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So for quiet sometime i knew I had a fan problem on my Versys 2010 but didn't care much since I rarely needed it. However the time has come to fix so i did some troubleshooting

1)The 15 Ohm fuse underneath the seat is OK
2) The fan removed from the motorbike and powered by another source/battery works OK
3) I used a multimeter to test the cable that gives power to the fan, right next to the left fairing. Initially the voltage was 0v, but as soon as the bike heated up it went straight to 12v...and then back to 0v when it cooled off, which means the ECU properly signals for the fan to turn on


With my limited understanding, everything seems to work OK...so why the fan does not turn on?:|
 

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Mine takes a good while till it turns on. How long are you waiting before you think it should have turned on?
 

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Mine takes a good while till it turns on. How long are you waiting before you think it should have turned on?
I have definitely waited long enough since the red temperature indicator lights up on the instruments panel. The fan used to on properly earlier than that.
 

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fan could have been jamming up on something when installed, and how well was it turning on your bench test?
also did you check the contacts on the fuse and relay?
 

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So for quiet sometime i knew I had a fan problem on my Versys 2010 but didn't care much since I rarely needed it. However the time has come to fix so i did some troubleshooting

1)The 15 Ohm fuse underneath the seat is OK
2) The fan removed from the motorbike and powered by another source/battery works OK
3) I used a multimeter to test the cable that gives power to the fan, right next to the left fairing. Initially the voltage was 0v, but as soon as the bike heated up it went straight to 12v...and then back to 0v when it cooled off, which means the ECU properly signals for the fan to turn on


With my limited understanding, everything seems to work OK...so why the fan does not turn on?:|
When checking, are you using the ground in the harness or the frame ground?

That ground taps off several points including the horn.

You may laugh at this, and it is a PITA , but you can use your horn, one bolt holds it in place, you will need to go from the fan socket and connect some small jumpers from the female fan socket to the horn spade terminals, just keep in mind that when things heat up you may eventually jump. The horn draws almost the same current, you can also do all the testing when the ECU calls for the fan to run. Measure voltage to ground from both positive of horn to frame ground and also from negative of horn to frame ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When checking, are you using the ground in the harness or the frame ground?

That ground taps off several points including the horn.

You may laugh at this, and it is a PITA , but you can use your horn, one bolt holds it in place, you will need to go from the fan socket and connect some small jumpers from the female fan socket to the horn spade terminals, just keep in mind that when things heat up you may eventually jump. The horn draws almost the same current, you can also do all the testing when the ECU calls for the fan to run. Measure voltage to ground from both positive of horn to frame ground and also from negative of horn to frame ground.
Thank you for the suggestion about the horn, will try it today!

I am using a ground in the harness...as in I connect both multimeter "pens" on the socket of the cable that eventually gives power to the fan. No matter how i stick the 2 pens inside its holes, I will get 12v when it heats up and 0v before that. Am I doing something wrong?
 

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Thank you for the suggestion about the horn, will try it today!

I am using a ground in the harness...as in I connect both multimeter "pens" on the socket of the cable that eventually gives power to the fan. No matter how i stick the 2 pens inside its holes, I will get 12v when it heats up and 0v before that. Am I doing something wrong?
dont shove your probes INTO the cable sockets ever!!! you can bend the tabs in them making them not have good contact.
you should go from the back or use a paperclip then wrap it around the probe tip
 

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So for quiet sometime i knew I had a fan problem on my Versys 2010 but didn't care much since I rarely needed it. However the time has come to fix so i did some troubleshooting

1)The 15 Ohm fuse underneath the seat is OK
2) The fan removed from the motorbike and powered by another source/battery works OK
3) I used a multimeter to test the cable that gives power to the fan, right next to the left fairing. Initially the voltage was 0v, but as soon as the bike heated up it went straight to 12v...and then back to 0v when it cooled off, which means the ECU properly signals for the fan to turn on


With my limited understanding, everything seems to work OK...so why the fan does not turn on?:|
Buy a water temp gage: it's THAT important! $60 for a complete kit on Amazon.
 

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The bottom line is if the cooling system is working, without depending on an idiot light (mine has never come on except when I start it up.) If it is overheating, you will know it the FIRST time it does, and that temp will be there until the next time you start it up (over 230F) on the temp gage that reads 24/7 the last high temp.

If it does overheat, KISS, the thermostat is a mechanical piece that can wear out any time over 5 years. Don't forget to change your cooling fluid every year or two.

