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Discussion Starter #1
So, time for the first tire change on the bike. Took my wheels off with no issue besides needing to go find a 14mm Allen bit for the front axle. Went to put the front axle back in so it’s secure while I’m getting the tires changed out, and the threads won’t bite. Threads aren’t damaged on the axle and I ran my finger inside the end of the fork and couldn’t feel any damage on those threads either. Any thoughts on why it won’t thread in?
 

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Likely just a slight misalignment. Without the wheel as a guide the axle is probably touching the fork making it contact the threads at an angle. Don't force it or you may create damage. Under fork stands can cause the problem too, making one side higher or lower. 2014+ 650 also only use one for spring.
 

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The very fine threads require perfect alignment to get started.

I don't use a paddock stand on the front wheel. Instead I use a pair of ratchet straps on the handle bars to lift the front tire just barely off the ground.

Got a pair of heavy duty hooks screwed into the ceiling joists to accomplish the task.

A little extra work but it gives you unencumbered access to the front end of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. Yeah, I’m using a paddock stand under the forks. End of the axle threads just spins against the end of the internal threads. Gotta pick up some grease this morning, then I’m gonna try reinstalling the wheels, see how it goes.

2014+ 650 also only use one for spring.
What do you mean by this?
 

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2018 Versys 650

Thanks guys. Yeah, I’m using a paddock stand under the forks. End of the axle threads just spins against the end of the internal threads. Gotta pick up some grease this morning, then I’m gonna try reinstalling the wheels, see how it goes.



What do you mean by this?
So did some digging, you have a 2018. I am not sure what you mean by paddock stand, if you are referring to something like a pit stand, that is very dangerous, particularly on the MK-3 , if on the other hand you mean a tripple tree stand , no worries.
There is a out, several people have used a hydraulic jack and a piece of plywood under the exhaust to lift the front. You should have a second person standing by. The other option is leave things alone untill the wheel returns. The problem is the clutch side shock contains the spring, which happens to be the side with the threads in it. If when you took the wheel off, that it was in the air, no worries, what will happen is the weight of the wheel will pull the right side shock down equal to the same distance as the clutch side shock, you may need to lever the tire up a bit, turn that shaft by hand, until you are certain the threads are started.
I have a Venom stand for that, and truthfully when I lowered my bike, I almost lost my clutch handle and a finger. I raised my right side shock, the left side let go like a bullet, there I was by myself, bike heading for the concrete, the clutch cable stopped it. I came up with a way of pressing the shock back into the triple tree. Then I purchased the Venom stand for future work.
 

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Same problem here using a front stand from below. The forks compress at different rates. Bought a cable rachet puller for $30Can at Crappy tire and hoisted the front from the handlebars from a rafter in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So did some digging, you have a 2018. I am not sure what you mean by paddock stand, if you are referring to something like a pit stand, that is very dangerous, particularly on the MK-3 , if on the other hand you mean a tripple tree stand , no worries.
There is a out, several people have used a hydraulic jack and a piece of plywood under the exhaust to lift the front. You should have a second person standing by. The other option is leave things alone untill the wheel returns. The problem is the clutch side shock contains the spring, which happens to be the side with the threads in it. If when you took the wheel off, that it was in the air, no worries, what will happen is the weight of the wheel will pull the right side shock down equal to the same distance as the clutch side shock, you may need to lever the tire up a bit, turn that shaft by hand, until you are certain the threads are started.
I have a Venom stand for that, and truthfully when I lowered my bike, I almost lost my clutch handle and a finger. I raised my right side shock, the left side let go like a bullet, there I was by myself, bike heading for the concrete, the clutch cable stopped it. I came up with a way of pressing the shock back into the triple tree. Then I purchased the Venom stand for future work.
This is what I mean. Hadn’t noticed it before, but now that I’ve read what you said and looked at this angle, I can see the ends aren’t even.
 

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I have always had trouble with this until I stuck a long flathead screwdriver into the threaded end of the axle (fortunately hollow) to help align the thing with threads in that fork. Previously I had budgeted 20mins of cussing and praying to get the front axle back in, using the screwdriver last time it genuinely took 2 mins, and I was elated. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@onewizard This is also the first time I’ve seen reference to a MK 3. I’d always though up through 2014 was Gen 1 and 2015-2020 was Gen 2. I just went off a YT video I found of someone taking the wheels off a 2016.
 

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Caution

This is what I mean. Hadn’t noticed it before, but now that I’ve read what you said and looked at this angle, I can see the ends aren’t even.
Trust me , that is extremely dangerous, especially on the MK-3. All the front downward force is on the clutch side shock. Don't believe me, you can raise the throttle side probably 6 inches, very little effort. So it is like a horse with a missing front right leg.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Trust me , that is extremely dangerous, especially on the MK-3. All the front downward force is on the clutch side shock. Don't believe me, you can raise the throttle side probably 6 inches, very little effort. So it is like a horse with a missing front right leg.
I believe you. What’s my best bet for fixing this?
 

