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Discussion Starter #1
2009 Versys 650, 70000km.

Bike died on the road, the battery was not getting any charge. Bought a spare charged battery to get me home luckily until that drained.

Today I pulled the altenator lead. Checked the resistance which seemed good and then did the voltage test. I was getting nothing out. At idle or 4k rpm the meter didn't register any change at all.

My neighbour has the exact same bike. The resistance was the exact same as mine but the volts were in spec. When he started the bike, the volts were about 25 and at 4k rpm, they were about 42. 14v at the battery while the bike is running.

My bike starts and runs normally, just no juice coming from the stator.

I get a little confused on the terminology. The stater is the little motor that spins the engine to start the bike. Is the magenetic coil that generates the power called the altenator or stator?

Any advice where to go from here would be appreciated.
 

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End of the season here so I have lots to read up on. Is replacing the stator a DIY kind of thing or does it require special shop tools?

Saw your avatar, funny I was born in Kapuskasing.

Crash
 

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The stator is all you need to make it work again, assuming your R/R is still good... You would however make your new stator run much cooler and last longer if you upgrade to a series type R/R.
 

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FYI China Y connected Stator

Ok so a lot of reading for the winter :) The removal and install seems very straight forward, so now I just need to pick the replacement.

Hopefully I find out this one is good, since they are in Canada and the price does not seem too bad.

https://www.rmstator.com/en_ca/produ...6-2014-rm01041
Man the price went sky high. Before I would buy that I would look at a used KLR or 650 Ninja. If you buy that, with shipping etc. you are halfway to OEM, and it isn't close to OEM

I will include a link in the Parts suppliers How To Forum. If you want equal to original equipment , Delta Wound Go to Electrosport
 

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OK, I will see if they sell one of these series regulators too. Bike has 70K on it. I would like to keep it a few more years but not spend money that I don't need too.

I find it funny my 1971 CL 350 with original stator, regulator and rectifier still charges just fine :)

My Versys was supposed to be the reliable bike.
 

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Another Greeting from Charlotte NC

Just joined Forum. Was searching for some answers regards my repeated stator failures on 2011 650, purchased in 2013, now with 22k miles. Failed last summer, so replaced stator and regulator. Just failed again last week. I found my answer here in multiple threads--I need to put in new stator and new Series Polaris regulator which I just ordered off Ebay. Makes sense--I commute in stop and go traffic in 90deg F weather--stator gets pretty hot.
I especially thank onewizard for all his expertise. I wonder why Kawi continue to install such poor OEM design (probably $$), but really bad business to keep installing bad OEM parts with such frequent failures. Thanks again
 

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This seems like a stupid question as I type, but I seriously can't find a straight forward answer. Several have talked of upgrading to a series type r/r, but I can't find any info on which one, specs, gotchas, etc. I haven't worked with electronics since like '96, so anything beyond the basics and I'm lost. Can someone point the way with a link?
onewizard has posted MANY threads about changing to a series R/R. Try SEARCH using his name.
 

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20 20 Vision/ Or Not

This seems like a stupid question as I type, but I seriously can't find a straight forward answer. Several have talked of upgrading to a series type r/r, but I can't find any info on which one, specs, gotchas, etc. I haven't worked with electronics since like '96, so anything beyond the basics and I'm lost. Can someone point the way with a link?
Not trying to be smart but this whole thread has tons of info, check post 10, notice the second paragraph, highlighted Series Regulator, The red text in that post are links, clicking the third one will get you to some of my technical stuff. Search stator, Polaris, CompuFire, all in the How To Forum, my guess is there is at least 24 continuous hours of reading minimum of my posts.

Presently I don't go into detail in anything but the How To Forum due to copyright protection. The basics are all over this forum, however I strive to keep photos and technical details in the How To Forum.
The latest version is discussed by me in post 13, Testacc is my troubleshooting login as a regular member. I have tested it and have photos of it, however it is more suited to a 2015 or newer 650 Versys. No one has installed it as of this writing, my plan as discussed earlier is to do it this winter.

Top of the screen is Tools, https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...s-v-650/120226-posting-editing-searching.html
I have this in each forum under sticky. Keep it simple, lower right the default is All open forums, in the above search, scroll to the How To Forum , then below left click search.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will be waiting to the spring at this point as I have no winter work area. So looking forward to what you get going.
 

