Kawasaki Versys Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Welcome from Canada
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Best to go to Technical Discussion / How To Posts/ All Models there are 10 threads under Stator
Unlike what you are asking, a common issue with the V Strom is magnet/rotor failure--the Versys has a less sophisticated regulator compared to Suzuki and is largely part of stator failure. Your 2011 could be wound the old way-around 2011 to 2012 the vendors supplying to Kawasaki upgraded the winding and method of connection, then later upgraded the insulation used to prevent magnet wire movement, and the higher magnet wire temperature insulation now Class H. Versys 007 was class F
Anyone reading this and notice class H is 180'C well here is a note in the link below



 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
I need to ask, did you check this at the stator plug-disconnected from the regulator / Harness or did you check this at the regulator?

If you can post a picture of your meter up close, --easy -you can copy the image and paste in the post, --
I suspect 2 things, you blew your fuse in the meter-or you have the probes in the wrong socket.
I have never seen a stator fail completely that didn't put out at least 15 volts AC on one phase.
The next thing is to drain the oil and pull the stator cover. Or you could lean the bike to the right or some other means.

What dddd said basically covers the rest.

One other thing I would suspect those reading using AC Volts may be induced--either a broken lead or a blown fuse, since you are doing 3 phase readings, it is not likely that you had 3 bad connections. One thing, most meters fuse protect the ohms / volts setting, switch to ohms and short / zero your leads, meter should display 00.00 ohms, if selecting ohms -turning on and both the on state and shorted leads produce the same meter display= fuse blown

Your headlight relay - you are correct on stator failure = no headlight----FYI a fully charged battery and a key on will give 3 out of 5 tries a headlight on, leaving a battery tender on while trying this is permissible.
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Thanks to all
@onewizard I will provide all you ask, ASAP.
I perform the measurement at the stator plug-disconnected from the regulator.
My meter switch automatically from DC to AC according to input, a doubt is coming: could be a voltage frequency different from 50Hz leading to an erroneous AC reading?
I will also check meter manual.
Yes this is high frequency, around 100 to 120 HZ. Many auto ranging meters can be range selected. Do you have a model and name of meter ?
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
The meter is this one


and it should be able to read DC volts in 40Hz-1KHz range. So it should be good enough. I will repeat measurement in the next weekend selecting the DC range manually and taking some pictures.

Ciao
Gen
Possibly try it on your house power to verify AC volts is working. It has an excellent rating, category IV ( 4) at 600 Volts
AC volts--There is a range switch-in the picture the screen shows AUTO -pushing the range switch should change to a fixed setting or manual setting, like; 000 00.0 or 0.00

Reality is, it isn't charging, out of 100 stator failures, 1 had a bad regulator--Out of charging system problems 1 was the connector with one pin melted, -it wasn't caught soon enough= burnt stator. 1 or 2 have had a corroded connector at the regulator= burnt stator.

The problem with 1PH - single phase we are using 1/3 of the copper but have 100% of the magnetic field=Burnt stator
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Some updated from weekend test. First of all I try AC reading on home power and it works fine:230V both when meter is used in automatic mode and when used in manual setting the range to xxx.yy Volt.
Then I read the stator at its plug disconnected from regulator obtaining the following reading (let's say A, B, C the three wires) at 1000 and 2000 RPM respectively:
  1. AB: 2.36,2.70Volt
  2. BC: 2.36,2.70Volt
  3. CA: 4.25,4.40Volt
I discover that meter doesn't work in auto for these measurements, so I set it in AC with range xx.yy
Then for AB only a performed several measurement at 1000,2000,3000 and 4000 RPM for which I toke some picts:
@1000rpm
View attachment 184533
@2000rpm
View attachment 184534
@3000rpm
View attachment 184535
@4000rpm
View attachment 184536

Then detail to show where I take the measurement:
View attachment 184537

Can I state that problem is stator? And exclude a rotor failure?
Thanks to all helping,
Gennaro
Yes , thanks for posting, FYI those pictures will help others. Also you now know auto won't work at low voltage. A couple things, your reading show two readings left of decimal . & two to the right of decimal. This is what is called a 3.5 digit meter. The setting you have is the most accurate you will get. You need a new stator . As to the rotor, don't use any force or hit it, take photos. Taking the stator cover off, have a couple thin pieces of wood, like popsicle sticks. Until you get the cover moving, the magnetic force is pulling it in, also it must be removed with equal force on both sides, as there are dowel pins. If caution is used, no gasket is needed. Oil should be drained , but some have just caught the oil below- your call.
Thanks for posting. Expect to see a completely chard stator, that or some burnt connections .Please post photos when apart. Both sides of stator.
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Today I removed the stator cover, which confirm stator is fried

View attachment 184832

Now I should find a new one in the jungle of the online store!

A couple of questions for when I will set up the cover:
1) the gasket seems to be ok do you suggest to take a new one? In the case I can use the old one it should be cleaned?
2) is it recommend to use any sealant between the gasket and the cover, or in the rubber junction?
View attachment 184833

A picture showing rotor and gasket condition
View attachment 184835

Thanks to everyone help in this thread

Gennaro
Many have just reinstalled the cover, in the area of the rubber, I recall reading in the manual to use a sealant, sparingly.
Could you take a close up of the other side of the stator. I have seen identical failures like this, it is at the 3 phase connection and 1 phase shorted between the output and the nearest pole. Also get a photo showing the back side of the stator, my guess is all the cross connections are on the side- 18 of them


FYI I assisted with @Smiley and we never ever replaced the gasket, 3 times apart.
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Sure. Despite the damage, it is a good news as I can try to replace it by myself. Different it should have been in case of rotor fault, where I think more skills are required. I'll keep you updated, and thank again for your accurate explanation.
Be very careful replacing the stator, many are what is called Y connected with only 63% of OEM copper. The only after market supplier I know of is Electrosport , and that is the only one I would buy from. HOWEVER, if you had a series regulator, any stator would work. The challenge is that 95% of series regulators on ebay are fake ones. Waiting for a report back from a member who is experimenting with what could be a legitimate series regulator.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fasteddiecopeman

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
The regulator is mounted ahead of the swing arm - you.mentioned a 2011. The failure is a common one, right at the connection.
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
You may need to wait a month. A possible new version of the 4012941 Polaris - I took a chance and bought a Polaris regulator for my 2015 from a Polaris dealer- no idea if it was a series or shunt regulator. I spent $115 and it turns out to be a heavy duty version of the 4012941 SH775BA. But rated at 50 amp #4016868 - the problem is there are no paint markings, so plenty of fraudulent regulators on ebay. Buying used is a option - but very risky. Which is why I have a test for checking if it is a fake series regulator. The problem is , if it is fake, you already paid shipping and are out the $$$$
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
Rather than edit, the 4016868 is physically larger and much more difficult to mount, plus the cooling fins are 90' to the OEM , which compounds the mounting difficulty. Having said that one member succeeded in mounting on a 09 I think. I will look that up and ask him how things are going.
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,275 Posts
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top