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I believe you. What’s my best bet for fixing this?
I would take a 2X4 about 2 feet long, use a car scissor jack and a hydraulic jack, just the very front of the catalytic converter, about 1.5 inches with no shield, Use two jacks and raise evenly until you shift weight to the jacks. I hope you have a pit stand in place on the rear. Will find a link and post back shortly,

Here is my rear pit stand, the 2X4 was there to support the tire while removing the axle, the rear brake caliper uses the axle and a cast guide in the swing arm, that needs to be removed, much easier with the tire supported. Going back in, have the 2X4 the long way, you are driving the wheel forward into position, keep in mind, the wood thickness is determined at the start of removal.



This is my Venom stand, used in conjunction with the pit stand.



my stand in operation
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1440634-post119.html


See post 122 of this thread https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/121554-stands-pit-bull-venom-stands-jacking-other-methods-4.html be aware the balance point is forward of the hole with the pipe through it. anything from that hole towards the rear including using the footpegs will shift more weight onto the forks. The front part of the muffler is the correct spot. roughly 150 to 200LBS at the forks.

same idea with the wood




scissor jack https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1608357-post7.html

This one using hydraulic floor jack and wood ;
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1298130-post25.html



From post 122 of this thread https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/121554-stands-pit-bull-venom-stands-jacking-other-methods-4.html


 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, the rear has spools up on a stand. As for jacking it up, would a better bet be to use my crash bars? I’ll attach some pics of it below. I’ll have to double check when I get home tonight, but the bike may also be positioned right to be able to hoist it from above if that’s a less sketchy option than jacking it up like that. For future wheel removals, I just ordered a triple tree stand.
 

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Yes, the rear has spools up on a stand. As for jacking it up, would a better bet be to use my crash bars? I’ll attach some pics of it below. I’ll have to double check when I get home tonight, but the bike may also be positioned right to be able to hoist it from above if that’s a less sketchy option than jacking it up like that. For future wheel removals, I just ordered a triple tree stand.
Make sure you get the correct 27mm pin my Venom stand I had to specify I think kit #2.
Overhead would be best, two points on the handle bars, just to be in case of a oops.

Just looked, you got crash bars, if you have two jack stands, put em underneath. Possibly shim up a bit, if something lets go, no worries. Due note about the wood under the tire, I learned the hard way, lots of 4 letter words trying to get the axle through, lift the wheel etc. . Wood under, use a pry bar or long slot screwdriver, act as a fulcrum to raise the wheel . very easy coming out, almost impossible to see where the axle thread is in relation to the threaded portion of the shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Yeah, I get that about the wood. I put my foot under the tires for the same reason taking them off.

Edit: looks like I ordered the wrong stand. Just found this in the description
 

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Kit #2 https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1396562-post10.html Of this thread https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/130346-front-stand.html
Copied from @quexpress
You need to get a Venom Motorcycle Triple Tree Headlift Lift Stand Attachment For Motorcycle Front Wheel Lift Stand (Pin Kit #2).

Note: It has the 27 m pin that is used on our Versys.

If you already have the triple tree stand, just order the Headlift Pins Kit #2 for Venom Motorcycle Triple Tree Headlift Lift Stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Kit #2 https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1396562-post10.html Of this thread https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/130346-front-stand.html
Copied from @quexpress
You need to get a Venom Motorcycle Triple Tree Headlift Lift Stand Attachment For Motorcycle Front Wheel Lift Stand (Pin Kit #2).

Note: It has the 27 m pin that is used on our Versys.

If you already have the triple tree stand, just order the Headlift Pins Kit #2 for Venom Motorcycle Triple Tree Headlift Lift Stand.
I found the venom stand on amazon, but there isn’t an option to get it with kit #2. Only option is to buy a second set of pins separately.
 

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Turn the handlebars slightly (via the stand). This is a bit perilous, I know.

Because of rake angle, one of the fork tube is pushed farther than the other.
If the left is more extended, turn to left an inch or so.

Remember the ground spot and the stand angle for next time you lift, so that you will are already be in a lined up state.
 

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Amazon

I found the venom stand on amazon, but there isn’t an option to get it with kit #2. Only option is to buy a second set of pins separately.
This seller lists it top left, most have the option, although I couldn't find any sellers with just the front. I was made aware of this by several members, so I requested the correct pins at no extra charge , notice this seller says pin kit #2 in brackets
https://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Triple-Swingarm-CBR1000RR/dp/B01N0GSV16/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?dchild=1&keywords=venom+tripple+tree+stand+kit+#2&qid=1584707804&sr=8-1-fkmr2&swrs=A17DB809EDFE4F03E8148E0D60C0C59E
 
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