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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For my next idea I'm going to attach my Kawasaki factory crash bars to my T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate. Yes you read that right. ( See update for video and it turned out great) The Kawasaki crash bars are not the best design. From participants on here have had there headlight / front end frame/cage twist with a bike tip over. The genuine crash bars only attach to the frame through the side cowls and at the front end headlight cage (which isn't a strong point on the bike and bend to easy so to fix that I'm going to connect my genuine Kawasaki crash bars to the T-Rex HD Skid Plate. I have the parts and will try this ASAP. The T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate is the only one that mounts to the top front and low rear engine/frame mounts that are beefy M10 bolts. I've added a 5th brace to the HD plate to solve the fore-aft movement issue by utilizing the center stand M10 frame mount bolt. So with FIVE M10 bolt attachment point for the HD skid plate and soon two more attachments to the crash bars this will be stronger than anything out there for the Versys X300. See my video - link below. After that a video of my Versys X300 up on a bike floor jack only utilizing the skid plate as the platform to raise it up off the floor for wheel / tire removal. This will be fun. What can possibly go wrong? (famous last words)
T-Rex HD Skid Plate 5th brace video: LINK: (1) Kawasaki Versys X300 2017 to 2021 T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid plate Install with a 5th brace - YouTube
UPDATE: 10/4/2021 I just put up a video today on attaching the Genuine Kawasaki crash bars to the T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate. The upgrade is better than I expected. Check out the video of the results with a pull test before and after the mod. The different is huge. LINK: Kawasaki Versys X300 beefing up genuine Kaw crash bars - attach to the T- Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate - YouTube
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yes, good idea to make the attachment to the crash bars stronger. it happened to me, when the bike fell at low speed the inner cage got completely twisted. i have now different, locally sourced, crash bars that have more points of attachment. the main reason I am using crash bars is to attach the fog lights :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes, good idea to make the attachment to the crash bars stronger. it happened to me, when the bike fell at low speed the inner cage got completely twisted. i have now different, locally sourced, crash bars that have more points of attachment. the main reason I am using crash bars is to attach the fog lights :).
I had you in mind when I wrote this post. The inner cage isn't a strong point. The Genuine Kawasaki crash bars need at least another strong point of contact like the T-Rex or Givi bars. So I will use the HD skid plate as it intern is attached to the high/front engine frame M10 bolt. I tested the parts and it looks like it will fit. I'll get on this project to prove it out so anyone can buy just 2 parts and some M6 and M8 bolts to put this together without much effort. I'll be back with the video.
 

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Some of the big motorcycle YouTube channels address this issue as such "the bike will fall over or crash - it's not a matter of IF it is a matter of WHEN".
That is not an accurate statement. It is meant to scare people into honing their skills which is a good thing. Yes, if you don't hone your skills, and then ride beyond your skills you will go down.

A more accurate statement is "At some point while learning to ride, there is a good chance you will drop a bike." Big difference between this statement, and every bike you own will be dropped.

That is like saying, "If you live long enough, you will die." So, yes, if you don't give up riding when you realize your skills have diminished or move to smaller bikes, you will eventually drop the bike.

I know guys who have been riding 50 years who only dropped their learner bike while improving their skills and have never been in a wreck. Many of those YouTube videos also show riders using the streets as their own personal racetrack, and yes, if you ride like that you will go down at some point.
 

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I had the OEM bars, dropped the bike and they bent at the mounting point across the hole just below below the mounting bolt. Replaced them with GIVI bars.
 

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Sounds like what you are really looking for is a stunt cage:

I put guards on my bikes as a place to mount accessories.

Here is what the Kawasaki website says about their guards.

  • NOTE: This guard may provide limited leg and cosmetic vehicle protection under unique circumstances, i.e. tip over while the motorcycle is stopped
  • It is not manufactured, nor intended to provide protection from bodily injury in a collision with an automobile or any other object

As you see in the photo on their website they are used to hold the driving lights, but dropping the bike slowly while standing still will probably protect the plastics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like what you are really looking for is a stunt cage:

I put guards on my bikes as a place to mount accessories.

Here is what the Kawasaki website says about their guards.

  • NOTE: This guard may provide limited leg and cosmetic vehicle protection under unique circumstances, i.e. tip over while the motorcycle is stopped
  • It is not manufactured, nor intended to provide protection from bodily injury in a collision with an automobile or any other object

As you see in the photo on their website they are used to hold the driving lights, but dropping the bike slowly while standing still will probably protect the plastics.
This is all true and at the time I bought my X300 I didn't know all this and have learned through others (Like Kris above) the Kawasaki crash bars are an issue even at low speed (his words). So I'm not settling for just stock Kawasaki crash bar performance. I've looked at the third party bars that are getting better reviews and they have an additional attachment point at the top front engine/frame position. So I'm making that happen with a stout attachment to the T-Rex heavy duty skid plate that has beefy brackets on the top front engine/frame position and that should help a lot. My goal is to not toss the factory crash bars and start over when I think I have found a simple inexpensive solution for those of us that have the T-Rex HD skid plate. The only skid plate to use in my opinion as it doesn't use the brackets from the lower engine plastic that attaches to the engine sump/oil pan which is aluminum and it's screws protrude on fragile taps. At least I got that accessory right.
 

