Kawasaki Versys Forum banner
21 - 40 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
2019 Kawasaki Versys 650 LT
Joined
·
166 Posts
Growing up on dirt bikes, I generally avoided using the front brake until I started street riding. But he may just have not wanted to admit knowing about the problem without disclosing it to you. All the more reason to look beyond the obvious to make sure you have a safe machine.

Does the front still wear factory rubber? A likely time for rotor damage is mishandling the wheel when it’s removed from the bike. Factory rubber up front could indicate the wheel has not been removed. Also check the cotter pin. If the ends are fully wrapped around the axle nut, that would also point towards maybe the front wheel never being removed.
I’m not sure how to damage a rotor on the bike, short of major trauma. I’d strongly recommend close and thorough inspection of the front end. Not trying to scare you. Just make sure all is well so you have peace of mind. I’d be especially concerned if there is no indication the front wheel has been removed
Do you think if the front fork wasn't properly seated could be a cause? This is from my 650 manual but was same on the Harley I had as well
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,053 Posts
I did some sanding and cleaning on the rotor.
When I say sand I would use a small thin sanding block for levelling with 220 grit emory paper wet/dry and spin the wheel freely...
That was the first thing I addressed for the pulsing. Some bobbins were stuck but didn't make a difference. The more metallic brake pads fixed it for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
When I say sand I would use a small thin sanding block for levelling with 220 grit emory paper wet/dry and spin the wheel freely...

That was the first thing I addressed for the pulsing. Some bobbins were stuck but didn't make a difference. The more metallic brake pads fixed it for me.
Thanks, new pads will be my next step. Can you recommend a specific brand/type?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Warped rotor.
My 08 has a warped rotor on one side from when it was knocked over a concrete parking lot brick by a lady not watching where she backed her suv. I had it checked by a machine shop.

The warp is only in the thousandths, but it's horrid braking at speed. I just never replaced it because bobbin rotors are freaking expensive, and I've been told that replacing front rotors requires doing both at once because of uneven wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
I've had pulsing on my V1K ever since I got it in 2019. It was noticeable, but didn't seem to affect overall stopping. Either I've grown accustomed to it, or it has diminished over the 25,000+ miles I've put on the bike. I'll be going on a 200 mile day trip to Cripple Creek, CO tomorrow, will report back on whether or not it's still there...
 

·
Premium Member
2022 Versys X 300
Joined
·
75 Posts
Which pads do you recommend?
I run ceramic from Sixity on everything. If they don't make them for a specific model, I use Caltric or Volar. EBC also makes ceramic pads if that's the brand you prefer. There's a reason racers use Sintered metal pads, they do have more bite, but racers are not the least bit concerned with rotor longevity. Even buying used off eBay, my Nomad rotors were very expensive and I'm happy with the braking power from the Sixity ceramics on there now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I run ceramic from Sixity on everything. If they don't make them for a specific model, I use Caltric or Volar. EBC also makes ceramic pads if that's the brand you prefer. There's a reason racers use Sintered metal pads, they do have more bite, but racers are not the least bit concerned with rotor longevity. Even buying used off eBay, my Nomad rotors were very expensive and I'm happy with the braking power from the Sixity ceramics on there now.
Thanks, going ceramic makes sense, though I've never heard anyone say sintered kills rotors, and I work for a BMW Motorrad magazine. I've got the pulsation down to I guess tolerable levels by doing a lot of cleaning (9k on bike), but I am still going to shop for new pads. I've owned more than 20 bikes, most beemers, without ever experiencing this problem, so freaked out a little. At least I've learned a lot from this forum!
 

·
Premium Member
2022 Versys X 300
Joined
·
75 Posts
Thanks, going ceramic makes sense, though I've never heard anyone say sintered kills rotors, and I work for a BMW Motorrad magazine. I've got the pulsation down to I guess tolerable levels by doing a lot of cleaning (9k on bike), but I am still going to shop for new pads. I've owned more than 20 bikes, most beemers, without ever experiencing this problem, so freaked out a little. At least I've learned a lot from this forum!
What I'm saying for the record is Sintered metal pads killed three of my rotors, YRMV... And they weren't on the bike long, it was just one set of pads, not multiple consecutive sets.

As for your pulsation issue, it's almost certainly in the rotor, not the pads. There's no way for your pads to vary their grip on the rotor in a set spot each revolution of the wheel, but your rotor can be warped, bent, scuffed, improperly cast, etc...or not seated evenly. Has the rotor ever been removed?
 

·
Registered
2019 Kawasaki Versys 650 LT
Joined
·
166 Posts
What I'm saying for the record is Sintered metal pads killed three of my rotors, YRMV... And they weren't on the bike long, it was just one set of pads, not multiple consecutive sets.

As for your pulsation issue, it's almost certainly in the rotor, not the pads. There's no way for your pads to vary their grip on the rotor in a set spot each revolution of the wheel, but your rotor can be warped, bent, scuffed, improperly cast, etc...or not seated evenly. Has the rotor ever been removed?
I don't know if it could make a difference but what if who ever had his tire off before didn't seat the right fork properly could create an ever slight angle. See my post #22 instructions from the manual. Wouldn't take much to do and could be the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I don't know if it could make a difference but what if who ever had his tire off before didn't seat the right fork properly could create an ever slight angle. See my post #22 instructions from the manual. Wouldn't take much to do and could be the problem.
Is that a page from a Versys-X 300 shop manual? Is the "clamp bolt" referring to the bolt secured with a cotter pin?
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Top