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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2012 Versys 650 with 11K that started stuttering when I would accelerate past 6000RPM. I'm don't know what is causing this. I changed the oil and filter, put in new spark plugs and replaced the air filter with a BMC performance filter but still no change in the condition. I thought I might have
gotten bad gasoline and I put in a fuel cleaner additive but that didn't help it any either. Any one have any experience with this problem or suggestions as to what the problem may be?

I'm thinking the engine is choking for gas. Unfortunately, there is no way to clean the filter which is imbedded in the fuel pump in the gas tank. I'm not positive that it's a fuel delivery issue.

Dealer wants a few bucks to diagnose the problem, and I'm afraid I may have to take them up on it. I can't eliminate ignition problems without having new parts like coils or ECU for diagnosis.

Your help and advice, dear forum members, is greatly appreciated.
 

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your coils might be going out if not that have you tried injector cleaner and or sea foam
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think I saw a thread where someone mentioned Sea Foam to clean fuel lines and injectors. I've never used the product but I think I'll try it. It can't hurt, right? Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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You're only at 11K on a 2012... Does the FI lamp ever go on when it's missing at 6000+ rpm? Does it run perfectly fine from idle to 6000 rpm?
 

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I think I saw a thread where someone mentioned Sea Foam to clean fuel lines and injectors. I've never used the product but I think I'll try it. It can't hurt, right? Thanks for the suggestion.
ive used it on all of my vehicles for years and was taught by my grandfather who did the same.. i put a shot glass full with each fill up (normally around 3-3.5 gallons US)
 

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Pull your coils out and look for hairline cracks in the body of the coil.
also check under the rubber sealing boots as well.

Check you earthing point, under air box and under seat are good and clean.
 

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Disassemble, clean, and secure all battery cables and ground points at frame and engine. Don't take anything about them for granted by just looking.
Verify battery voltage is well into range for charging while running.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow! Thanks for all the suggestions. The majority of them pointing to ignition issues. I just emptied the tank and put in some Purple Max Cleaner. I'm going to take a ride and see if that helps. I'll check to see if the FI comes on at any time.

I'll look into reading the ECU. Thanks for the that suggestion. I have an ECU reader but I don't know if the car plug is compatible with that on the bike.

I will also read the voltages as suggested. It might take me a while, and I will report back all the results. Thanks everyone for the suggestions! :)
 

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There is no connector for an OBD scanner/code reader... You need to ground the orange/black self-diagnosis bullet connector under seat, with ignition on.

The FI light will go OFF after being on, if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.

To recover codes set in memory (Diagnostic Mode 2); KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain grounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session. The codes will readout exactly as in Mode 1.

CODE Malfunction

11_______ Main throttle sensor
12_______ Inlet air pressure sensor
13_______ Inlet air temperature sensor
14_______ Water temperature sensor
21_______ Crankshaft sensor
24 & 25___Speed sensor (24 then 25, repeatedly)
31_______Vehicle-down sensor
32_______Subthrottle sensor
33_______Oxygen sensor inactive (Europe)
51_______Ignition Coil #1
52_______Ignition Coil #2
56_______Radiator Fan Relay
62_______Subthrottle valve actuator (sensor in range but not responding)
64_______Air switching valve
67_______Oxygen sensor heater (Europe)
94_______Oxygen sensor out-of-range

To clear codes from the ECU, enter MODE 2, pull the clutch in for more than 5 seconds.
 

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check the safeties, like most bikes, there are switches built into the side stand, clutch lever and such. if hi rpm/ high vibration is the cause (sounds like) , i would check them as well. loose spark plug cap would also be suspect but the v uses stick coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
An update to my bike problem:

I rode around a bit with the Purple Max Cleaner and premium gas in the tank. The bike ran peppy but it's probably from the higher octane gas. I've been using mid-grade since new. It could be the Purple.

I guess I should apologize at this point for not doing my due diligence in troubleshooting this bike. It's so easy just to ask for help in a great forum like this. I also own several bikes so when I have problems with a bike, I kind of put it in the back of the garage and ride the other bikes. But I really miss riding my Bumble Bee (That's the name of my Versys). It's my all around bike and it rides very well. It's a great bike to tour around in, and I have a blast with it at Deal's Gap (the Dragon). Sorry, I digress.

