favor. disconnect the positive terminal of the battery, put a rag over the battery post- your good to go.

The following wires get cut from the Kawasaki harness that plugs into the relay box-this is the six pin plug-consider are you ever going to reverse this wiring, if that is a possibility, leave about a 1/2 inch of wire from the plug for either but splice or solder, if you never intend to, you can cut right at the plug.-make sure you are cutting the right wires:
  • Grey wire from pin #3
  • Blue wire with yellow tracer from pin #1
Black wire can be left as is on pin 2.
  • -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • the new relay's wires Black ( 85) and Blue (30) goes to the terminal lock under one screw, strip about 3/8 of a inch--now connect to the other side of the terminal block to Kawasaki Grey wire from pin #3
  • the new relay's wire Yellow (87 ) goes to a new slot on the terminal block--now connect to the other side of the terminal block to Kawasaki Blue wire with yellow tracer from pin #1
  • the new relay's wire White (86 ) goes to a positap **** The part that pierces is used on the Yellow wire with red tracer from the starter solenoid, pin 11 (found on the 10 pin socket ) the white wire goes in the end of the positap
  • the 3 sockets from the relay box must remain plugged in after doing this, as the six pin socket contains some wiring from the ECU relay and some from the fuel pump relay
  • Red from the relay can be connected to a new slot on the terminal block- or taped -This contact is a normally closed and would be live while pushing the start button
@KBHD you know how to get in touch-if in doubt, ask- reversing a misunderstanding could be time consuming and costly.
Thanks for this- gone for 3 days- will work when I get back!
 

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Thanks for this- gone for 3 days- will work when I get back!
Ice storm, power outage and flood in the garage, are putting things on slight hold, (do you ever get the feeling the gods are against you?), however- I will get to this as soon as possible!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Take your time. I am busy trying to help a guy from Italy through google translate
 

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I’ve said it before, but your dedication is unbelievable!! Ok - I think I have completed this task…..Where exactly do I put thee new Relay box, and I think I might have left the wires too long on that, but that I can change, I just was not sure where it is to go. Do I tape the end of the cut wires? And do I tape the POSI-tap and do I tape around the relay block? Or I guess a better question is: is there anything I do not need to tape?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Another guy I helped in 2018, see post #24-these photos are from there;

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Cable Gas Computer hardware



Line Cable Gas Auto part Wire


Light Green Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I’ve said it before, but your dedication is unbelievable!! Ok - I think I have completed this task…..Where exactly do I put thee new Relay box, and I think I might have left the wires too long on that, but that I can change, I just was not sure where it is to go. Do I tape the end of the cut wires? And do I tape the POSI-tap and do I tape around the relay block? Or I guess a better question is: is there anything I do not need to tape?
I will post a photo of my 2015-self explanatory. The ends of the cut wires, a little trick, if you have 1.5 inches or longer, bend back 3/8 to 1/2 inch, start at the tip and tape towards the source / harness-a second trick, BEFORE you tear off the tape, give it 2 twists then ripe off, this leaves a easily found tab, to remove the tape at a later date.
As a electrician doing 95% of my calls were breakdowns, major $$$$$ being lost, TIME to repair was critical, nothing worse than trying to remove the tape at a motor connection box to see if the fault was in the motor or in the wire feeding it. I twisted every tape connection ever, probably 250,000 motor joints alone.
Some guys said it made it look messy-my reply-"have the owner, the head electrician and 10 people standing around"-all stressed out while I try and find the end of the tape . Large motors, there was a motor connection kit by Burndy and a few others.Much faster but like $50 for 3, not 100% sure, several styles -if you had room -https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/multiple-tap-connectors

No time to explain, but many connection boxes do not have the room for staright in and straight out syle connectors as shown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I’ve said it before, but your dedication is unbelievable!! Ok - I think I have completed this task…..Where exactly do I put thee new Relay box, and I think I might have left the wires too long on that, but that I can change, I just was not sure where it is to go. Do I tape the end of the cut wires? And do I tape the POSI-tap and do I tape around the relay block? Or I guess a better question is: is there anything I do not need to tape?
The positap I would tape, although you would need to be riding in some heavy rain to get in there. Follow my previous post about cut wire ends-If you have questions, please post before doing -One Thing HAVE YOU TRIED -Made sure it works before taping?
Where and why:
My Innovv camera and may other electrical connections-note the black covering, from the home depot -toolbox rubber





I have been in torrential downpours doing 130 clicks on the 401 highway- everything was dry below!
 
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