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Gold valves on Gen 3

4K views 21 replies 5 participants last post by  quexpress 
#1 ·
who has done it? was it worth it? any suggestions?

there is also an Italian cart kit... thats a "maybe" if it is really good

I have an Ohlins rear shock
 
#2 ·
Gen 3 650 Fork Revalve

who has done it? was it worth it? any suggestions?
I don't know anyone who has revalved a Gen3 650 with Race Tech's Gold valve, etc.


However I can tell you that I have revalved mine (compression and rebound) in March 2018 without using the Gold Valve.


Since the Gen3 OEM 20mm fork valves already flow pretty good, I decided to massage them and clone Race Tech's revalve system.


It takes time (lots of testing) but I'm very happy with the results.


I need to find some time and try to write up some steps to follow. It's similar to what fellow riders have done for their Gen 1 and Gen2 Versys. However, instead of grinding valve shims, I decided to use new shims as does Race Tech.
 
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#4 ·
Every bike I have put gold valve cartridge emulators in is because it needed it, and in every case was a vast improvement in suspension compliance without becoming mushy.

Kawasaki actually recommended running 28 PSI in the front tire of the Vulcan Voyager to compensate for their piss poor fork internals. When it was at a dealer getting the engine issue diagnosed they had to keep doing things and riding it. I came to check on it and they immediately quizzed me on if I had done anything to the suspension because it was THAT NOTICEABLE! Definitely the least expensive way to vastly improved suspension performance upgrade.
 
#11 ·
Every bike I have put gold valve cartridge emulators in is because it needed it, and in every case was a vast improvement in suspension compliance without becoming mushy.
For the Versys 650, Racetech furnishes Gold Valves ... not gold valve cartridge emulators.
These Gold Valves replace the OEM valves in our right hand side fork. Along with these valves, they send a bunch of valve shims and basic instructions as a baseline to get started.


Once done, the rider has the same adjustments as with the OEM setup ... but with a much superior suspension.


I cloned that approach ... using the OEM valves (modified) along with the suggested valve shims.


As mentioned earlier, I need to gather my data and put it in logical sequence to print.
 
#5 ·
Very interested in how people have improved the MK3 forks, aside from switching to ATF, which I need to try. The Andreani cartridge kit is high on my list after the improvements the R1 shock made in the rear, but if gold valves are effective and less expensive I would be onboard for that.
 
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#8 ·
No Video

The main difference is that once you get the Gold Valves set to your liking you are going to keep them that way for the long haul.

The Cartridge kit usually comes with external adjustment for compression and rebound, so if you are the type who changes settings for the nice twisty road and change them again for comfort on the interstate, you will want the adjustable cartridges.
 
#6 ·
yea.... what he said. I switched to ATF, it's OK but not a lot of difference. I thing theres room for a lot of improvement
 
#9 ·
I'm fine with something that works well most of the time. I have no need to twiddle knobs just for the sake of it. this bike will is mostly highway and some gravel roads. I'm not blasting the twisties, I'm not pounding the woops. surely there is an ambient setting can cover that.
 
#10 ·
Race Tech will provide a good initial setting for you. Some guys end up fishing them out a couple times adjusting, but that really depends on what other suspension you have experienced and how bad the stock suspension is. I found their initial setting much improved that I didn't want to bother fishing them out and adjusting.

Have you checked your current sag on the front forks to determine if you should go for new springs as well as the GVEs?
 
#18 ·
I did Q's mod on my Gen III forks using the data he posted in another thread and wow.... much better. total cost was about 30 bucks, including the fork oil. someone should consolidate that data and make a sticky..... its really worth it. and a big thanks to Mr Q!!!
 
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#21 ·
with parts in hand it can be done in a day. I have replaced the seals in my forks before, so I was a bit familiar with the process. I only modified the right side & still have the stock spring in the left.

dealing with SDI on the internet was confused but a phone call put things right and they were very fast on the shipping.
the order was for shims:
KLV61009
KLV61010
KLV61011
KLV61012 ------- 2 each
KLV61013
KLV61015 ------- 2 each

some of the OEM shims were re-positioned to complete the stack. might be a good idea to have a fork seal on hand as well in case you damage the one thats in there. watch the stack up and note the direction of the seal if you take them off the leg.

I used a small diamond bit in my Dremel Moto Tool to reshape the ports on the valves. took maybe half hour per valve

the biggest PITA was the bottom Allen head bolt that holds the cartridge. I hit it with the impact gun but it spun anyway. the valve body spins in the cartridge tube... you can hold the tube, but no way to touch the valve. I farted with it a couple hours but got nowhere & finally just drilled off the head. that will never happen again because I pined it before reassembly. I drilled an 1/8" hole through the side of the cartridge, then into the bottom valve body that the Allen bolt threads into (I stopped just short of the thread). I put a piece of steel rod in the hole about 5/16" long and dressed it smooth. the bottom cap slides right over it & holds it in place. all parts are captive by the Allen bolt once assembled, same as original. I did this because it is possible to hold the cartridge from the top of the fork and if you use Locktite like the book says, eventually the Locktite will win, and the cart will spin.
 
#22 ·
the biggest PITA was the bottom Allen head bolt that holds the cartridge. I hit it with the impact gun but it spun anyway. the valve body spins in the cartridge tube... you can hold the tube, but no way to touch the valve. I farted with it a couple hours but got nowhere & finally just drilled off the head. that will never happen again because I pined it before reassembly. I drilled an 1/8" hole through the side of the cartridge, then into the bottom valve body that the Allen bolt threads into (I stopped just short of the thread). I put a piece of steel rod in the hole about 5/16" long and dressed it smooth. the bottom cap slides right over it & holds it in place. all parts are captive by the Allen bolt once assembled, same as original. I did this because it is possible to hold the cartridge from the top of the fork and if you use Locktite like the book says, eventually the Locktite will win, and the cart will spin.
That's an excellent mod Berezerboy! Well done sir!
 
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