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Hi,


One of my Denso 129700-5350 is cracked. Can I replace it with 12700-4580 or they have to be replaced by a set of two?

Since the new one costs 130€ I will go with used one. What resistance should the coil have? If not, what voltage on the end I should have?.
 

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How do I set the camshaft position in that case?
IMG-20210815-174427 this is how I have set the camshaft. On the other side, there are two gears with the mark "-" that I have set straight with the timing head.


If someone I knew called me and said what is in your post--that would literally frighten me--why you posted that 174427 is beyond me--there are steps to be taken, long before the final resting place--there are two threads on valve shim check.

The chain tensioner has gotten out to the middle.
Do you have the service manual--it doesn't sound like it- I understand a language barrier - that chain tensioner once removed needs to be reset-- if you are not following the manual, it is a guaranteed way of destroying your chain and your motor.

Some of the side panels pins are broken. Is there a way to repair them?

Do you have a photo of this? That is scary. I am not asking who or how but, are you talking about the alignment pins? Or are you talking about the plastic--What year is this bike??

If this is an MK-3 and the plastic among other things--we are talking $$$$$$$$$ in possible damage if you don't follow as @invader said above---I know you are asking for help, which is why I added this post--If not for the photos -I would think you a spammer and joking with us, it is hard to believe anyone could get this far without asking on this forum--you have been on for a month!
 

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I think I have been misunderstood. I currently disassembling the motorcycle because I'm doing some general maintenance.

Currently I have changed oil, oil filter, clutch cable, coolant, spark plugs, air filter (all with prescribed torques).I want to check valve clearances. To do that I have unscrewed camshaft cover, unscrewed throttle body because it was in a way and i couldn't take out the cam shaft cover. So I have everything ready, but... There are two inspection caps that I need to undo because first I need to rorate my camshaft, secondly I need to open the small inspection hole to get a view into the markings, to set my 1 cylinder into 1lT So I can actually start measure clearances of the first cylinder and that's where the problem starts. I have problem with loosening that small inspection hole cap. The previous owner seems to have used too much force and I don't want to damage that cap. I bought some circural gaskets that I want to use. I will try to apply the tape on the screw first to avoid any further.

The question still remains. What If I won't be able to unscrew it. How do I manually set the cam shaft in the right safe position.
I have found something in the manual:
And my setting looks the same especially considering that camshaft gears notches are in the line of the camshaft body.
According to manual the good position is when the pushers are directed \ / in such fashion.

About cam chain tensioner. Well I have taken it out in order to check how far it actually had to slide out to compensate the cam chain looseness and it was out in about 50% before I have installed it back I added a new oring, reseted the tensioner, screwed it back into position placed the spring, heard the zip sound, rotated the crankshaft a few times with my wrench.
 

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I always loosen those two "caps" by using a coin (in the jaws of a pair of pliers) as a 'screwdriver'.
 

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Maybe some penetrating oil? Or perhaps a heat gun for a bit of heat on the cap?

Impact driver?

I'd make getting that cap off a priority... but maybe there's a way to see the proper positioning without it.

Change the cracked plug holder. You can leave the one that is good but I'd change them both while I'm in there.

Tensioner: follow the manual.


Finally... good on you for doing your own maintenance:) My first time doing the valve check took much longer than it will next time; I made some rookie mistakes and learned a lot.
 

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I think I have been misunderstood. I currently disassembling the motorcycle because I'm doing some general maintenance.

Currently I have changed oil, oil filter, clutch cable, coolant, spark plugs, air filter (all with prescribed torques).I want to check valve clearances. To do that I have unscrewed camshaft cover, unscrewed throttle body because it was in a way and i couldn't take out the cam shaft cover. So I have everything ready, but... There are two inspection caps that I need to undo because first I need to rorate my camshaft, secondly I need to open the small inspection hole to get a view into the markings, to set my 1 cylinder into 1lT So I can actually start measure clearances of the first cylinder and that's where the problem starts. I have problem with loosening that small inspection hole cap. The previous owner seems to have used too much force and I don't want to damage that cap. I bought some circural gaskets that I want to use. I will try to apply the tape on the screw first to avoid any further.

The question still remains. What If I won't be able to unscrew it. How do I manually set the cam shaft in the right safe position.
I have found something in the manual:
And my setting looks the same especially considering that camshaft gears notches are in the line of the camshaft body.
According to manual the good position is when the pushers are directed \ / in such fashion.

About cam chain tensioner. Well I have taken it out in order to check how far it actually had to slide out to compensate the cam chain looseness and it was out in about 50% before I have installed it back I added a new oring, reseted the tensioner, screwed it back into position placed the spring, heard the zip sound, rotated the crankshaft a few times with my wrench.
First , please look over this thread first, post 3 has the tools required, there is a mistake in the service manual for all years as to cam position--the throttle bodies removal is the way to go--use dielectric grease when installing the stick coils, I explain the how and why in that thread. I have photos showing this, also explain about re-installing the cam chain tensioner.-also you really need a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench, zip ties, take photos and I recommend go no go feeler gauges.

