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evap can removal for CA models

34K views 34 replies 23 participants last post by  08meanie  
#1 ·
it's pretty straightforward, just involves capping (or not) a nipple in the front of the airbox, and hooking the 2 vent lines coming out the side of the tank (the red dot and blue dot lines) together with a piece of U-shaped tubing, and you're done. the red and blue together allow the tank to vent thru the cap. the other alternative is to connect all 3 lines together and the vents are now hooked up to the overflow. that's the way it's been on my triumph for years and never a prob.
 
#2 ·
Why would you even bother to do this? All the evap system does is store the vapors from the fuel tank, until they can be sucked into the engine, and burned up during startup. It does nothing to restrict performance. Also, the gas cap is sealed and it will not vent through the cap. It is designed to vent through the evap system. It means you won't smell gas fumes in your garage, and the fumes will not end up in the atmosphere. Understand what something does, and understand it is illegal to tamper with it, in fact it is a felony!
 
#4 · (Edited)
Landlord -
No disrespect intended, but the problem with the CA evap canisters is not so much performance, more aesthetics, and no hard data that shows that they do any good. California riders get saddled with this obnoxious, ugly afterthought that gets in the way, and which practically doesn't do a whole helluva lot to keep the emissions clean. The best it does is keep a tiny fraction of gasoline vapors from venting to the outside. It's not like these bikes are losing gallons of gasoline to evaporation anyway -- the tank is still mostly a closed system, otherwise our fuel efficiency would be crap. And this bike, and many others like it, have actually met strict European emissions requirements. If any of the bikes not sold with evap canisters was seriously venting gasoline into the atmosphere, you would have seen many garages that would have blown up by now.

Also, I seriously doubt that it's a felony to tamper with it. I know of exactly zero bikes that get emissions tested in California after they're sold, and all of our licensing and restrictions do very little to keep 49 state bikes out of CA anyway. Ask the guys riding red Versys in CA ...

It wouldn't bother me so much if a) the canister was discreet, unobtrusive, and a normal design element of the bike, and b) if the California Air Resources Board (CARB) flexed its regulatory might toward far worse polluters in our state, including thousands of seriously polluting vehicles that cross at our border with Mexico each and every day. Cars and trucks that not only have completely inadequate emissions controls, some which are blatant smokers, and some that pose a very real and dangerous hazard just being on the road. If you've driven anywhere on the freeways from San Diego to LA, you've seen what I'm talking about.

Instead what we have are manufacturers that have to build a whole different tank and hose routing setup on a motorcycle that represents a tiny portion of the total motoring public, and which realistically can't account for even a remotely significant portion of the air pollution when 95% of the drivers are in cars. These restrictions limit the public's access to motorcycle models that are freely available elsewhere. In California, which must represent a significant portion of the motorcycle buying population of the USA due to our generally mild weather all year throughout the state, we're limited in what models we can buy because bikes that meet all other states and countries' requirements, don't pass the muster with CARB. Which is why it took two years for California to get the Versys.

So if a motorcycle owner wants to remove the evap canister of a motorcycle he/she owns, far be it for me to find fault with that. No worse than straight pipes on Harley's or removing baffles on sport bike pipes, and less annoying to the public at large.
 
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#5 ·
Well said, DarcyM....
and as an addendum, seems like connecting the 2 hoses together should work, and does, but the when the cap is opened, there's a whoosh, so connecting all 3 together seems to be the way to go, academically, of course.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Issues with Leaving the Evap Canister on

4 points:

1. T ing all 3 lines together will work well because the cap does have a vent. Normally that vent is through the charcoal Canister.
2. If you overfill the tank with the Canister installed the manual say that you need to replace the canister because it is ruined!
3. If the canister is ruined/plugged with wet fuel the tank will have venting problems and can stall.
4. When the Bike is dropped fuel will get into the canister and the bike may not run without work or may run poorly until the slow flow or vented air through the canister "dries out" the canister.
 
#7 ·
+1 on darcym's post. When I get a Versys, evap is the first thing I'd do. I already did it to my current ride - took 10 minutes.
 
