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Discussion Starter #1
I realize I am probably a minority in this thought, but I would prefer a little longer reach to the bars, and a bit lower if possible. if anyone else feels, or felt this way, and modified with an aftermarket bar, please let me know what you used, how it's worked out etc..

I have the stock bars rotated as far forward as possible without making them feel bizarre. Just put on an SC seat, which helps a bit too putting me slightly further back. It's better, but not perfect. Not a lot of room to work with given gas tank and windshield clearances, but there is some. In researching, I found two approaches people have used:

1) 2" Rox risers rotated all the way forward with a motocross bar.

2) Motocross bar of the correct heaight sweep to take advantage of the avalable adjustment room in the stock riser.

I'm leaning towards option two, and so far likely looking at a CR High Bend or an RC High Bend. I realize without the risers I won't get them as far forward as I could with risers, but the sweep is probably the bigger issue to me, and either option will get my wrists into a better position. I think too many years of riding mountain bikes and dirt bikes conditioned me to prefer a straighter bar with little sweep.
 

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My Tag Metals tapered aluminum handlebar with YZ double-high bend (on modified Moose Racing riser/adapter) does have less sweep. I thought it was a problem at first, until I realized my rear wheel was severely misaligned even though the rear axle was lined up with swingarm reference marks.

You can't go much lower without having your handlebar switchgear housing touch top of fairing/fuel tank at full steering lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My Tag Metals tapered aluminum handlebar with YZ double-high bend (on modified Moose Racing riser/adapter) does have less sweep. I thought it was a problem at first, until I realized my rear wheel was severely misaligned even though the rear axle was lined up with swingarm reference marks.

You can't go much lower without having your handlebar switchgear housing touch top of fairing/fuel tank at full steering lock.
I didn't even realize "double high" was an option. The specs on those look pretty close to the RC High bend. I would think those bars with risers would give you lots of clearance, if they are run nearly straight up, so I'm guessing you have them pulled back a bit if they are close.

I impulse bought a cheap set of Moose Carbon Steel CR High Bend bars on my lunch break today. They are Lower than the Renthal RC High bend bars I had been looking at, and even running them upright as I generally prefer, it will be a close fit at best over the tank. I may have to get creative with the front brake line attachment as it looks to be the lowest point the way I have my perch set.

If these work, it will put my hands roughly an inch lower, 1-2 inches further forward, and with a better an angle that has less sweep. I figured for $25 it was worth a shot. Looked a tad odd riding home with them.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
They fit, but not by much. I had to turn the 90 degree banjo fitting on the brake line counter clockwise just a bit to clear, but otherwise they fit lock to lock with no issues. Waiting on some regular style bar ends to come in, so for now I'll run them without weights and hopefully vibes won't be too bad



 

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Discussion Starter #5
I love these bars on the Versys. They did exactly what I was hoping for. Still upright enough to be super comfy for me, but my wrists feel better and it's a huge difference for me in twisties. I can now use better body position through a turn without feeling really cramped like. It weights the front end a little as well, and gives what i consider a more planted front end feel. Also puts my arse at a more favorable angle for me; a slight change towards sport touring seating, but not nearly as extreme. Added benefit is being a touch wider, it puts the mirrors out a bit for less of a shoulder view. Seemed to steady the left one a tad, but I put on Tuono mirrors yesterday anyway, now i can see whats behind me clearly.

One downfall is running without bar weights they are extremely buzzy. After one day of that, I got the hardware needed to convert the OEM bar ends to fit, and now they are acceptable for me. I think still a touch buzzier than stock though, probably due to the crossbar stiffening things up. It's not removable on these lower end steel bars.

So, if you're like me with long torso and arms, and wide shoulders, and looking for a way to open up the rider triangle on the Versys to give it a slightly sportier feel, here's a cheap way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They vibrate because they're Moose Carbon Steel handlebars, with the crossbar as well. :frown2:
I don't think steel is a problem at all. In my opinion as a material it generally soaks up vibes better than aluminum. However I do think the fixed crossbar take some of that ability away, and is also teh reason the stock mirrors stabilized a bit.

It's really no matter since it is only marginally more noticeable than stock. Not enough to bother me. Then again, I've spent 20 plus years riding an XS 650 with steel bars and no weights so....:grin2:
 

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I never even tried my new Versys with stock steel handlebar... I've always had my Tag Metals tapered aluminum handlebar on Moose racing riser/adapter, without bar-end weights, and it is absolutely sublime. :thumb: Image in my billet aluminum mirrors are always clear as well.
 
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