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Joseph

Would you say that info are year specific ?
If so, was it for your 2008 ??

LOP

Thats what it was for my 2009. Don't know if they changed it for the newer bikes.
 

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I prefer not splicing the OEM wires, so usually I buy 2 connectors, male and female, and I make my own loop that I interpose between the OEM connectors.
I can splice my own wires, and I can revert to original harness in less than 1 min.

That's what I did on my 2009 with the Back-Off module that I removed and mounted on my 2015, also the wires for turn signal, connected with a relay and powering the LED strips with the turn signal.
 

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I bought the Admore LED kit for the GIVI rear case. I like the idea of not cutting into the original wiring. Where did you obtain the correct connectors for the tail light?
 

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I have the LT, and was about to install a 12v outlet when I saw this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7jFCTW9IXNE

At about 8:45 into the video he breaks the USB port because the hand guards clip the usb cable. Just curious if anyone else has encountered this? I'd prefer the dash install, but if this is an issue then I guess I'll go with bar mount or frame.
I installed a cigarette lighter socket. It has the correct length wires with bullet connectors already installed. It requires NO wiring - just plugs into the two wires already in the dash reserved for the accessory socket and it is only $10!
Amazon.com: BikeMaster 12V/15A Standard Cigarette Lighter Socket for Power Supply TC-6613WA: Automotive

You can remove the socket cover and install the socket by only taking off the windshield and the cover underneath the shield. You need a short philips screwdriver to remove the screw holding the blank plug in place in the dash. You can then easily install the new socket and connect the wires. The wires are taped together to a small frame near the accessory socket. They are red/white and black/yellow if I remember correctly.

Once the socket is installed you will notice that you have very little clearance to the handguards, but this is manageable if you take precautions. My new phone takes a USB-C connector, so I used this plug to charge my phone:

Amazon.com: USB Type C Car charger, Nekteck 5.4A USB-C Car Charger Adapter with Integrated Built-in Type-C 3.1 Cord for Apple Macbook 12 Inch, LG G5, Nexus 5X 6P and More, Black: Cell Phones & Accessories

It is pricey (but still dirt cheap relative to Kawasaki accessories), but it will do a fast charge on my Nexus 6P phone. The USB C cable built into the plug also exits the plug at a right angle (very important!). The USB B port on the top can be used with a right angle USB cable if necessary. I am not currently using it, but this cable should do the job (and it is a coil cable!).

http://www.amazon.com/MOTONG-design-Samsung-Charging-transferring-Black/dp/B00P7YHRNW/ref=sr_1_13?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1460113377&sr=1-13&keywords=Micro-B+Male+Right+Angle+USB+cable%2C+Sync+%26+Charging+Micro+USB+Cable%2C

The USB-C plug that I am using clears the handguards by at least an inch.

Overall it was an easy install saving about $70 by not buying the Kawasaki plug. You will also need a relay - I splurged $17 for the official Kawasaki accessory relay kit.
 

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For turn signal on 2009 I had Sumitomo .050 connectors

Sumitomo .050 connectors

Not sure yet if 2015 has the same, but I'll check soon.
2015 uses same connectors - Sumitomo 2 Pin HB .050 Turn Signal Connector.
Honda - Kawasaki Motorcycle Turn Signal Connectors
I highly recommend Cycle Terminal. They are in New Jersey and ship the same day.
The only difference I can find in the 2015 wiring is in the headlight. The 2015 uses a H7 connector, and does not use the H4 to H7 adapter.
 

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My Outlets As Of May 2016

So I have been approached / asked by a few members to show what I have done, and possibly explain how.I picked this thread, started by me in the hopes it is possible to find in a couple months. Why I mention this, much like the burnt stater thread / sticky, lots of good information, comments pictures, directions, explanations, some off topic, provided you have several days to wade through it all.
Later it may get better

So for today I am going to post pictures and start with some text, as time permits I will edit and add more info.

