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The stator definitely tested out as faulty, which would explain the battery charging problem that's continued even with the new battery.

I'm thinking the stator / battery is separate from the radiator fan problem...
 

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The stator definitely tested out as faulty, which would explain the battery charging problem that's continued even with the new battery.

I'm thinking the stator / battery is separate from the radiator fan problem...
We just had a member with a failed stator that blew the headlight bulbs and signal light fuse, took out the ECU. A damaged ECU is rare but it happens, you mention testing the fan relay, how did you did this?
 

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I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.

Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...
 

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I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.

Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...
Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.

Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness , I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on , now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.

The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.

Note
Black with yellow tracer is negative , Blue with white tracer is positive
 

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I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.

Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...
Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.

Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness , I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on , now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.

The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.
Super Awesome Info! Thank you so much @onewizard! I should be able to do these tests. They should be straightforward enough and I should have the tools for the job.The references to the page numbers are helpful too. I'll post back in the next couple of days as I have time to get to it. 👍😊
 
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Replacement parts for the stator and regulator/rectifier came in Thursday, but the bike (aka Dolores) is at my folk's place an hour north. I'll be able to get get those parts replaced next week, get the battery properly charged, and then test the fan. Updates will follow...
 
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Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.

Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness , I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on , now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.

The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.

@onewizard, when testing the fan, with my battery fully charged (>12.0 volts), can I just connect two leads from the battery terminals straight to the fan terminals? When I tried this, the fan did not spin. Either this suggests that this isn't the right way to test the fan, or that my fan is dead.
 

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@onewizard, when testing the fan, with my battery fully charged (>12.0 volts), can I just connect two leads from the battery terminals straight to the fan terminals? When I tried this, the fan did not spin. Either this suggests that this isn't the right way to test the fan, or that my fan is dead.
I edited my post 24, black with yellow is negative, blue with white is positive terminal, simply for rotation purposes, and yes if you connect 12 volts to the fan terminals and nothing happens your fan is done. You can also use a ohm meter , since it is a motor I am guessing at 2 ohms or less what you should measure across the fan terminals, remeber to short out your leads of the meter first and use the lowest ohms scale , shorting out proves the meter will zero and that both leads are good..( should show 0.00 ohms or if a really good meter it may read 0.19 0hms in which case you can use the relative button to zero the meter while leads are shorted, that way the meter reads actual resistance across the leads, this is only found on more expensive meters symbol should say REL )
 

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I edited my post 24, black with yellow is negative, blue with white is positive terminal, simply for rotation purposes, and yes if you connect 12 volts to the fan terminals and nothing happens your fan is done. You can also use a ohm meter , since it is a motor I am guessing at 2 ohms or less what you should measure across the fan terminals, remeber to short out your leads of the meter first and use the lowest ohms scale , shorting out proves the meter will zero and that both leads are good..( should show 0.00 ohms or if a really good meter it may read 0.19 0hms in which case you can use the relative button to zero the meter while leads are shorted, that way the meter reads actual resistance across the leads, this is only found on more expensive meters symbol should say REL )
Thanks @onewizard! I bought a used working fan. It's all working now...

Those fans are crazy expensive new ($450+ USD)! And currently out of stock in the US it seems. Can those fans be rebuilt?
 

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Thanks @onewizard! I bought a used working fan. It's all working now...

Those fans are crazy expensive new ($450+ USD)! And currently out of stock in the US it seems. Can those fans be rebuilt?
It is possible the brushes wore down , not really worth the trouible to take apart .Ninja and I think KLR also work, I bought a used one for $35, it is in a old thread, some have 3 mounting others four, they all work, here is a example; https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-16-KAWASAKI-EX650-NINJA-650-RADIATOR-COOLING-FAN/223476139951?epid=1577023902&hash=item34083747af:g:RpkAAOSwKWJcrAtg
 

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I did a post in the above thread.
Today I got a message from @Mark241 , here it is;

