If you go to my post #50 of this thread, look at the third photo, you will see the spare drilled and taped mounting, you could use this as a central ground point.
The only comment I would make is that you do not need to run the negative side of the additional relay all the way back to the battery - the relay coil only is milliamps of current. Just find a convenient place up front to ground to the frame. I would just place the additional relay near the aux relay to make the wiring shorter. You could even tape the two relays together. That way you just need to run one wire from the battery (+) to the additional relay.
Awesome. Thanks for the help.
I figured it might be with the three wires going into it.
Goodbye gear indicator, hello lights.
I would say away from that white connector and look at the 4 slots black connector.
Buy the relay that is just for that purpose then you can use the 2 aux wire dangling just under the dashboard connector. See http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/178-modifications-performance-v-650/29482-neat-little-voltmeter-review-3.html#post1342497
(In theory according to electric diagram) The white connector would be ok for hacking the voltmeter in. The black/yellow is the ground, the black/white is the ignitition-switched 12V (behind a 10A fuse). I just don't know how you could plug in reliably without vibration
I already have the relay installed and tapped into the power outlet connection for my 3BR USB charger.
Is the 5A “Accessory” fuse under the seat the one for that circuit?
Thanks for all of the help.
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Basically, the relay IS the switch.
A relay uses a small current to switch a bigger current. This way you can use a lighter duty switch to control a current that would burn out a small switch. Or is helps keep from running fat wires to the bars for a heavy duty switch to power high power driving lights, etc. In this case, it uses the automatically controlled small current from your accessory circuit to switch on the power to the heated grips. When you turn on the bike, power is switched on to the grip controller. Likewise when you turn off the bike, power to the controller is cut.
The controller for the grips has an "off" position, right? That's your switch. I don't know why you would need another switch. The relay will prevent power from reaching the controller and draining the battery when the bike is off.
Look at the diagram. When you put power across terminals 85 and 86, it closes the switch between 30 and 87.
Note: I don't know where those numbers came from but they seem to be common in any typical automotive relay you get from any auto parts store.
So, you run a wire from that accessory circuit you found on your bike to terminal 86 on the relay. Run a wire from 85 to the frame to ground it. Run the power wire from the battery to terminal 30 and from 87 to the grip controller.
Something I missed , two drawings, both correct, the first with a discharge diode or free wheeling diode, connected in reverse to act as a arc quench from the collapsing magnetic field of the relay coil.I'm on my way out the door and therefore do not have time to draw up a diagram. However the following should give you a good idea of what I'm using.
Note: In my first response, I had not mentioned that I use an auxiliary fuse panel for the "extra" items such as auxiliary lights, etc.
In the above diagram, replace the "to sidelight" by your OEM auxiliary relay (pin 86). Pin 30 would be connected to a fuse block or individual fuse. Thus you could add more extra relays that are powered by your OEM auxiliary relay without any problems.