#9 ·
My plan is to remove the canister but leave the vacuum switch connected. I will bypass the canister hoses which will allow the tank to vent with and without vacuum as intended. I will remount the switch and hoses in an obscure location.

Any comments or suggestions?
 
#13 ·
For all the people that say don't remove it.......If it's such a good thing to have on the bike WHY doesn't every Versys have one? I removed mine pretty early on and never looked back. I never had a smell of gas, and got almost 1/2 gallon MORE fuel capacity!! WIN WIN :)
These are the directions I followed:

Just a quick clarification for those of you with a newer versys with different color coding on the fittings...

On the tank:
Blue is fuel vent/drain. Run a hose down the bike incase anything comes out. It will keep gas away from the bike.

Black/no color is a return- cap this.

Cap the vacuum fitting on the throttle body which had previously run to the canister.

The green hose can either be sealed with a bolt, vacuum fitting and rubber cap, or you can trace it up and cap it at the source. This will require removing the air box, which I'm pretty sure it is connected to.
 

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#18 ·
Sorry not meaning to bash Calif people I love the people and the state itself it's the ridiculous regulations California has that drive me away. I have friends who struggle with their small business (ranchers, mechanics) because of increasing ridiculous rules. So when I find a California tumor on my bike I am compelled to remove it!
 
#21 ·
CA removal

Hey, just giving a shout out to you guys. Thanks for the how-to. Took me about 45 minutes to do the delete plus plug the purge from the airbox and link the throttle bodies together. Cost about $11 for the piping and fittings from the local Advance Auto.
 
#22 ·
And don't forget your bike is now cleaner looking without the tumor and lighter. My canister was pretty heavy when removed.
 
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#23 ·
I agree, I like how clean it looks now and how smooth it is. Now my thoughts turn to those two mounting locations that are on the frame tubes. Do I remove those as well or use them for a small tool kit on my longer rides where I'm on the bike for weeks?
 
#24 ·
I've also thought about if something could be bolted up to those or not. They are pretty tucked up out of the way it seems. So at some point when I have the bike apart for something else I'll probably just grind them off.
 
#25 ·
Hey blokes. I have a 2009 Versys with the evap gubbings removed. It has the 2 lines closest to the seat linked together and a cap on the remaining one. It has developed a slight petrol leak that appears to be from the capped off hole. But it only leaks when she is moving. I'm presuming it only happens because the fuel is under a slight pressure? Would it be best to link all 3 holes together? If so what would I need to do this?

Cheers,
Malkey
 
#33 ·
Better designed engines with fuel injection and the good o'l catalytic converter (exhaust gas re-burner) are the ingredients primarily responsible for cleaner air in smog prone areas in the golden state.

I really don't think the evap canister on a motorcycle has much effect on air quality. Just my 2 cents.

All my bikes that had one I removed, not for aesthetics but for function. I like to top off my tank to get as much range as possible cuz I often ride in remote areas far from petrol stations. We have all seen the warnings "Do not top off." That's because the designers of the system don't want raw liquid fuel to get into the canister. When you top off the tank you run this risk.

So I do like the other 49 states do. Eliminate the canister and run a drain hose to the ground. The following is a picture of my FZ09 right after a top off. I call it my salute to Al Gore.
 

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#34 ·
In the parts diagram for the 2015+ they show both versions. Idk about the earlier generations. Anyhow, there is a little plastic doohickie which should be plumbed into the fuel drain per the non-canister diagrams to drain and vent the system properly. It costs something like $3. Then just cut the rubber hoses you already have to fit the new layout.

The vacuum purge line can be cut off close to the intake and capped off there, or if you're energetic you can remove the fuel tank and cap it off right on the intake, removing the rubber hose entirely.

I presume there is a specific reason they have the little plastic piece on the non-California model instead of just running the drain line down. It is cheap and super easy to convert it properly.

Where the canister was attached could be used for a little hidden storage box.
 
#35 ·
I have an 08 Vulcan mean streak and it looks like some one did the delete but I don’t know re do it after I fixed the bike this is what I have done to it New main wiring harness new injectors new crankshaft position sensor new stater new sensors with the stater not getting spark or fuel but the pump comes on I don’t know what to do
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