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Spot On

Thanks for all the info and great explanations (especially on how to make quality connections). Included is my primitive drawing of my wiring plan. Thanks again
If you go to my post #50 of this thread, look at the third photo, you will see the spare drilled and taped mounting, you could use this as a central ground point.
You could also go one step further however it is overkill, I ran a short bonding jumper, from engine ground up to this drilled and taped point, this became a central grounding point stud for all my extra wiring. The main reason is steel is a poor conductor, that is you need about 3 times more steel than copper for the same current.
Next if you are using the Kawi location in the front, you could do the following using the original wiring plug/connector :

#1 Your drawing wire #30, cut the original wire back from the socket about 2 inches, connect your fused wire @15 amp to the socket side of the wire.
#2 The original wire to that socket , that remains could be a USB outlet/ GPS, live all the time, it comes from the main fuse, so provided this load will be unplugged when you stop the bike. I will have a alternate at the end of this post
#3 Your 87 out, cut the wire about the same as step #1 , you can either add a fuse holder and fuse at 5 amp, or tape off the wire, alternate method below will make this step unneeded .

Alternate Method, leave the auxiliary wiring plug and circuit intact.Use that relay output to power a USB outlet and a GPS and we will call a third connection out off this as AUX-O

Buy a second relay, run your 15 amp circuit to #30, your output #87 goes to your lights and heated grips, your grips should have come with a waterproof fuse holder, I zip tied it to the round crossbar that is visible just ahead of the forks, this way if the fuse ever blew, no need to take the plastic off.This way your grips have a separate fuse, I would suggest to get a separate fuse holder for your lights, that gets inserted between #87 and your lights, again make sure you leave yourself with sufficient wire, that too could be mounted on the crossbar, one left side one right side.Somewhere I have pictures, the reason for individual secondary fusing is say you crash or a wire to your fog light wears through/ goes to ground, instead of blowing the 15 amp fuse.

You are going to take AUX-O and connect it to your second relay terminal #86, you are going to have a main ground you brought forward from the taped central ground point, using a electricians marette / wire connector, all the negative/ ground connections can be made, using 1 connector. Your #85 of this second relay is connected to this ground point as well.

(8 amp light fuse / 5 amp heated grips fuse ,included these ratings so you understand fuse co-ordination)The 15 amp fuse is to protect the wire feeding the relay, all the secondary fusing needs to be as close as possible to the actual load, i.e. if you had a 10 amp fuse instead of 8 amp, a short may take out the 15 amp fuse if you had the heated grips turned on, as there is what is described as inrush current ( not going to go into detail here, very complicated and beyond most electricians understanding), this way your heated grips would continue to work .

Any questions post them:grin2:
 

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Thanks for all the info and great explanations (especially on how to make quality connections). Included is my primitive drawing of my wiring plan. Thanks again
The only comment I would make is that you do not need to run the negative side of the additional relay all the way back to the battery - the relay coil only is milliamps of current. Just find a convenient place up front to ground to the frame. I would just place the additional relay near the aux relay to make the wiring shorter. You could even tape the two relays together. That way you just need to run one wire from the battery (+) to the additional relay.
 

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Changed the horn to the Denali. Literally a 5 minute swap. Not as low sounding as I had expected from reading other posts, but better than the "meep meep" roadrunner-like sound of the original.





 

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Threw in the Kawi DC outlet and relay today. I thought perhaps I could do it without removing the windshield but quickly learned this was impossible. This was beyond easy. It's so nice to have power at your fingertips.







 

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Over the weekend I put on the Pyramid Plastics "Extenda Fenda" that I ordered from Moto Machines when I ordered the Ermax hugger. I bought this mainly to bump up my cart checkout total to get free shipping on the Ermax, and I'm glad I did. This went on super easy and was actually fun to add to the bike. I took my time (about 30 min) and the result looks factory. It rained a bit on Labor Day and when the sun came out I took the V for a ride. The streets were wet and this fender extension really helped to keep spray out of the front manifold area. Every Versys should have this.

The unit comes with double-sided tape for holding the unit to the fender while you install the rivets. To get better access, I un-clamped the brake lines and loosened the fender.


I added RTV silicone to the area with the tape for a better seal.


The rivets supplied by Pyramid are small and made of cheap plastic. I didn't trust them so I used actual steel rivets.


My rivets appeared nearly the same as the ones used by Kawi. Any hardware store will carry them.


I put one rivet on each side and then turned the wheel to put one directly in the center rear. I then reattached the lines and fender.


Beautiful!
 

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Awesome. Thanks for the help.

I figured it might be with the three wires going into it.

Goodbye gear indicator, hello lights.

Before hooking up your lights to it, you need to determine if the gear indicator circuit can handle it. I suspect the electrical current requirement of the auxiliary lights is a heck of a lot more than that of the gear indicator. If the gear indicator wiring is designed for the lower amperage requirement of the indicator, current draw from the lights could fry the circuit or cause repeated need to replace a fuse.

