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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi to everybody, my Name is Gennaro and write from Italy.
I recenti face a problem on battery recharge on my versys 650 2011. I checked stator resistance and they seems to be good (around 0.3 ohm for each pair), while current is 0 volt. Is it the rotor in fault? Did you experienced the same failure? Is it possible to change this piece with poor mechanics skills? Thanks in advance for all information on get to arrive to this conclusion (rotor in fault)
 

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WELCOME aboard!

"onewizard" will probably answer your question. GOOD LUCK.
 

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Welcome from Canada
 

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Best to go to Technical Discussion / How To Posts/ All Models there are 10 threads under Stator
Unlike what you are asking, a common issue with the V Strom is magnet/rotor failure--the Versys has a less sophisticated regulator compared to Suzuki and is largely part of stator failure. Your 2011 could be wound the old way-around 2011 to 2012 the vendors supplying to Kawasaki upgraded the winding and method of connection, then later upgraded the insulation used to prevent magnet wire movement, and the higher magnet wire temperature insulation now Class H. Versys 007 was class F
Anyone reading this and notice class H is 180'C well here is a note in the link below



 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your fast reply.
I already read your post specifying the steps to test stator failure. My reading was 0 V ad idle, 0.3 V at 4000 RPM. I will repeat this test again following your suggestion, but for sure the reading will be around 0 for each phase.
If I we'll understand what you wrote, in my model could be more likely a problem in the rotor as it is a different class respect to newer version?
 

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To spare the wiz from some typing, I must say a few things.

I don't have the impression that you are measuring correctly. You mention volts when talking about current...
Don't expect any current (amps) while the stator is disconnected for voltage measurement!
Don't try to measure amps straight through your amps meter it will just burn its internal fuse and indicate 0 amps.

The volts from each stator phases are alternating (AC voltage, no DC). You should see between 24 and 28 AC volts at 2000 rpms. That is the test recommended in those threads.

Once reconnected to the regulator, above 2000 rpms, its DC output (simply measurable at the battery) should be around 14.3 - 14.5 DC volts
(and very small traces of AC volts, like 0.1 or less, from the imperfection of the regulator).

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To spare the wiz from some typing, I must say a few things.

I don't have the impression that you are measuring correctly. You mention volts when talking about current...
Don't expect any current (amps) while the stator is disconnected for voltage measurement!
Don't try to measure amps straight through your amps meter it will just burn its internal fuse and indicate 0 amps.

The volts from each stator phases are alternating (AC voltage, no DC). You should see between 24 and 28 AC volts at 2000 rpms. That is the test recommended in those threads.

Once reconnected to the regulator, above 2000 rpms, its DC output (simply measurable at the battery) should be around 14.3 - 14.5 DC volts
(and very small traces of AC volts, like 0.1 or less, from the imperfection of the regulator).

Hope this helps.
You are right, I wrote current due to my bad English, but I meant volt. Apart that I measured Volt AC just after stator, while the reading of DC output is just the battery level. I doesn't notice any increase with the engine on.
My first suspect comes from the headlight that non come on when engine starts then I performed all test following onewizars trips
 

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I need to ask, did you check this at the stator plug-disconnected from the regulator / Harness or did you check this at the regulator?

If you can post a picture of your meter up close, --easy -you can copy the image and paste in the post, --
I suspect 2 things, you blew your fuse in the meter-or you have the probes in the wrong socket.
I have never seen a stator fail completely that didn't put out at least 15 volts AC on one phase.
The next thing is to drain the oil and pull the stator cover. Or you could lean the bike to the right or some other means.

What dddd said basically covers the rest.

One other thing I would suspect those reading using AC Volts may be induced--either a broken lead or a blown fuse, since you are doing 3 phase readings, it is not likely that you had 3 bad connections. One thing, most meters fuse protect the ohms / volts setting, switch to ohms and short / zero your leads, meter should display 00.00 ohms, if selecting ohms -turning on and both the on state and shorted leads produce the same meter display= fuse blown

Your headlight relay - you are correct on stator failure = no headlight----FYI a fully charged battery and a key on will give 3 out of 5 tries a headlight on, leaving a battery tender on while trying this is permissible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all
@onewizard I will provide all you ask, ASAP.
I perform the measurement at the stator plug-disconnected from the regulator.
My meter switch automatically from DC to AC according to input, a doubt is coming: could be a voltage frequency different from 50Hz leading to an erroneous AC reading?
I will also check meter manual.
 

