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Discussion Starter #1
I raced Motocross for 10 years so I always modded my bikes no matter if its on or off road. If you want your bike to scream here you go. The first three mods are for Fueling and Exhaust, Dobeck EJK Controller (MFG P/N 8120169), Complete Full LeoVince Exhaust System (8579) with insert removed and a (PLE-404) Smart Moto PAIR/AIS Eliminator kit with Block Off plate. After installing all, I only had to richen the (Yellow) Mid Range on the controller from a 3 to a 4 and now it is an ANIMAL!!! The last thing you will need is a great set of Rubber. I run the Pirelli Angel GT's which have knee dragging stick almost like my Ninja's Pirelli Diablo Rosso's!!! I also have a video on YouTube about the PAIR VALVE removal, which is very important to do, so you get a correct AIR/FUEL mixture while tuning and thereafter. I like the Dobeck controller better than the Dynojet PCFC Fuel Controller which is on my Ninja because you have push buttons to adjust on the Dobeck rather than a tiny Phillips screwdriver in a tiny hole on the Dynojet. Ride On!
 

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I raced Motocross for 10 years so I always modded my bikes no matter if its on or off road. If you want your bike to scream here you go. The first three mods are for Fueling and Exhaust, Dobeck EJK Controller (MFG P/N 8120169), Complete Full LeoVince Exhaust System (8579) with insert removed and a (PLE-404) Smart Moto PAIR/AIS Eliminator kit with Block Off plate. After installing all, I only had to richen the (Yellow) Mid Range on the controller from a 3 to a 4 and now it is an ANIMAL!!! The last thing you will need is a great set of Rubber. I run the Pirelli Angel GT's which have knee dragging stick almost like my Ninja's Pirelli Diablo Rosso's!!! I also have a video on YouTube about the PAIR VALVE removal, which is very important to do, so you get a correct AIR/FUEL mixture while tuning and thereafter. I like the Dobeck controller better than the Dynojet PCFC Fuel Controller which is on my Ninja because you have push buttons to adjust on the Dobeck rather than a tiny Phillips screwdriver in a tiny hole on the Dynojet. Ride On!
Did you happen to do Dyno comps? Or is the info available somewhere? More about curiosity as I already have the Shoodaben flash and I don't like loud exhaust.

BTW, yours and my list are different. My top four are:

After market seat(Have a Seat Concepts, soon to be replaced by a Terry Adcox)
Shoodaben flash.
Real cruise control(I have the Rostra)
Windshield(I use a Madstad with an extra spoiler)

And one more:

Polaris regulator.

I did add up the mods and listed them somewhere on a thread on this forum. The total number is quite up there. I do a lot of touring on it, averaging almost 20k miles per year.
 

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You don't need just power to go fast :wink2: unless you just ride on a drag strip :frown2:
In Scotland we have lots of corners, so 4 good mods to start off with are:

1. Good grippy Sport/Touring Tyres.
2. Better brake pads - e.g. EBC HH.
3. Replacement / better rear Shock - e.g. - Wilbers 640 Road.
4. Upgraded front forks and drop the yokes down by 10mm to sharpen up the steering.
 

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I raced Motocross for 10 years so I always modded my bikes no matter if its on or off road. If you want your bike to scream here you go. The first three mods are for Fueling and Exhaust, Dobeck EJK Controller (MFG P/N 8120169), Complete Full LeoVince Exhaust System (8579) with insert removed and a (PLE-404) Smart Moto PAIR/AIS Eliminator kit with Block Off plate. After installing all, I only had to richen the (Yellow) Mid Range on the controller from a 3 to a 4 and now it is an ANIMAL!!! The last thing you will need is a great set of Rubber. I run the Pirelli Angel GT's which have knee dragging stick almost like my Ninja's Pirelli Diablo Rosso's!!! I also have a video on YouTube about the PAIR VALVE removal, which is very important to do, so you get a correct AIR/FUEL mixture while tuning and thereafter. I like the Dobeck controller better than the Dynojet PCFC Fuel Controller which is on my Ninja because you have push buttons to adjust on the Dobeck rather than a tiny Phillips screwdriver in a tiny hole on the Dynojet. Ride On!
I've used Dobeck's before (Vulcan 1600) and even though it was a great improvement, the Shoodabeen Flash is far superior. It does far more than just give more power, it gives you a far more usable power band which starts at 2000 rpm's and runs cleanly up until redline. The dreaded FI fuel shutoff (bucking bronco, usually in the middle of a turn) when you roll back the throttle is gone too.So much less hunting for the right gear and constantly watching the tach.Totally the best thing you can do for a Gen 3 Versys!
 

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You don't need just power to go fast :wink2: unless you just ride on a drag strip :frown2:
In Scotland we have lots of corners, so 4 good mods to start off with are:

1. Good grippy Sport/Touring Tyres.
2. Better brake pads - e.g. EBC HH.
3. Replacement / better rear Shock - e.g. - Wilbers 640 Road.
4. Upgraded front forks and drop the yokes down by 10mm to sharpen up the steering.
Agreed, - suspension and quality tires first and exhaust last... maybe, if ever 🤷‍♀️
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've used Dobeck's before (Vulcan 1600) and even though it was a great improvement, the Shoodabeen Flash is far superior. It does far more than just give more power, it gives you a far more usable power band which starts at 2000 rpm's and runs cleanly up until redline. The dreaded FI fuel shutoff (bucking bronco, usually in the middle of a turn) when you roll back the throttle is gone too.So much less hunting for the right gear and constantly watching the tach.Totally the best thing you can do for a Gen 3 Versys!
I don't know if you know it or not but the Dobeck can also adjust the overlap of low, mid and top if you know what you are doing. All I know is that it screams from the default overlap positions and pulls hard without any hesitation and I didn't have to adjust overlap at all, just fattened up the mid from 3 to 4. With a flash you are just plain stuck with what you got so you will have to like it. Also when I go to Colorado I can lean the fuel settings, you can't.
 