The engine still stutters above 6K and is progressively worse with more RPM's up to the redline. However, I revved the engine while in neutral up and down all the way to the redline and the engine purrs without one hiccup. Now I realize there is no load so it might not necessarily rule out an engine problem. I also rode along in neutral and noticed a bit of binding in the front wheel. I recently spooned on some new tires and I'm wondering if the engine stuttering isn't caused by the disk brakes binding. The engine doesn't sputter....it stutters, hence the title of the thread. I might have a bent or warped disc up front. So as I go faster, the binding increases with each revolution of the tire. OK. I might be reaching a bit there but I'll put the front tire up on the stand and see how bad this problem is. I'll still follow thru on all the great suggestions from you folks. Lots of great troubleshooting techniques! :thumb:
 

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Well, the stuttering is relative to engine speed (rpm), and not front wheel speed... It could be a weak fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: Put the bike on back and front wheel stands. The front wheel binding is minimal. Duh! I just replaced the brake pads on my Yamaha FJR1300 and the bike has the same kind of rubbing which will probably go away after a couple rides. The stutter or hesitation appears to happen like every 4th revolution of the crank or stroke. I hope it's not a valve problem. I thought I saw a web article about Versys owners in Malaysia trying to sue Kawasaki for recall and warranty repair of defective valves. I'll work on it some more this WE if I don't go up to the Dragon.
 

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Did you adjust your valves? I had a complete tuneup at 10k miles (2012 model), and mine needed it: all valves were then adjusted perfect and what a performance difference that made (best it will ever be)!

People who go longer on valve adjustments are either light weights or do not use the throttle properly for safely getting out of the way of cars! If you don't know where your valve adjustments are at, that would be my number one concern right now unless something else surfaces. But it would be my main goal to find out, before you trash your engine :eek: :eek:

I'll try to dig up the before and after valve measures. It was still running good before the valve adjustment, but I did not have any clue if the valves had been adjusted and when before. Dragster racers say engines run the best (lean) right before they blow up!

ALTHOUGH, I did hear similar concerns of 2011 and 2012 valves from the UK Kawasaki Vs. forum, but could hardly understand what they were saying. I'll keep an eye on my valves and gas mileage, but I have never heard of a successful suit against a motorcycle oem for anything, BMW and up in size or top 6. New valves would not be the end of the world on a big 4 Jap bike, and may assure it of being a 200k miler at least (not done at a stealer of course.)
 

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Check your chain for a tight link.

Mark you chain and sprockets somehow than rotate it and see if the anomoly happens at the same chain position or same sprocket position.

with 120 links the engine and sprocket ratios means they are all out of timing.
if the problem happens at the same mark on the chain then it is a chain link, of the same point on a sprocket then you might have a chip or really worn tooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: Finally got around to checking the bike out. I read the ECM diagnostic code. At first I thought I had the wrong terminal because the FI lite never blinked. So I just unplugged a intake sensor tube just to get an error logged and then I could see the error in Mode 1 and then I saw it logged in Mode 2 and then I cleared the log and took the bike for a ride. (Thanks, Invader for the instructions!)

Afterwards, I checked the ECU and there was nothing logged at all. I noticed the engine rpm's oscillate start earlier at 5000rpm. As I was turning into my street, the oscillation quit and the bike was running smooth at 5K rpm. (I would vary the rpm's and pull the clutch in just to see if the engine continued to oscillate). With the clutch in, the engine just purrs, but when engaged, the engine would start stuttering. I'm still thinking I have a fuel injector (FI) problem with fuel flow. I need to ride it some more and use up the gas with the Purple Max Cleaner. :right:transmission or engine itself. Not likely though. :right:
 

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the book says.....(im shortening it due to copying it from my book)

firing incorectly
spark plugs bad/incorrect
bad coil or wiring
camshaft position trouble
IC igniter in ECU trouble

fuel air mix
air cleaner clogged/Oring damaged
air cleaner loose
water in fuel
throttle body assy holder loose
fuel tank vent clogged
feul pump trouble
low compression
 
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