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Thanks to all
@onewizard I will provide all you ask, ASAP.
I perform the measurement at the stator plug-disconnected from the regulator.
My meter switch automatically from DC to AC according to input, a doubt is coming: could be a voltage frequency different from 50Hz leading to an erroneous AC reading?
I will also check meter manual.
Yes this is high frequency, around 100 to 120 HZ. Many auto ranging meters can be range selected. Do you have a model and name of meter ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The meter is this one


and it should be able to read DC volts in 40Hz-1KHz range. So it should be good enough. I will repeat measurement in the next weekend selecting the DC range manually and taking some pictures.

Ciao
Gen
 

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The meter is this one


and it should be able to read DC volts in 40Hz-1KHz range. So it should be good enough. I will repeat measurement in the next weekend selecting the DC range manually and taking some pictures.

Ciao
Gen
Possibly try it on your house power to verify AC volts is working. It has an excellent rating, category IV ( 4) at 600 Volts
AC volts--There is a range switch-in the picture the screen shows AUTO -pushing the range switch should change to a fixed setting or manual setting, like; 000 00.0 or 0.00

Reality is, it isn't charging, out of 100 stator failures, 1 had a bad regulator--Out of charging system problems 1 was the connector with one pin melted, -it wasn't caught soon enough= burnt stator. 1 or 2 have had a corroded connector at the regulator= burnt stator.

The problem with 1PH - single phase we are using 1/3 of the copper but have 100% of the magnetic field=Burnt stator
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Some updated from weekend test. First of all I try AC reading on home power and it works fine:230V both when meter is used in automatic mode and when used in manual setting the range to xxx.yy Volt.
Then I read the stator at its plug disconnected from regulator obtaining the following reading (let's say A, B, C the three wires) at 1000 and 2000 RPM respectively:
  1. AB: 2.36,2.70Volt
  2. BC: 2.36,2.70Volt
  3. CA: 4.25,4.40Volt
I discover that meter doesn't work in auto for these measurements, so I set it in AC with range xx.yy
Then for AB only a performed several measurement at 1000,2000,3000 and 4000 RPM for which I toke some picts:
@1000rpm
Automotive tire Communication Device Gauge Measuring instrument Font

@2000rpm
Plant Automotive tire Gadget Motor vehicle Measuring instrument

@3000rpm
Plant Motor vehicle Automotive tire Measuring instrument Tool

@4000rpm
Motor vehicle Light Automotive tire Gadget Measuring instrument


Then detail to show where I take the measurement:
Tire Bicycle tire Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber


Can I state that problem is stator? And exclude a rotor failure?
Thanks to all helping,
Gennaro
 

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Some updated from weekend test. First of all I try AC reading on home power and it works fine:230V both when meter is used in automatic mode and when used in manual setting the range to xxx.yy Volt.
Then I read the stator at its plug disconnected from regulator obtaining the following reading (let's say A, B, C the three wires) at 1000 and 2000 RPM respectively:
  1. AB: 2.36,2.70Volt
  2. BC: 2.36,2.70Volt
  3. CA: 4.25,4.40Volt
I discover that meter doesn't work in auto for these measurements, so I set it in AC with range xx.yy
Then for AB only a performed several measurement at 1000,2000,3000 and 4000 RPM for which I toke some picts:
@1000rpm
View attachment 184533
@2000rpm
View attachment 184534
@3000rpm
View attachment 184535
@4000rpm
View attachment 184536

Then detail to show where I take the measurement:
View attachment 184537

Can I state that problem is stator? And exclude a rotor failure?
Thanks to all helping,
Gennaro
Yes , thanks for posting, FYI those pictures will help others. Also you now know auto won't work at low voltage. A couple things, your reading show two readings left of decimal . & two to the right of decimal. This is what is called a 3.5 digit meter. The setting you have is the most accurate you will get. You need a new stator . As to the rotor, don't use any force or hit it, take photos. Taking the stator cover off, have a couple thin pieces of wood, like popsicle sticks. Until you get the cover moving, the magnetic force is pulling it in, also it must be removed with equal force on both sides, as there are dowel pins. If caution is used, no gasket is needed. Oil should be drained , but some have just caught the oil below- your call.
Thanks for posting. Expect to see a completely chard stator, that or some burnt connections .Please post photos when apart. Both sides of stator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sure. Despite the damage, it is a good news as I can try to replace it by myself. Different it should have been in case of rotor fault, where I think more skills are required. I'll keep you updated, and thank again for your accurate explanation.
 
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