Photo #1&2 are my 12 VDC direct outlet fused at 30 amp, for my compressor

Photo #3 to 5 is my coax connector for my Gerbing jacket, fused at 10 amp, dual wireless controller on seat, fits in my jacket pocket when in use

Photo #6 &7 on left is a second 12 VDC outlet fused at 5 amp with a USB adapter plugged in** red led

Photo# 9 is the inside of my main distribution showing the fuses and my GPS 12 volt adapter, green led on the left side

Photo #10 is the fuse wire for the dash mounted 12 VDC lighter plug, wire tied on cross bar by high beam headlight

Photo #11 & 12 are the fuse holder of #10

Photo #13 another view with the USB adapter and cable, showing plenty of clearance around Barkbuster guards

Photo #14 another overview of the same outlet plus fuse wire

Photo #15 my LED voltage monitor below my engine temperature gauge showing 190'F
 

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Nice job and thanks for sharing!

I want to do this to my bike but I have a question.

Does anyone know the size of the bullet connector needed?

I went to buy it and I saw that there are different sizes (2mm, 3,5mm, 4mm...)

Thanks!
 

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No Need to Remove Windshield

remove wind shield to access this panel to remov e it


then remove 2 bolts and 2 push pins



then grab these two holes and pull foward


relay location and wires to connect to it
Excellent write up and pictures, if you have the windshield at the highest setting the panel can easily be removed without removing the windscreen. BTW for those that do remove , check to see if you have a wavy washer plus a flat washer, most if not all 2015 have been shipped without this, FastEddie noted this in a write up under 2015 Versys. Without that washer, your knobs will vibrate loose and vanish , along with a possible loss of the shield.
 

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Nice job and thanks for sharing!

I want to do this to my bike but I have a question.

Does anyone know the size of the bullet connector needed?

I went to buy it and I saw that there are different sizes (2mm, 3,5mm, 4mm...)

Thanks!
I'm not sure what model Versys you have, but if you have a 2015, this socket comes with a harness and the correct bullet connectors to plug into the stock harness. It is truly plug and play. I am not sure what size the bullet connectors are, though.

https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Standard-Cigarette-Lighter-TC-6613WA/dp/B0031793XO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00&tag=vs-powersports-convert-amazon-20
 

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So I have contacted my local Kawasaki dealer and the relay kit is on back order until November. I don't want to wait that long, but am worried about using an aftermarket part. Does anyone have any experience using any other relays? I wanted the plug and go convenience of OEM parts but really want to do something sooner.
 

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So I have contacted my local Kawasaki dealer and the relay kit is on back order until November. I don't want to wait that long, but am worried about using an aftermarket part. Does anyone have any experience using any other relays? I wanted the plug and go convenience of OEM parts but really want to do something sooner.
Order it from somewhere else. Here it is for $18: RELAY KIT from Kawasaki Full-Line Accessories

I ordered mine from Powersports Warehouse.

A generic relay would work fine and cost a lot less but you'll need to hack up your own wiring to use it.
 

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Basically, the relay IS the switch.

A relay uses a small current to switch a bigger current. This way you can use a lighter duty switch to control a current that would burn out a small switch. Or is helps keep from running fat wires to the bars for a heavy duty switch to power high power driving lights, etc. In this case, it uses the automatically controlled small current from your accessory circuit to switch on the power to the heated grips. When you turn on the bike, power is switched on to the grip controller. Likewise when you turn off the bike, power to the controller is cut.

The controller for the grips has an "off" position, right? That's your switch. I don't know why you would need another switch. The relay will prevent power from reaching the controller and draining the battery when the bike is off.

So...
Look at the diagram. When you put power across terminals 85 and 86, it closes the switch between 30 and 87.
Note: I don't know where those numbers came from but they seem to be common in any typical automotive relay you get from any auto parts store.
So, you run a wire from that accessory circuit you found on your bike to terminal 86 on the relay. Run a wire from 85 to the frame to ground it. Run the power wire from the battery to terminal 30 and from 87 to the grip controller.

 
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