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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Two questions here. I'm replacing my front rubber and I got as far as losing the small front binder bolt but the axle bolt is a size that is not in my tool box. I have a 11mm hex but it appears about 2 sizes to small. What size is the axle bolt? The kawasaki shop manual does not state the size only to loosen! The second question is about the calipers. Do they need to be removed? It appears that with the bike in a track stand the wheel will just slide right out without having to remove. NEVER MIND ITS IN THE STICKIES>>>>>
 

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Which I found on Easter Sunday at an Autozone. Also may I suggest a 6pt. socket instead of a twelve on the caliper bolts.

Have a Great Night!

:)
 

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I ran into this the first time I went to change my front tire. I did not have a 14mm allen wrench, nor is there one in the toolkit. I live in a small town that wouldn't have such a tool available anywhere. I went to the local hardware store and bought a 3/8" "coupler nut". This is a nut that is about 2 inches long for connecting 2 pieces of 3/8 threaded rod. It's outside measurement is 9/16", which is very close to 14mm. It was a snug fit in the axle (you can sand or wirebrush the outside a little to fit). You insert it into the axle and use a 14mm socket and there you go! HTH
 

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9/16" = 14.2875 mm
I figured that could be a tight fit. Good idea, Micheal. Much cheaper than a 14 mm hex tool too.
 

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I ran into this the first time I went to change my front tire. I did not have a 14mm allen wrench, nor is there one in the toolkit. I live in a small town that wouldn't have such a tool available anywhere. I went to the local hardware store and bought a 3/8" "coupler nut".
Thank you, perfect timing, I have to change the rotors :clap:
 

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About the coupler (or coupling) bolt: I went back to the hardware store yesterday to buy another and they were out of the one I originally bought. They had some other 3/8" couplers in another bin, but those were 5/8" outside measurement. Obviously, it is the outside measurement that is important to us. I looked around and found some 7/16" couplers that were 9/16" outside measurement. I bought a 2-pack for $3. When I got them home I found that they were a "fat" 9/16". They fit easily into my 14mm socket, but would not slip into the axle. I will need to run them on the belt sander to bring them down to axle size. The point is, your experience may vary, and some flexibility may be necessary to get the right result.

Later follow-up:

I did some measuring of the axle "hole" versus the coupler nuts. It is not the distance across the flats that is the problem, it is the distance across the points of the nut. The inside of the axle seems to be slightly rounded at the points of the hexagon. I used my bench grinder to round the points of the most recent coupler nuts I bought and they now work fine.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Heres a good set of hex head drivers for 38.00 bucks shipped. I too had trouble finding a 14mm but found a set on Amazon. Its a 10 Piece 3/8" Dr. Metric Hex Head Driver Set. Product Description 3/8" Dr. Hex Head Driver 4mm Hex Head Driver 5mm Hex Head Driver 6mm Hex Head Driver 7mm Hex Head Driver 8mm Hex Head Driver 10mm Hex Head Driver 12mm Hex Head Driver 14mm Hex Head Driver 16mm Hex Head Driver 17mm Hex Head Driver. Heres a link, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSDABG/ref=ox_ya_os_product
 

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I bought the 3 pc. set from auto zone on Easter Sunday. 1/2" socket drive. It was less than $20 and has a lifetime warranty.
 

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I am hoping and praying that the "mechanic" at the tire place did not strip my front axle after putting on my shinko 705's. He kept making comments about it being hard to turn and how he didnt have the right tool. I let him use the spark plug tool (which has a 14mm end on it) and that worked until he broke it.

He was putting the axle back in while the fork legs were on jack stands and I think its possible that one of them might have been somewhat askew. Anyways, he was only using small hand tools so I figured I would stop him before he did any damage.

I brought it home, went to the hardware store, bought the allen head socket and finished screwing it in. BUT, when I look in the other side I do see at least one piece of loose metal that very well could be a broken thread.

Here is my question, what is the likelyhood that he messed up the threads beyond repair?(I have a tap and dye kit)

The axle never became easy to turn (or broke loose), so I think that means that the threads never broke loose. What I am hoping is that, I can remove the axle and repair any fudged up threads with the dye and hopefully thread the axle back in smoothly.
 

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Make sure it's properly torqued to 80 ft-lbs (as tight as rear axle) with a proper 14mm hex tool... You can remove the axle to inspect and clean the threads on it and in the right fork. Your tap and dye set probably doesn't go that big.
 

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I guess this is a little known secret, the stud boss between the main frame and the swingarm pivot covers will remove the front axle as it's hex od IS 14mm. You guys have two with you at all times! Duh. This excludes you tailgunner?
 

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I guess this is a little known secret, the stud boss between the main frame and the swingarm pivot covers will remove the front axle as it's hex od IS 14mm. You guys have two with you at all times! Duh. This excludes you tailgunner?

I'm fairly new here. What is a "stud boss"?
 
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