 

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MK 1
Ignition Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 1.1 ∼ 1.5 Ω ( the 2 pins at top )
Secondary Windings: 10.8 ∼ 16.2 kΩ ( pin at top and sparkplug hole )

MK 2 is same

MK 3 is
Stick Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 1.11 ∼ 1.50 Ω
Secondary Windings: 6.4 ∼ 9.6 kΩ
 

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Yes. It looks IDENTICAL to one I have that I bought as a "just-in-case" 'spare'.

(y)(y)

:cool:
 

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I know you have asked this question before. There is no way to know the condition of your cam chain just by looking at the adjuster. The adjuster will take out play in the chain caused by wear of the chain, the chain sprockets (both cams and the crank shaft sprocket), and the rub guides in the engine. Chain wear is measured at a certain length from chain pin to chain pin. My gen 2 manual doesn't give a measurement for this wear. Some of my other motorcycle manuals give me a service limit length.

The best advice I can give you is to remove the cylinder head cover and look at the cam alinement marks. If the chain is excessively worn the alinement marks will not line up with the top edge of the head. One will be a lot lower than the top edge. but that could be caused by the cam timing being off by a gear tooth also. #1 pin below exhaust mark, #32 pin below intake mark.

To replace the chain you need to remove the engine and split the cases to get it off the crank shaft gear.
 

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I know you have asked this question before. There is no way to know the condition of your cam chain just by looking at the adjuster. The adjuster will take out play in the chain caused by wear of the chain, the chain sprockets (both cams and the crank shaft sprocket), and the rub guides in the engine. Chain wear is measured at a certain length from chain pin to chain pin. My gen 2 manual doesn't give a measurement for this wear. Some of my other motorcycle manuals give me a service limit length.

The best advice I can give you is to remove the cylinder head cover and look at the cam alinement marks. If the chain is excessively worn the alinement marks will not line up with the top edge of the head. One will be a lot lower than the top edge. but that could be caused by the cam timing being off by a gear tooth also. #1 pin below exhaust mark, #32 pin below intake mark.

To replace the chain you need to remove the engine and split the cases to get it off the crank shaft gear.
Well, In asked about the loseness of the chain (If the chain needs to be replaced due to being too stretched). The other thing is the state of the chain itself.
 

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What Jeff said. Do you hear chain slap or why are you concerned about chain wear, how many miles on the bike?
 

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...Chain wear is measured at a certain length from chain pin to chain pin. My gen 2 manual doesn't give a measurement for this wear. Some of my other motorcycle manuals give me a service limit length....
My "Gen 3" Service Manual gives the chain wear limit as 12.6 inches over a 20-link length (from 12.5 inches NEW).

I found the explanation that I had read in my Gen 1 Service Manual, which tells to make the measurement on the TOP run of the chain, pin-center-to-pin-center, w/ a weight (10 kg / 22 lbs) hanging from the chain's LOWER run.

20-link length:
Standard 317.8 mm to 318.2 mm (12.5 to 12.53")
Service limit 319 mm (12.6")

HOPE this helps.

:cool:
 

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Did you look at your chain? Do the timing marks on the cams lineup with the top edge of the head? Is the chain rusty? Do you see any stiff or frozen links when you turn the motor to do your valve adjustment? I forgot one of the primary reasons for the cam chain tensioner. It is there so you can put slack in the chain to remove the cams while doing a valve adjustment.

Most wear on a chain will be on the link pins. You can't see it because it is inside the link roller. That is why you will need a total length for a defined number of links. Normally measured as a pin to pin distance. You may have to contact a Kawasaki dealer to find the service limit for your chain.

Here is how to check the drive chain, and is listed in section 2 of the service manual. You would use the cam chain tensioner to put tension on the cam chain instead of the 20 lb. weight.

Drive Chain Wear Inspection
• Remove the chain cover (see Swingarm Removal in the
Suspension chapter).
• Rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain for damaged
rollers, and loose pins and links.
If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain.
Lubricate the drive chain if it appears dry.
• Stretch the chain taut by hanging a 98 N (10 kg, 20 lb)
weight [A] on the chain.
• Measure the length of 20 links on the straight part [C] of
the chain from the pin center of the 1st pin to the pin center
of the 21st pin. Since the chain may wear unevenly, take
measurements at several places.
If any measurements exceed the service limit, replace the
chain. Also, replace the front and rear sprockets when the
drive chain is replaced.
Drive Chain 20-link Length
Standard: 317.5 ∼ 318.2 mm (12.50 ∼ 12.53 in.)
Service Limit: 319 mm (12.6 in.)
 

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Hello,

The last time I have created a post about maintenance. What I have done so far.
Oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs + gaskets, a new clutch cable, used ignition coil for replacement because one was cracked, new camchain head rubber gasket, rear brake pads.

After assembling my motorcycle back I realized that when I go full throttle at 2k+ rpm I hear kinda squeaky/friction sound. I wonder whenever the problem could be with camshaft assembly done by me.

