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It's that time...

Any recommendations on the type of oil (and weight) that should be used? It's still being broken in...

What torque should be used on the filter and plug when finishing up?

Any special tools?

Any tips?

Thanks in advance!
 

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lost,

this is what the some experts say about oil changes during break-in

Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run!!

Change Your Oil Right Away!!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing!! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...

Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal???

This is a good question...
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL!!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
Viewer Questions:

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles??

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do??

A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in??

A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact!! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits???

A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head!!

A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them!!

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

I would add use a strong magnet and move it around toward the drain hole to capture any loose particles.




 

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I did my first change at 300. Figured I'd split the difference.
I went with Yamalube 10/40 (nothing special, just what they had).
I changed again at 1100.

I was told by multiple people to NOT use synthetic before 5000 miles.
I cannot explain the physics, just relaying what assumed reasonably competent people told me.

At 5000 miles I'll switch to AMSOIL Synthetic 10/40. It's expensive but my Zook loves it.
I'll see if the Vs agrees.
 

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The filter is a PITA to get off the first time. Be easy. I used a pair of filter pliers, worked good, but might be worth the proper filter socket. I think they are available at auto parts stores cheap.

As for torguing the drain plug..... Hmm, I torque most drive train bolts, but I use the by hand guessing method for drain plugs. I've stripped these before and it's no fun.
It's a plug, not a hardened bolt holding moving parts together.
 

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I agree with Waxrash, the 'new' washer that goes back in is a compression washer that will flatten out and seal the marriage of the bolt hole and bolt. So after you tighten it with your fingers put the socket on and only give it a half turn. You should feel the washer getting squeezed.

BTW, the oil drain plug is probably on the top of the list of bolts that are stripped while tightening.

Have a nice day! :D
 

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As for torguing the drain plug..... Hmm, I torque most drive train bolts, but I use the by hand guessing method for drain plugs. I've stripped these before and it's no fun.
It's a plug, not a hardened bolt holding moving parts together.
The engine oil drain bolt itself is very strong. It's the threads in the aluminum oil pan that are easier to strip. Recommended torque is 22 ft-lb...
As long as it's JASO MA (Japanese Automotive Standards Organization - Motorcycle high friction applications) labeled 10W40, as specified in owner's manual. I'll switch to Amsoil synthetic at 2500 Kms (1500 miles).
 
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