The LAST place I'd go, unless you have a specific reason, is Japanese electronics. That is good as gold, and a waste of time trouble shooting in most cases. You are more likely to screw something up messing with it than finding something wrong. ymmv.

And this is the correct temp gage and hose size ($51 at time of purchase):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007S1M9NK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
 

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Thank you for the suggestion about the horn, will try it today!

I am using a ground in the harness...as in I connect both multimeter "pens" on the socket of the cable that eventually gives power to the fan. No matter how i stick the 2 pens inside its holes, I will get 12v when it heats up and 0v before that. Am I doing something wrong?
Believe it or not, you just gave me a ton of information, I don't have the drawing in front of me and the dog has been very patient ,waiting 7 hours to go for our 4 km walk.
The testing is correct, the secret is your digital meter. Do as I said, use your horn, have the connections exposed, you can use a extra alligator clip in series so you can break the connection without going to the socket or the horn. When hot and no HONK, please check hot to ground and ground to battery ground, I am guessing a bad fuse for the fan, but will await your results.

FYI the horn is a load, that is it draws amps to power, your meter is in micro amps, a bad relay or bad fuse will show all OK, put a load on and no power then ****WTF ??????? Been there done it, very embarrassing for a master electrician charging mega bucks who can't find the problem, being it is a fuse or breaker, many***:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Believe it or not, you just gave me a ton of information, I don't have the drawing in front of me and the dog has been very patient ,waiting 7 hours to go for our 4 km walk.
The testing is correct, the secret is your digital meter. Do as I said, use your horn, have the connections exposed, you can use a extra alligator clip in series so you can break the connection without going to the socket or the horn. When hot and no HONK, please check hot to ground and ground to battery ground, I am guessing a bad fuse for the fan, but will await your results.

FYI the horn is a load, that is it draws amps to power, your meter is in micro amps, a bad relay or bad fuse will show all OK, put a load on and no power then ****WTF ??????? Been there done it, very embarrassing for a master electrician charging mega bucks who can't find the problem, being it is a fuse or breaker, many***:rolleyes:

Unfortunately for me I did hear a honk, it wasn't as loud and long as usually but it was still pretty significant (used the polymeter's own cables to transmit the power to the horn). Then i tried some spare 35watt 12v lamp I had...it light on too:X

1) is there a chance that the fan needs more Ambers than the light/horn?
2) Is there any other possible scenario? I am of thinking of re-removing the fan and retesting it on the bench since I can't think of anything else...

To rest posters: The temp gauge works properly, if it did not then power would not go to the fan socket just as bike overheats and not before that. The fact that the warning light comes on when the bike gets hot is more proof to that.
 

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Unfortunately for me I did hear a honk, it wasn't as loud and long as usually but it was still pretty significant (used the polymeter's own cables to transmit the power to the horn). Then i tried some spare 35watt 12v lamp I had...it light on too:X

1) is there a chance that the fan needs more Ambers than the light/horn?
2) Is there any other possible scenario? I am of thinking of re-removing the fan and retesting it on the bench since I can't think of anything else...

To rest posters: The temp gauge works properly, if it did not then power would not go to the fan socket just as bike overheats and not before that. The fact that the warning light comes on when the bike gets hot is more proof to that.
Ok , sorry about the horn, I know it draws around 3.5 amp, should have asked for a video----OK I need to have some fun here too:grin2:--so I am not sorry***
OK I feel better, so use the 35 watt bulb, this time measure the volts DC when the bulb is on.
If it is around 12.3 to 12.9 VDC, then we need to test the fan.
One thing I am fairly sure of, is the ECU and fuse / relay for the fan are functioning normally if you get the 12.3 to 12.9 or better.


Couple things, one is to use your 35 watt bulb, connect it in series with your fan, use a separate DC power source , the 3 amp will not barely be enough to move the fan, I want you to restrict how fast it turns, this is to look for dead spots. Also do a visual on the spade male and female connectors, it is possible to have spread the female spade to the point that it doesn't connect, remember the socket holds everything rigid. Your bulb will be visual indication , it should be at full brilliance turning the fan blades or at full stop .

Last, try moving the wire and look for damage to the wire, could have broken strands, do this also while powered up.

The 35 watt bulb should rotate the fan.
:goodluck:.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again for the suggestions.

Turns out the problem was stuck fan brushes (the black things made of coal inside the fan mechanism). It kind of explains why the fan worked properly when removed from the motorbike...the removal procedure changed the brushes position so power passed through.