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I can respond about leaning the fuel at altitude.
First, you do not need to be in closed loop. As the fueling is selected, it originates in either the IAP (intake air pressure) mapping or the TPS (throttle position sensor) mapping. It's is then trimmed by inputs from the differential of the intake air pressure and the atmospheric air pressure sensor. intake air temp and coolant temp sensors also play a role at this point. so if you go up in altitude, the differential of pressures is already considered and applied. If the ECU didn't have a method to compensate, fueling would be all over the place as the vehicle is ridden at different altitudes.
Additionally, Since these inline fuel controllers go in between the ecu and injectors, they can only rectify the injector pulse, but they don't know which map it's originating from. I have no experience with the Dobeck unit, but power commanders are impossible to map at low throttle settings because they are working on correcting the TPS responses, and that's why folks complain about flat spots and hesitations in low throttle settings.
Also, Fuel mappers are limited to that... mapping fuel. There are other controls that impact how the engine runs and responds. Timing is a big one. It can be changed with ecu flashing, and not with a piggyback unit. Likewise for secondary throttle mapping changes. My flash has a full complete rebuild of all these maps and they aren't even similar to stock. That's why the throttle pickup from closed is as smooth as it is. Good secondary mapping coupled with fuel cut delete, which is another thing piggybacks can't do. They also can't shut off the 02 sensors or pair valves / CEL lights, change the rev limiter, etc.
Finally - fuel economy. With flashing, you can target individual cells all across the map, from idle to redline. When building a flash, I not only use a dyno, but also I ride and datalog extensively. the bike is hooked up with a wideband 02 sensor, and it's recording the relative afr's for each cell. because of this, I can change afr's depending on the use. light throttle is leaner than full throttle. I generally DO NOT autotune. In this manner, excellent fuel economy can be maintained. Piggypack units, at least the pc's, can be autotuned, but you need to know what you're doing, and it's more of a "batch" change than a cell specific adjustment. If you're just adding 8% fuel all over the place, well, you're not going to get the best fuel economy. Booster plugs are really bad for this, but if it's all you've experienced you think it's the best.
Technology has marched on, and the booster plug and piggyback fuel controllers that are "tricking" the ECU data have fallen by the wayside as ECU access has improved. Now we can go to the source of the data, and change it accordingly. We can't get stuck in a time warp. What was good a few years ago has been passed by with this new access. If you want to be good at tuning, you have to keep up. it's not easy, and I for one am constantly learning.
I hope this helps.
Steve
 

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Technology has marched on, and the booster plug and piggyback fuel controllers that are "tricking" the ECU data have fallen by the wayside as ECU access has improved. Now we can go to the source of the data, and change it accordingly. We can't get stuck in a time warp. What was good a few years ago has been passed by with this new access. If you want to be good at tuning, you have to keep up. it's not easy, and I for one am constantly learning.
I hope this helps.
Steve
exactly.... which leads me to a question, my dad used to own a Kawasaki shop in the 60’s and 70’s...I was his mechanic in my teens and could tune a mean 2 stroke carb. I just purchased a 2011 versys and hear about these tunes, and your tuning.... how much of a difference does it make over stock, for power and mileage, and how much does it cost?
 

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Unfortunately, the ECU flash is only available for Gen 3 650's, 2015-2020. Hopefully, someone will pitch in on tuning your 2011 "manually". It's on the forum but kinda hard to find with the new "improved" :mad: website.
 

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I can respond about leaning the fuel at altitude.
First, you do not need to be in closed loop. As the fueling is selected, it originates in either the IAP (intake air pressure) mapping or the TPS (throttle position sensor) mapping. It's is then trimmed by inputs from the differential of the intake air pressure and the atmospheric air pressure sensor. intake air temp and coolant temp sensors also play a role at this point
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Steve
I actually understood that, at least conceptually. Thanks for the explanation! For this old guy who grew up fiddling with carburetors and hand adjusting distributor timing, the newfangled technology is sometimes frustrating when it comes between the driver and the machine.

I wish I could find someone with your skills who works on Subarus.
 

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I actually understood that, at least conceptually. Thanks for the explanation! For this old guy who grew up fiddling with carburetors and hand adjusting distributor timing, the newfangled technology is sometimes frustrating when it comes between the driver and the machine.

I wish I could find someone with your skills who works on Subarus.
actually, if you could imagine tuning as you know how, but with the ability to make finite adjustments with a key stroke, you'ld really embrace tuning efi vs carburetion.
 

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For this old guy who grew up fiddling with carburetors and hand adjusting distributor timing, the newfangled technology is sometimes frustrating when it comes between the driver and the machine.
I was in Mexico for a few years in the early 90s. You bring a car into the country and it runs badly, the gas, elevation and humidity type adjustments. The mechanics there could work wonders just tuning by ear. No real manuals around it seemed. I dont miss carburators and distributor timing in the least but having those basic adjustments at your disposal in a pinch is a valuable tool. Its kind of a classic analogue to digital conversion, like old antenna analogue radio station signals to digital transmission now. No doubt the modern ECU controlled system is better, my 649 cc still runs great after 70,000 with just the basic maintenance. But if I had engine trouble in the middle of nowhere without internet... soon our phones will be able to be our robot mechanics!
 
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