I got around worrying about whether or not the OEM circuits could handle auxiliary electrical items by installing my own auxiliary circuitry (Thread located HERE). It was very easy to do. I did it so that I could use the proper gauge wire and fuses:



I later added a volt meter (Datel DMS-20PC-1) to make sure I didn't stress the charging system, especially when using my heated clothing:
 

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I would say away from that white connector and look at the 4 slots black connector.

Buy the relay that is just for that purpose then you can use the 2 aux wire dangling just under the dashboard connector. See http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/178-modifications-performance-v-650/29482-neat-little-voltmeter-review-3.html#post1342497



(In theory according to electric diagram) The white connector would be ok for hacking the voltmeter in. The black/yellow is the ground, the black/white is the ignitition-switched 12V (behind a 10A fuse). I just don't know how you could plug in reliably without vibration

disconnecting you.


I already have the relay installed and tapped into the power outlet connection for my 3BR USB charger.

Is the 5A “Accessory” fuse under the seat the one for that circuit?

Thanks for all of the help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I already have the relay installed and tapped into the power outlet connection for my 3BR USB charger.

Is the 5A “Accessory” fuse under the seat the one for that circuit?

Thanks for all of the help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just answered my own question...

I had a look at the wiring diagram and it shows the accessory relay circuit being protected by that 5A “Accessory” fuse in “Fuse Box 2”.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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How To Forum / Waiting for Edit

This is fairly time consuming, what I am now doing is moving active topics from the How to thread, where we had a redirect to what I called active discussion has been combined into one thread in the Technical Discussion / How To Posts/ All Models

This is what you see with a link, in the How To Forum, also Titles are identical,

Active thread post
Here is the active thread where further questions and discussions can take place. From time to time updates get copied to this thread, intent is to keep all discussions in the technical discussion thread, as posting count restrictions limit this thread to long time members


Many are unaware , new members with under I think 20 posts are restricted to other forums for posting. They can't post or start a new thread in the How To Forum. The How To Forum is becoming what my original design was, a place to store directions and photos on how to do a certain project without needing to scroll through 20 posts of agreeing members . It did lack a place to ask questions, plus when a new post was made in Versys 650 Technical , I either stuck the thread or copied the post to a appropriate thread in the How To Forum.

We now have
Technical Discussion / How To Posts/ All Models

I intend to move appropriate posts here from the How To Forum, then remove what I call clutter and copy those photos and instructions to the How To Forum.
 

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Relay Wiring/ Free Wheeling Diode

Basically, the relay IS the switch.

A relay uses a small current to switch a bigger current. This way you can use a lighter duty switch to control a current that would burn out a small switch. Or is helps keep from running fat wires to the bars for a heavy duty switch to power high power driving lights, etc. In this case, it uses the automatically controlled small current from your accessory circuit to switch on the power to the heated grips. When you turn on the bike, power is switched on to the grip controller. Likewise when you turn off the bike, power to the controller is cut.

The controller for the grips has an "off" position, right? That's your switch. I don't know why you would need another switch. The relay will prevent power from reaching the controller and draining the battery when the bike is off.

So...
Look at the diagram. When you put power across terminals 85 and 86, it closes the switch between 30 and 87.
Note: I don't know where those numbers came from but they seem to be common in any typical automotive relay you get from any auto parts store.
So, you run a wire from that accessory circuit you found on your bike to terminal 86 on the relay. Run a wire from 85 to the frame to ground it. Run the power wire from the battery to terminal 30 and from 87 to the grip controller.

I'm on my way out the door and therefore do not have time to draw up a diagram. However the following should give you a good idea of what I'm using.
Note: In my first response, I had not mentioned that I use an auxiliary fuse panel for the "extra" items such as auxiliary lights, etc.



In the above diagram, replace the "to sidelight" by your OEM auxiliary relay (pin 86). Pin 30 would be connected to a fuse block or individual fuse. Thus you could add more extra relays that are powered by your OEM auxiliary relay without any problems.

Good luck!
Something I missed , two drawings, both correct, the first with a discharge diode or free wheeling diode, connected in reverse to act as a arc quench from the collapsing magnetic field of the relay coil.


 

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I installed one of the cheap 'marine' rated USB chargers, in pretty much the same way as the video linked above. It had great reviews on Amazon from many riders. It stopped functioning when I needed it most, with virtually zero hours actually using it. Eventually I took it apart and some component (capacitor IIRC) had snapped at the solder joint. So I had to re-solder it, and I decided to reflow the rest of the joints. Then I sealed those joints with with some 2-part epoxy. I finished it off by sealing the casing shut in the same epoxy. Maybe not the best way to resolve it, but it's functioned perfectly since.

Now I also carry a USB charger that can be plugged into that standard battery plug to hook up your trickle charger. I forget what they're called. Sometimes, it pays to just spend a little extra coin on a better piece of kit. And to double-up on things you might rely on.
 
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