But from the begining. I have disassembled the camshaft head and then:
  • remove camchain tensioner to check how far it has slid.
  • Assemble it back (after resetting it) with a new oring.
  • After that I have rotated the crankshaft a few times and I have set the crankshaft to 1|T.
  • Checked the camshaft, if the camshaft lobes face outward position.
  • Then I checked the clearances at inlet valves. Both inlet allowed 0.15mm gap gauge/feeler gauge, but didn't allow 0.21mm.
  • The same with exhaust clearances. 0.22 slides in, 0.31 didn't.

After that I moved the crankshaft to 2|T position.
  • 1st inlet allowed 0.23mm to slide in, but didn't allow 0.24mm, so that one needed an adjustment. Both 2nd inlet and exhaust were within spec.
  • Due to the fact that one shim was needed to be replaced I zip tied camchain to the camshafts at position 2|T, removed the tensioner and unscrewed camchain bridge. Then I unscrewed both inlet, exhaust camshaft bridges. I have kept in mind to remember about "sleeves/bushings" so that they are in their respective places.
  • At this point I have took out the inlet camshaft a little bit, for the sake od gaining an access to the shim.
  • I went to authorized kawasaki shop to get a new shim which fits the tolerances. The seller didn't have 2.90mm shim that I wanted (previous one was 2.85mm). He had either too thick (2.93/2.94) or too thin. After talk he suggested to leave the shim as it is (2.85mm) because a little too big gap is still better than too small, especially that this gap is going to get smaller throughout the time.

Okay... I started to assemble it back, but a problem appeared.
Inlet bridge did fit, but exhaust didn't want to get into position I didn't want to force it out with a hammer I started to slowly screw the bridge in.
Note: Of course I didn't forget about using a lot of oil/molybdenum mixed with prescribed ratio of 1:10. I talked about the problem with my friend and has a lot more experience than me. He told me that the reason why it doesn't want to set in easily is that lobes are pushing on valves thus the resistance that I feel. He also told me that i need to release that tension, by rotating the cranksnaft into a position which doesn't result in pushing any valves, so I have screwed in the inlet bridge (to avoid any problems while rotating crankshaft and then I have slowly turned crankshaft to the left, but not too much, just for the sake of releasing the tension so I can install bridges back in without forcing it back. I didn't feel any unwanted jump on the chain. After rotating it to the left, there was no resistance due to the positions of camshafts. Then I zip tied the camchain and camshafts again. I have put camshafts in their respective places, inserted bridges back - so far so good. I actually started to screw them in, only to realize that I made another mistske. The problem was that camchain bridge didn't want to fit in, but I quickly realized why, that's because there are those "disks" at the end of the camshafts and they need to fit in the holes @camchain bridge. I unscrewed both in and ex bridges, lifted them to release them and moved the camshaft so that it fitted that camchain bridge holes. Then I have placed everything by hand, lubricated it and I screwed it all in sequence stated by the manual using 12nm torque wrench.
I have instslled back the chain tensioner and I removed zip ties, applied new sparkplug seals, new head seal + silicone seal @ half circles area.

When I screwed in the screws, from time to time I rotated camshafts to check if they are not stuck and they weren't.
After assembling I checked valve clearances again. All were the same and the loose one got even looser by 0.01mm so, 0.24 slides in, 0.25 didn't. Before checking clearances i rotated the crankshaft several times. I felt as if compression was higher than before, more resistance during compression stroke or that might be just my imagination. When I replaced spark plugs we have noticed that the previous ones (Also NGK) were screwed in too lightly so even their crush washers were not even crushed.

After assembling my motorcycle back I have started it, it started immidiately. No issues at all.

So all was perfect until I started to push my motorcycle a little bit (to the 8/9k rpm).

Before I did test drive I have run the motorcycle, warmed it up then cooled it up while replacing rear brake pads.

First thing I noticed is that the fuel pump was kinda loud, but that migh be because of the fact that the tank was still supported by a rubber hammer underneath it.

No oil pressure warning or temp warning while running.

First run video

After warming it up I had a test drive.
First thing I noticed is that squeaky/friction sound when I go full throttle at certain rpm range 2-4k or something like that). That sound appears when the motorcycle is "loaded". By that I mean that I don't hear this sound when the clutch is pressed, So I thought it's maybe because of the new clutch cable I installed and since my spring (engine side) is broken and my clutch cable is adjusted according to manual (3 mm gap on the lever, 3-5mm gap on the lever adjust screw), it could cause it to be partially "unclutched?", so I have decreased the tension using lever adjuster, but it didn't resolve my problem.

I don't feel any drop in performance it's still quick. I hope it's not the camshaft that is making this frictive sound.

Any ideas?
 

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Yo,

So the season has ended. Motorcycle has been passed to winter warehouse just to find that during service. How is that possible, mechanic doesn't know, especially that I rode the bike, till the end. How the engine didn't stall or camchain skipped teeth and destroy valves, no one knows, but what I know is that crankshaft is busted. I have two options. Either find the replacment or get a crankshaft and try to replace it on my own...
 

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