Now, while the versys fan is sold as a single unit, my mechanic was able to open it, inspect the insides, apply some lubricant and remove some material from the brushes so they can function properly again.
 

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Thanks again for the suggestions.

Turns out the problem was stuck fan brushes (the black things made of coal inside the fan mechanism). It kind of explains why the fan worked properly when removed from the motorbike...the removal procedure changed the brushes position so power passed through.

Now, while the versys fan is sold as a single unit, my mechanic was able to open it, inspect the insides, apply some lubricant and remove some material from the brushes so they can function properly again.
What is really funny is after I posted, I dug out my ebay fan, hooked it up and ran it. I looked at the back, and thought, hey that looks like the indentations for brushes, naw this is a permanent magnet fan, with inverter----Well just shows you, I ain't perfect.

So to explain for those that want to service their own fan, what to look for and how to;

First many carbon brushes, and I suspect the fan is possibly copper graphite or some other combination, have a tendency to foul up. The first thing is to carefully remove the brushes, usually the high spots ( the part sticking in the brush box), are shinny, lightly sand with 300 or 220 garnet sand paper , just the high spots.

A second problem many people make is, most high current brushes have copper pig tails, the tendency is to twist the copper strands, worst thing you can do, as it shortens the overall length and can be the root cause of binding in the brush box.

A third very common thing on power tools and other universal devices, is to install a set of brushes, one of the set has a plastic round pin similar to a lead pencil, behind it is a spring, this is cast into the brush, when the brush has reached maximum wear, that is the same depth as were this pin is cast. All of a sudden the tool stops. You pull the brushes out and see this sticking out of one brush, similar to wear indicators on disc brakes, except this stops the tool.

Some times there are tiny holes for inserting a pin into the brush box, to allow assembly---basically you do need some knowledge.


Anyway , really nice to posts the results for everyone to learn from.:thanx:
 

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I know this is an old thread, but i'm running into some cooling (or lack there of) problems on my 2011 gen 2. I'm pretty sure my fan isn't working. Today, my temperature indicator light came on while sitting in traffic. It was a chilly, foggy SF morning. I didn't hear the fan running, however I also had ear plugs in and my helmet on, but I'm pretty sure I would have hear it.

The fan is spinning freely. I haven't done all this testing yet. However, I went to start my bike a little while ago to see if I could begin troubleshooting, and the battery was dead. I'm pretty sure I'm still on the original battery from when I purchased the bike new in March 2012. So, yeah, the battery is getting replaced...

I'm wondering, though, would a bad battery result in the radiator fan not turning on?

Regardless, I'll begin by putting the new battery in, starting the bike, letting her run a few minutes and see if the fan comes on before beginning tearing into stuff.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but i'm running into some cooling (or lack there of) problems on my 2011 gen 2. I'm pretty sure my fan isn't working. Today, my temperature indicator light came on while sitting in traffic. It was a chilly, foggy SF morning. I didn't hear the fan running, however I also had ear plugs in and my helmet on, but I'm pretty sure I would have hear it.

The fan is spinning freely. I haven't done all this testing yet. However, I went to start my bike a little while ago to see if I could begin troubleshooting, and the battery was dead. I'm pretty sure I'm still on the original battery from when I purchased the bike new in March 2012. So, yeah, the battery is getting replaced...

I'm wondering, though, would a bad battery result in the radiator fan not turning on?

Regardless, I'll begin by putting the new battery in, starting the bike, letting her run a few minutes and see if the fan comes on before beginning tearing into stuff.
The very first thing I would do, is do my stator test. You should also check your frame ground and engine ground for corrosion, then use dielectric grease. Testing the fan with a good 12 volt source, be aware it draws around 4.81 amp, the exact value is in my thread device load rating https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/105962-stater-output-stator-testing-device-load-ratings-2015-a.html
 

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The very first thing I would do, is do my stator test. You should also check your frame ground and engine ground for corrosion, then use dielectric grease. Testing the fan with a good 12 volt source, be aware it draws around 4.81 amp, the exact value is in my thread device load rating https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/105962-stater-output-stator-testing-device-load-ratings-2015-a.html
Thanks 1W!

I did a few tests today, not sure what to make of them. It seems that the fan relay is working fine, or at least the multi-meter readings were in range (assuming I did the test correctly).

I'll check that thread...it seems like other stuff is popping up too. FI light is on. I need to pull codes...I think she'll be heading in for service...
 
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