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Fuseblock Mounting

12K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  trashysquid  
#1 · (Edited)
After having put many electrical accessories on my Honda ST1300 I quickly realized the value of a separate fused panel for adding these things. So, this is the first thing I have done on my new Versys that I picked up yesterday.

It is a simple matter to splice into the tail light wire under the seat at the rear and add a mulitple fuse block. When you wire it into the tail light, all accessories attached to the fuse block automatically shut down and don't run down the battery. If you need to run something while the bike is not running, simply turn the key to Accessory and whatever is hooked to the fuse block will run.

I mounted this on top of the "daily check" list under the seat toward the rear. It was a natural place, next the the tail light wire (which is red) and tucked neatly out of the way. It was attached by drilling two (2) 3/16" holes using the fuse block as a guide and attaching the block with two 3/16" x 1 1/4" screws with star washers and nuts on the bottom.

Now if you want to hook up anything electrical you simply attach your Positive wire to the block and attach your ground wire to a bolt or nut under the seat.

I have attached pictures and you can get the fuse block at O'relly auto parts. You can see the fuse block catalog numbers in the pictures. It was about $7.00 and in stock. I'm sure you can get it at other auto stores or one like it.

Hope this helps some of you with future projects.
 
#4 ·
Do you think that heated grips tied onto the accessory or to the taillight +12v will draw enough power to dim the tail light or brake lights under full load? If so is there an unused switched 12v somewhere that I might tack onto? Thanks in advance!

I have some pics of my install here for the cig. outlet. ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/woodenjetty/sets/72157608365548502/ ) I chose to go off the battery so that I always have power available, though I know that its a little risky in terms of a short ruining your plans to go for a ride after a rainy day. Luckily mine came with shrink wrap and everything else I needed to make it as water resistant as possible
 
#5 ·
I have no idea about how it will effect the lights. It all goes back to how many amps you are pulling and then correspond that to the size of the wire you are tapping into. I personally don't use heated gloves or seats so my requirements for power to such things as a GPS or radio are a lot different to those putting heavy demands on their bikes.

That's about all the help I can give you and maybe some more techies on this board can lend some brain cells toward your question.
 
#6 ·
If you want to add heavy duty accessories like a heated jacket liner or accessory lighting you'll want to go with a beefier setup like a CenTech power panel. I wrote about it here: Centech Power Panel

The power panel can be purchased with an installation kit that includes a relay. You wire that into a circuit such as the head light which I used because it doesn't come on until the engine is running. Making electrical connections with either DallasDon's fuse block idea or the Centech is snap and no more rat's nest of wires coming off of your battery.

The Centech setup is also quite a bit more costly - I believe I paid almost $85.00 for the panel and the installation kit.
 
#8 ·
I installed a 4 fuse fusebox from Eastern Beaver. I too used a relay. The power to the relay comes from the tail light circuit. The main power to the fusebox comes from the battery. So there is no heavy load on the tail light circuit.

I have my Zumo, heated grips, and heated vest connector all wired to it. The remaining spot is for a 12V socket (when I get around to it).

I recommend the Eastern Beaver kits. Also, he carries a great line of Posi-Lock connectors that are great for splicing, etc.

-Alan
 
#11 ·
Not much of a sailor but the Blue Sea worked really well on the FJR and I mounted it under the seat. The FJR battery is so buried that it took a bit of work to get at. It's almost a 30 minute job to expose it. I used it for a couple of farkles and a powerlet outlet to plug in the battery tender. I think it can be had for less than 30.00.
 
#12 ·
General question on this topic; I've got to wire the electrical connection to a Garmin GPS I've just fitted (works on the internal battery at the moment). I'm hoping there's an existing 'spare' electrical spur which can supply the power and keep the Garmin charged. Problem is that I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere; there's an unused bullet connector on the right hand side under the seat, with an orange and black wire. This does (when checked with a meter) supply power when the ignition is on, but it seems not to supply the full 12V for some reason and doesn't seem to be enough for the Garmin to like it. Anyone have the proper info on it, or a wiring diagram or real info on this topic?