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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I consider replacing the high/low headlight bulb with a LED bulb and connect the lower incandescent high beam bulb to the high beam of the LED bulb. This way I would get two high beam headlights and the total power draw will not be too high. Or...?

I am not sure of the quality of the high/low LEDs of today though, will I end up with a lousy low beam? :crying: Today my low beam headlight is a well functioning XID conversion that is really bright and powerful, with not too many stray rays.

Does anybody know if those high/low LEDs are good replacements? Here is one: New 32W 3000LM COB LED Hi Lo Beam H4 Motorcycle Headlight Front Light Bulb Lamp | eBay

I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.

Edit: I know that we have a H7 bulb in both the hi/low but I think I could modify either the reflector or the bulb to fit a H4 bulb. But that might put everything out of focus? Anyone tried?
 

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I tried using something similar on my 2016 650 VLT https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Evitek-6500K-Easy-Installed-4500LM/dp/B017M566T4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451400580&sr=8-3&keywords=EVITEK h4&tag=viglink20849-20

Had trouble getting the clip between the light and fan on the back side. Got one to work by luck and brawn and couldn't get the other side to connect. I also tore the rubber boot that goes behind the light and had to order a replacement. I couldn't see any way to save the boot with this light. I am a little concerned about water entering the inside of the light without the boot.

I'm still looking for a LED replacement but might go with HID instead. I put in a set of brighter 55W bulbs from Phillips which helped.

Keep us posted on what you find and if it works.
Mike
 

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I used a HID setup on my '90 Concours. EBay auto type using one HID control box and bulb with this upgraded headlight harness:

Headlight Wiring Harness Upgrade for Your Concours!

This harness draws current directly from the battery to power your light bulbs. It may take some creative wiring to adapt this to the V two bulb system. The HID may work just fine without the additional harness.

Not only night bright, but got attention in the daytime as well. I had lots of room behind the Concours fairing so if I went that way on the V I would look for the smallest HID headlamp controller available.
 

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Neee... just go directly to the real deal: dual HID projectors...
and angel eyes and LED strips (both switchback)... and demon eyes.

But the light from projectors is....... the next level..
sorry no photo with the HID yet, one ballast was defective and I'm still waiting to receive it.
 

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Neee... just go directly to the real deal: dual HID projectors...
and angel eyes and LED strips (both switchback)... and demon eyes.

But the light from projectors is....... the next level..
sorry no photo with the HID yet, one ballast was defective and I'm still waiting to receive it.
Ok, you gotta link to that build? I would love to have that on my V. Please tell me that you are not an electrical engineer and just an average Joe with basic garage skills. That might boost my confidence in doing this.
Mike
 

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Ok, you gotta link to that build? I would love to have that on my V. Please tell me that you are not an electrical engineer and just an average Joe with basic garage skills. That might boost my confidence in doing this.
Mike
:D... I don't have a link yet, I just did this in my garage ;) I'm not an electrical engineer... I'm a mechanical one. :surprise:
The electrical part is not difficult, it's the opening the headlight and manage to get everything inside ;)

If you are not afraid to do this.... should be no problem....:nerd:
I'll try to do a HOW-TO if there is some interest...
 

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I see if I have time Mike.

Meanwhile I added some photos in my thread with the HID ON.
 

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I looked at this same issue earlier and have tried HID bulb replacements. The thing is with any type of bulb change there is really only a minimal (hardly noticeable) increase in brightness, and with good quality H7 LED bulb replacement the price can be quite high for two. You are somewhat limited by the reflector housing.

The better alternative, in my experience, is to mount auxilary LED driving lights. A set of name brand Clearwater or Denali lights can cost well over $500 however there are some great no name lights on AliExpress and Ebay that produce similar amounts of light and cost ~$80/pair. This is what I did. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/10-modifications-performance/114849-led-auxiliary-lighting.html There are also lots of other threads on this site on aux light installs if you do a search.


Good quality auxiliary lights produce 6000-8000 lumens per pair and have a reflector optimised for the LEDs where as a headlight bulb only produces maybe 1400 lumens. A narrow spot beam pattern is desirable for on road use as is a light that produces ~3500 lumens per light.

I just added my aux lights and am "wowed" by the increase in illumination. These provide so much light, you will only want to operate these with the high beam, in environments where there is no street lights. I tied mine into the high beam switch.
 

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I installed the LED hi and low beam with the braided wire heat dissipater setup. They were easy to install. I had to make a circular cut on the rubber boots, which was fairly easy, and fit tight when finished. I also was able to use the stock retaining clips. They fit almost perfectly by switching the right and left clips and then bending one segment in a vise. The lights are amazing.
 

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99% of LED drop in bulbs don't work well in Halogen reflector housings, but these have build quality like I've never seen before. Would you mind taking a shot of the headlight output (low beam, then high beam) at 25' or farther from a wall? This lets headlight gurus judge the true output of a headlight set up change!

Thanks!
 

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Led / Phillips

The upside is they are using Phillips, in my opinion the leaders in LED technology.Once someone has tried these out, please post, I will add them to the existing thread on this.
 

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I tried something similar with a pair of H4 LED units I bought last year. I couldn't get the light coming out of the high beam side to have a nice cutoff like the low beam side.

I used to think that it would be easiest to manufacture the same reflector design (mirrored, of course) and just mount the bulb in a position that made it focus differently. This theory was further supported by the fact that the back of the reflector for the high beam side was much thicker (~4mm vs 10mm, if memory serves). However, offsetting the mounting collar by the same amount (or not) did not produce any usable light pattern.

I have since blacked out the lower half of the dipped beam emitter (as you can see in the picture). I'll refit these units and report back. Another candidate is the Nighteye H4 LED with the shields on the lower beam emitter.

The trouble is that you need to remove the front cowling (with the reflectors) to comfortably experiment with different positions for the optimum beam focus. You need a target surface a long distance (50-100 ft) away to try different emitter positions, ideally in the dark.

OneWizard, I have very similar units to the H7 LEDs mentioned above. Mine have solid heatsinks, but the emmiters, housing and drivers look identical. I got the tightest beam aiming at a wall about 40 ft away, by rotating the bodies in about 5 degrees. I don't think it works too well out on the open road, though.

Please stand by for some photos of beam patterns with a non-ideal target surface (my street)...
 

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