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Discussion Starter #1
Hit a big water filled pothole yesterday and blew out the seal on the right fork. I have the book & have read that, I read posts about oil & shim changes etc, but didn't see specifics about Gen III. I'm not going to fool with the shim pack right now unless someone has something that is an obvious need to do. and unless I hear otherwise about oil weight and level in Gen 3 forks (Rt side)) I'll go with 10wt at 43mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
leaks.... it squirts every time the forks move. did 400 miles like that and every place I stop it drools. the right rotor and pads are soaked. I have new seals on the way. the plan is to change the one (rt side) and press on
 

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I would replace the oil in both legs.
its pretty important that they both be the same
+1, unless you're stuck somewhere and just need to get back on the road to home.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
soooooo..... 10 wt at 43mm? has anyone that has actually changed their fork oil got a comment? thanks.
 

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Beezerboy - the seals on my '15 V650 started leaking after D2D '16 on the ride home. Kawi replaced 'em under warranty (I put a set of "FORKSKINS" on to protect the new seals), and I put Walmart ATF in (which is what I've run in ALL THREE of my Vs).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks Eddie... ys, blew mine out 2 miles from the border on Top of the World (thought I saw you there... I don't camp at the GoldRush anymore). I've been using ATF for 10 wt fork oil forever & that was what I had planned for this one. some of my other bikes with Ricor valves want 5 wt. I mix my own from ATF & Marvel. I did some flow tests & a 50/50 mix is Belray 5 for viscosity (which I've heard is closer to 7). I was also curious about what oil level people are using in Gen 3 forks... stock setting? it makes a big difference in some bikes.
 

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soooooo..... 10 wt at 43mm? has anyone that has actually changed their fork oil got a comment? thanks.
Recently did this. Yes, 10W, actually the viscosity at 40C is the important number but 10W will get you very close to that. Do replace both fork seals and dust covers.

You WILL need
1) a fork seal driver or make a tool to do this
2) a fork spring holder or make one out of a plate of steel. I posted the design for one on here.
3) a vise plus vise protectors so as not to leave any tool marks on the forks
4) a rear and front pit stand that lifts by the triple tree
5) way to measure and get fork oil level precisely set like a syringe obtained from a pharmacy


Be sure to watch a few HOW TO videos on YouTube first. Found these very helpful. In short it is not hard and will only take an evening but you need certain specialty tools or more likely need to make them. For instance you cannot remove the end cap without a spring holder. I made one for about a dollar out of a sheet of plate steel. You will also need fork seal drivers to not damage the new fork seals installing them.

I took my bike to a DIY motorcycle shop that had all the specialty tools other than the spring holder.

If your fork seal blew it is likely they did not get the air gap at the top of the fork correct during the last fork oil change. It is very important to get this correct as it is your bump stop.

You can safely substitute Amsoil Red Signature Series synthetic transmission fluid for the Showa SS8 fork oil which is OEM in the Versys as it has the same viscosity at 40C (36.8cST/@40C) however transmission fluid viscosity varies widely by type and brand so I would not use just any transmission fluid in place of 10W fork oil. As a safe bet use 10W fork oil unless you have the full specs and can look up the viscosity. A change in viscosity means a change in damping which can make things either harsh or under damped.

https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks man. I have the real tools from other bikes, with the possible exception of "fork spring holder"... not sure what that is. I have a 33mm nut to fab the rod guide tool, just need to path to the MIG. I also have the Kawi factory shop manual. waiting on seals
 

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......I have the real tools from other bikes, with the possible exception of "fork spring holder"... not sure what that is. I have a 33mm nut to fab the rod guide tool, just need to path to the MIG. I also have the Kawi factory shop manual. waiting on seals
Fork spring tool thread



You will need a second set of hands to pull down on spring to wedge this in. After it is in you will be able to access the nut you need to take the forks apart. The only dimension that needs to be close is the slot size which is 1 cm. It's a lot more obtainable than the ~$200 Kawasaki spring specialty tool listed in the manual. I drilled a 1cm hole then used a band saw and grinder.

Don't forget to loosen, but not remove the fork caps, before removing them form the triple tree.

Sorry about the metric dimensions. 2.56 cm = 1 inch if you want to convert.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
25.4? ha ha. tnx, I have a mill, that should make a nice one

edit... just went through the factory manual again... do not see where/how this thing is used
 

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I changed fork oil on the right (dampening) leg a while back.

Went with Maxima 10wt fork oil at stock height. Dampening is perfect for my 190 pound riding weight. Spring pre-load (left leg) is right in the middle at 10 turns out for proper sag at my weight.

Previous owned had it serviced with ATF. I first serviced it with 20wt but the ride was too firm. Dropped to 10wt and am very satisfied now.
 

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thanks Eddie... ys, blew mine out 2 miles from the border on Top of the World (thought I saw you there... I don't camp at the GoldRush anymore). I've been using ATF for 10 wt fork oil forever & that was what I had planned for this one. some of my other bikes with Ricor valves want 5 wt. I mix my own from ATF & Marvel. I did some flow tests & a 50/50 mix is Belray 5 for viscosity (which I've heard is closer to 7). I was also curious about what oil level people are using in Gen 3 forks... stock setting? it makes a big difference in some bikes.
I used the figures in the SHOP MANUAL, RT fork fully compressed 43mm from the top; LT fork fully compressed 63mm from the top.

...just went through the factory manual again... do not see where/how this thing is used
I believe THAT diagram is to hold the springs in the forks on the Gen 1 and 2 Vs - I had made similar ones for BOTH of my Gen 1s.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
tnx Eddie... confirms my suspicions
 

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For my 2015 650LT gen III I've developed a leak on the left fork seal.
I've slowed the leak considerably by removing gunk with the film trick which really works but there's still some weeping.

I haven't see anyone mention use of the rod guide socket (beezerboy mentions above).

I've got fork seal drivers but the rod guide tool / socket fab is beyond my capability.

Is this tool required for seal and fluid replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if I remember right, yes, you need the tool on the left leg to get it apart & back together. don't need it on the right side. all the rest is done with common tools. and no, do not need the other spring tool on the Gen III

there is a post somewhere about the tool... 33mm lug-nut. I bought one at a trailer supply store. welded it to one end of a piece of steel tube, and a spare socket with 1/2 inch drive on the other end. don't remember the torque off hand but 60-65 foot pounds maybe. you gotta have the tool to do that. maybe take it to the dealer, but I would be more inclined to suggest that you buy or scrounge the parts, cut/grind the fit, and then take it to a welder. then you will have the tool
 

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Thanks Beezer -
I did finally find the other thread that has the tool fab - that's very nice work.

I appreciate the response. As I continue commuting, I'm evaluating the left fork leak, it's either stopped or weeping ever so slightly.
Hoping it's just some residual oil around the dust cover but it might be wishful thinking.
At least it's not dripping.
If it still weeps after a few days I may do what I've never done - drop the fork off and have the dealer do it - the local shop has a good rep. I'll need a dry fork leg to get thru annual state inspection.
If I can make it thru the season I'll get the tool fab'ed and change the seals this off-season.
 
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