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Discussion Starter #1
What do you use to install grips. I have used various grip glues, 3m spray adhesive, golf grip tape, hairspray, spray paint even WD-40. All with varied success. I am installing a pair of Pro-Grip 719's in the next few days. I would really appreciate other opinions on the above remedies but maybe a few I haven't heard of. WHAT SAY YOU?
 

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sir,

easiest way is to use compress air, if you hve access to an air compressor.
direct a narrow jet of air at the top of the grip n pull out.
to insert, push new grip into handle bar, direct air into grip n push fully home.

rgds.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sir,

easiest way is to use compress air, if you hve access to an air compressor.
direct a narrow jet of air at the top of the grip n pull out.
to insert, push new grip into handle bar, direct air into grip n push fully home.

rgds.
You use no glue or anything to hold it on?:eek: I guess my trepidation comes from years riding MX. Sure don't want to come down from a jump and have the grips rotate. Also the grips on a V have no end because of the bar-end weights, so the air-compressor theory wont work....would it?
 

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sir,

you gotta do it fast n wiggle the air tube around between the grip n the handle bar.
squit in the compress air (using a narrow tube on a pistol grip).
the fact tat it is difficult to get them on in the first place shows tat it's a rather tight fit.
no worries with the grips rotating. it's a dry n tight fit when completed.
anyway, tat's how its done over here.

rgds
 

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Not to stray from the direct question, but I've found slipping Grip Puppies over the stock grips works very well: more hand-filling, cushioned, easy, and inexpensive. Just a thought. Use it, if it helps. Ignore it, if not.
 

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I'll use double sided carpet or masking tape from time to time. Seems to hold on my golf grips well enough. Getting them off is no problem with a little WD and a knitting needle or the old knife trick. Just don't do what I did and cut into your Kimpex grip heaters. Doh!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not to stray from the direct question, but I've found slipping Grip Puppies over the stock grips works very well: more hand-filling, cushioned, easy, and inexpensive. Just a thought. Use it, if it helps. Ignore it, if not.
Yeah I use grip puppies also. Although I'm gonna try not using them as I'm making the change over to Pro-Taper/Rox anti-vibe risers to quell the finger tip numbing vibration.
 

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I got tired of never having a tube of grip glue that wasn't already hard:mad:

I started using clear lacquer spray paint on the left side bar. Works great. Also compressed air is a must for removing. On the dirt bikes wire tie with 24 gauge wire. I don't ever put anything on the throttle tube.
 

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+1.......Compressed air works well to get off and on as long as you don't have bar end weights.

Once the grip is on, wrap safety wire in the grooves inboard and outboard and it will stay secure until you want to take them off again. Old enduro trick :topsecret: Glue just messes things up.

Not pretty enough for some folks, but effective and serviceable.

Grip Puppies are fine, but learning to grip the bars in a relaxed manner will end the "numb hand syndrome" in rapid fashion.

V-Zee
 

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I did my klr last year
Cutted the original grip with an exacto, removed the old grip
On the clutch side, it went very easy, and there was some sort on glue, but it was not holding much
I didn't bother to clean the "glue" and put back the new grip on and bingo
On the throttle side it was another ordeal
The old grip WAS stuck to the plastic throttle tube
I had to work a bit harder to remove the old material (which I left a little)

Then I install the new one (for reference they were Progrip 714)
I used isopro. alcool, 99%, have to do it fast, poured some on the handle bar, in the grip, then slide the hole thing over and hurry up to settle it at the right place
Last year I waited 24 hour before taking the bike out

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This year
Did the V
Same routine, except I did not found any glue on the bar, so both side were easier, (there a small ridge on the plastic tube and the oem grip has the female portion to maintain the grip in place, my new progrip didn't have that ridge ...)
Put the grip in place, and after an 1/2 hour, I couldn't turn the grip on the bar (went out for a ride and all was well)

My .02 $

Ciao

LOP
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did my klr last year
Cutted the original grip with an exacto, removed the old grip
On the clutch side, it went very easy, and there was some sort on glue, but it was not holding much
I didn't bother to clean the "glue" and put back the new grip on and bingo
On the throttle side it was another ordeal
The old grip WAS stuck to the plastic throttle tube
I had to work a bit harder to remove the old material (which I left a little)

Then I install the new one (for reference they were Progrip 714)
I used isopro. alcool, 99%, have to do it fast, poured some on the handle bar, in the grip, then slide the hole thing over and hurry up to settle it at the right place
Last year I waited 24 hour before taking the bike out

======================================
This year
Did the V
Same routine, except I did not found any glue on the bar, so both side were easier, (there a small ridge on the plastic tube and the oem grip has the female portion to maintain the grip in place, my new progrip didn't have that ridge ...)
Put the grip in place, and after an 1/2 hour, I couldn't turn the grip on the bar (went out for a ride and all was well)

My .02 $

Ciao

LOP
I forgot about the Alcohol trick. Hmmm...:interesting:
 

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[QUOTE=VerstehenZee;75015
Grip Puppies are fine, but learning to grip the bars in a relaxed manner will end the "numb hand syndrome" in rapid fashion.