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most cases of dropping the bike happen when parking, at least for me. with the exception of the off-road bike. if I was to high speed crash the bike, i would be more concerned about my personal survival than damaging the side panels :)

Here, are the photos of crash bars with 3 points of attachment. Works ok. And there is a skid plate, but as Dave mentioned, its mounting points are not very strong; especially on the left side the factory bracket is very thin, and I had to already weld it once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
most cases of dropping the bike happen when parking, at least for me. with the exception of the off-road bike. if I was to high speed crash the bike, i would be more concerned about my personal survival than damaging the side panels :)

Here, are the photos of crash bars with 3 points of attachment. Works ok. And there is a skid plate, but as Dave mentioned, its mounting points are not very strong; especially on the left side the factory bracket is very thin, and I had to already weld it once.
Those crash bars look like the best ones out there. The way they attach to three points is fantastic and the front attachment method is superb. Is it possible to ship a set to the US ? lol Probably would cost hundreds of dollars to get them here. Who knows - stuff shipped here from China is dirt cheap.
 

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Those crash bars look like the best ones out there. The way they attach to three points is fantastic and the front attachment method is superb. Is it possible to ship a set to the US ? lol Probably would cost hundreds of dollars to get them here. Who knows - stuff shipped here from Chins is dirt cheap.
I am not sure if the person offers shipping abroad option. I can ask. The bars also come with very good quality clamps for fog lights, both OEM and others. But the price is already close to 200usd.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry, the crash bars seem to be out of stock.
Well - that the case for so many parts. I have been after a set of 50/50 tires or 80/20 tires and out of stock for the Versys X300 stock sizes is normal. But I did finally fine a set of the Dunlop TrailMax Mission in the correct sizes and need to determine when to put them on the bike. thank you for checking. They will come back in stock at some point. I can wait. I just put up a video today on attaching the Genuine Kawasaki crash bars to the T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate. The upgrade is better than I expected. Check out the video of the results with a pull test before and after the mod. The different is huge. LINK: Kawasaki Versys X300 beefing up genuine Kaw crash bars - attach to the T- Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate - YouTube
 

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Well - that the case for so many parts. I have been after a set of 50/50 tires or 80/20 tires and out of stock for the Versys X300 stock sizes is normal. But I did finally fine a set of the Dunlop TrailMax Mission in the correct sizes and need to determine when to put them on the bike. thank you for checking. They will come back in stock at some point. I can wait. I just put up a video today on attaching the Genuine Kawasaki crash bars to the T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate. The upgrade is better than I expected. Check out the video of the results with a pull test before and after the mod. The different is huge. LINK: Kawasaki Versys X300 beefing up genuine Kaw crash bars - attach to the T- Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate - YouTube
That's great. Assuming your skid plate is heavy duty, which it seems to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
That's great. Assuming your skid plate is heavy duty, which it seems to be.
T-Rex makes two skid plate models for the Versys X300. The standard one is the one that has been cloned by countless sellers on Amazon. The Heavy Duty skid plate is in a class totally by it's self. It has four 1/4inch by 1 inch brackets that each attached to the engine/frame mounts that are all M10 bolts. I have made my own modification to add a 5th bracket/brace to stabilize the skid plate as it has one weakness - fore/aft rigidity. So problem solved with a steel brace utilizing the frame/center stand M10 bolt on the left side of the bike. I made a video - LINK: (38) Kawasaki Versys X300 2017 to 2021 T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid plate Install with a 5th brace - YouTube
My final thoughts are that the T-Rex heavy duty skid plate is the only that doesn't use the original bracketry from the lower engine brackets that in turn are attached to the cast aluminum oil pan screws. Attaching anything to the oil pan, like a skid plate, is a really bad idea.
UPDATE: I just put up a video today on attaching the Genuine Kawasaki crash bars to the T-Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate. The upgrade is better than I expected. Check out the video of the results with a pull test before and after the mod. The different is huge. LINK: Kawasaki Versys X300 beefing up genuine Kaw crash bars - attach to the T- Rex Heavy Duty Skid Plate - YouTube
 

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yes, I agree. also the metal brackets that attach to the engine are weak by themselves. I have it at present, but then again, I am using the bike just for highway, so have the skid plate just for aesthetic reasons.
 

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Crash bars should really be renamed tip over bars. That's about the only time they might save some of the plastics or turn signals, when you drop the bike at a stop. If you dump the bike when are going down the highway at any speed, they might save the engine cases, if they are designed properly. They need to be designed so that they don't catch anything and soft enough that they collapse and take the brunt of the road rash. They are more of a look nice feature and a place to maybe mount some additional lights.
 

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I had SWMotech "crash-bars" on BOTH my Gen 1 V650s ('08 in AZ, '09 in BC). BOTH had 20 to 30 mph low-sides, the '08 on pavement, AZ 366, and the '09 on dirt (Dempster Hwy 60 miles S of Inuvik). BOTH sets protected my leg, and (basically) did NOT distort or get bent!

I "repaired" the scratches on BOTH "crash-bars" by putting electricians tape on them, and a piece of reflective tape on the handguard scratches. These pics are taken AFTER I 'fixed' things on my '08.

DSC05405 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

DSC05404 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

Altho' I DID get a small scratch on the alternator case on the '08.

DSC09818 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

And here's the '09's lowside....

P6212188 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

and 'doing' repairs in my camp later that day.

P6212198 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr


P6272420 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

The '09 (the GREEN HORNET) was declared an insurance write-off because of various frame tweaks, tho' I rode it home over three or four days.
 
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