I have been googling around and trying to resolve and overheating issue. Basically a 30 mile ride into London no problem until I came into traffic after which within five minutes it was boiling over with the warning light came on suggesting the fan hadn’t cut in. Since then I have pulled it apart Have two lives at the relay plug the third wire has continuity to the fan and the fourth wire is the Earth from the ECU I believe is the signal wire to bring the fan on. Probe on an artificial Earth and the fan runs. When it overheated the red warning light came on. It’s a 2011 versys 650. Continuity on the Earth from the ECU wiring block through to the relay connector. I’ve basically called to wire connector of the water temp sensor and put a potentiometer across that to replicate the water temperature at which point the warning light comes on. I was expecting the fan to come on because it didn’t seem that was the thought I’d been touching down and that it is going to be the ECU. However also lucky enough to have a 2016 versus everything is good on and when doing the same thing on that the warning light came on on that also but not the fan again either. Ignition on the engine not running. If you see you know is to bring the warning light on and what conditions does it also switch the Earth to the fan coil relay. I Seem to be missing a bit of this puzzle and wondered if you could help ?

Thanks
Mark


I will do my post in this thread.Here is the relay box I have a small version of the fan relay circuit 16-64 in the service manual



Be aware everything needs to be running for the ECU to turn the fan relay on. My first inspection would be taking the connector at the cluster / speedo apart, doing a visual for corrrosion and applying electrical grease. Next follow the testing the temperature sensor. FYI the MK-1 and MK-2 used the cluster for the temperature sensor power. The MK-3 uses a 5VDC for all sensors. This will be very involved. The first thing is to find the purple with blue wire at the relay box , it is either 18 or 19. A quick test would be to extract the purple / blue pin from the socket, then supply negative ground and see if the fan runs with the key on

 

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I am doing this in two parts, here is your message;
I have been googling around and trying to resolve and overheating issue. Basically a 30 mile ride into London no problem until I came into traffic after which within five minutes it was boiling over with the warning light came on suggesting the fan hadn’t cut in. Since then I have pulled it apart Have two lives at the relay plug the third wire has continuity to the fan and the fourth wire is the Earth from the ECU I believe is the signal wire to bring the fan on. Probe on an artificial Earth and the fan runs. When it overheated the red warning light came on. It’s a 2011 versys 650. Continuity on the Earth from the ECU wiring block through to the relay connector. I’ve basically called to wire connector of the water temp sensor and put a potentiometer across that to replicate the water temperature at which point the warning light comes on. I was expecting the fan to come on because it didn’t seem that was the thought I’d been touching down and that it is going to be the ECU. However also lucky enough to have a 2016 versus everything is good on and when doing the same thing on that the warning light came on on that also but not the fan again either. Ignition on the engine not running. If you see you know is to bring the warning light on and what conditions does it also switch the Earth to the fan coil relay. I Seem to be missing a bit of this puzzle and wondered if you could help ?

I made part of your message bold, in my previous post I mentioned removing the pin from the ECU. Before you do that I want you to measure pin 18 and 19 of the relay box with the connector pulled. So according to the drawing 16-62 you should have 3 positive readings at the 4 pin plug and when the ECU calls for the fan to run the purple / blue should be negative ground, best way is measure from battery positive and the purple / blue pin, socket connected, possibly use a straight pin or needle pushed into the wire side of the connector.Take note the coil circuit of the fan relay is powered positive by fuse #7 brown with white tracer also the relay contact is fed from fuse #4 Positive Green

Using the 4pin connector disconected and battery positive, measure from positive to the blue with white tracer, it should give you battery voltage as the fan is connected to ground, this test proves continuity through the fan armature to the fan ground. This same terminal should go positive when the fan relay energizes.


A really quick test would be to ground the purple / blue wire 4 pin socket with the pin extracted, with the key on, the fan should run. I am saying to extract the purple wire( a rally small needle pushed in from the front of the socket while lightly pulling on the wire , or cut and splice later. If in doubt ask .

 
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