Agreed. I like the GP's for the extra circumference. Vibration has never bothered me. I think previous CR500R ownership cured me of that.
 

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Well back in the late 70's we used soapy water to get the grips on our motorcross bikes. Never had a problem with one coming off or slippage.
 

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My heated grips used a 'special' superglue to put the grips on, I've used hairspray on my bikes ( bicycles ) over the years and they have slipped on me. I would rather follow the directions than worry about that happening on something that's a little faster/heavier than my mtn bike. :)
 

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When I installed my Oxford heated grips I did the following:

1. Removed the bar end weights

2. Used compressed air with a needle jet to remove the factory grips (the needle jet and air pressure broke the grip glue bond when they were "inflated" like a balloon) the trick is to grab the grip end (the "far" end nearest the controls) to balloon the grip then slide it off the bars.

I probably didn't need to remove the bar end weights but I wanted to remove a KAOKA throttle lock I had installed previously during the grip swap out.

3. Start the replacement grip onto the bar, again grab the far end and use the needle jet to slightly balloon the grip and slide the grip onto the bar.

I've used the same technique to put pipe insulation onto pipes, tubes and rods. It is a lot easier than trying to slide a 6 foot length of closed cell foam tube onto a plastic or metal pipe or rod.
 

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I used chain cleaner to put my grips on. I sprayed a little inside the grip and a little on the bars. They slid on super easy and stuck like glue in a matter of seconds.

I've never had such an easy time putting grips on.
 

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Last year, two days before a trip I decided to fix that darned throttle grip that kept working its way out... So I took it off, cleaned it and put it back on with some silicon caulking.

Two days later I left on the trip and as I got to the bottom of my driveway the grip came off in my hand like I had put it on with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly!

It seems that the grip made such a good & airtight seal that the silicon reacted like it was still in the caulking gun -- it didn’t dry AT ALL!

So now what...? I could go back, clean it off and try something else... but the only thing that I have that will dry fast is Contac Cement -- but I’m afraid that it will either do the same thing, or worse, if I let it get tacky... I might only get the grip halfway on before it bonds! Screw it, I’ll ride on and fix it when I get to my destination 200 miles away...

Five miles down the road my hand is cramping up because of how hard I have to squeeze the throttle to keep it from unwinding. Hmmm... Wait! It air dries! So I slide the grip all but off the throttle and hold it there with my fingertips for a couple of minutes... slide it back on and... hmmm.. a little better.. So I continue this off... on... off... on... routine for about 10 minutes until it was tacky enough that it had a decent grip on the throttle and by the time I got where I was going it was firmly bonded.

The lesson here is; if you’re going to use silicon..., apply it while you’re doing 60 MPH... :rolleyes:
 

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I just changed the grips on my Triumph Speed triple. i bought a set of Pro grip 259's , I installed them using....water,as the instructions tell you to. I let them sit 24 hours ,and took a 265 mile ride the next day. no slipping no problems.i used to use hair spray if the grip doesn't stay in place ,but with the Pro grips , this hasn;t been a problem on any of the 4 pairs i have installed on any of the bikes'
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I just changed the grips on my Triumph Speed triple. i bought a set of Pro grip 259's , I installed them using....water,as the instructions tell you to. I let them sit 24 hours ,and took a 265 mile ride the next day. no slipping no problems.i used to use hair spray if the grip doesn't stay in place ,but with the Pro grips , this hasn;t been a problem on any of the 4 pairs i have installed on any of the bikes'
I would be inclined to agree with you. On the Pro-Taper EVO bars the left side is very aggressively knurled. This combined with the texture inside of the Pro-Grips may be more than enough. However I may may use a light coating of grip glue on the throttle side because of the lack of the knurling. I'm gonna have to make a decision soon, as my Rox riser will be here today. Thanx all for the input.:thanx:
 
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