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Little bit off the original topic, but If I wanted to install a voltmeter to see the charging, does it have to be connected directly to the battery for that to work? Not a multimeter, but one of those little volt ones I could wire back up to the dash.
 

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Little bit off the original topic, but If I wanted to install a voltmeter to see the charging, does it have to be connected directly to the battery for that to work? Not a multimeter, but one of those little volt ones I could wire back up to the dash.
No, it doesn't have to be connected directly to the battery, although a direct connection would give you the most accurate reading. There will probably be a small difference in readings between one wired directly to the battery and one wired via the bike's wiring harness, due to voltage loss from resistance in the wires in the wiring harness. Think in the range of .1 or .2 volts, but nothing that would prevent you from knowing if the charging system is working or not. I'm using a generic combination Dual USB Port and Voltmeter unit installed in the dash on my 2015, purchased on Amazon. I'm usually seeing 14.7 volts while running the bike, dropping to 13.5 at idle with heated grips, phone charging, GPS and both headlights on. Definitely a recommended addition to the bike.
 

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Lucky I caught Your Post/ Not a Spammer

Just joined Forum. Was searching for some answers regards my repeated stator failures on 2011 650, purchased in 2013, now with 22k miles. Failed last summer, so replaced stator and regulator. Just failed again last week. I found my answer here in multiple threads--I need to put in new stator and new Series Polaris regulator which I just ordered off Ebay. Makes sense--I commute in stop and go traffic in 90deg F weather--stator gets pretty hot.
I especially thank onewizard for all his expertise. I wonder why Kawi continue to install such poor OEM design (probably $$), but really bad business to keep installing bad OEM parts with such frequent failures. Thanks again
You just gained a post count, also I hope you purchased a verified by me 4012941 Polaris, as there are numerous fake ones out there.
 

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Little bit off the original topic, but If I wanted to install a voltmeter to see the charging, does it have to be connected directly to the battery for that to work? Not a multimeter, but one of those little volt ones I could wire back up to the dash.
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...ter-neat-little-digital-bar-graph-others.html

I connected my neat little voltmeter to the auxilliary power in the front near the flasher. FYI when you key on, the display will show the state of the battery. cranking the motor over will give you and idea of the state of the battery, bad connections, shorted cells, etc. , when in doubt you should have the battery load tested, average life of the Yuasa AGM battery is about 6 years to maximum of 8 years. Generally you should be checking the battery voltage with a reliable digital meter 24 hours after riding, or after charging.
What is more important is monitoring charging voltage, OEM regulator shunt style can exceed 14.9 VDC, continued charging at this level will eventually cook the battery, evaporate the electrolyte. A series regulator, both compufire and polaris start clipping at 14.2 VDC, the output of the regulator is far more important, as the bike is designed to run off the regulator Not the battery, also a bad battery becomes a load on the stator, ( not to worry about if you have a shunt regulator, as the stator outputs 100% whenever possible anyway).
 

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Onewizard I purchased Polaris Regulator-3Ph 50A Series 4016868 (was recommended by you on one of your earlier posts). I hope that works, plan to install it this weekend.
 

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Polaris & CompuFire/Plug & Play/ No Such Thing

First we are in the age of simplicity, we pay $$$$$ so that no further knowledge is required to use this equipment, unbeknownst to many is that there usually is compromises being made to accomplish this. An example is my Denali Data Dim D2 , led lighting, to have low and high beam switched , you need to buy another special plugin switch from Denali. The included single pole switch will not work for turning on high beam, However , using a jewelers slot screwdriver, I have relocated 2 wires in the included harness, and accomplished getting high beam switched with the included S.P. switch, my low beam comes on the instant the key is turned on, and I can also have high beam on with just the key on, using the S.P. switch.


So Plug & Play / Polaris / Compufire / No Existy

So I upgraded several threads in How To and added clarification.

This is the MK-1&2 updated post, however if you look in the How To, all related info is there, however I haved used a green arrow for the latest.

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...gulator-install-mk-1-mk-2-revised-2018-a.html

MK-3 update
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...ulator-install-gen-3-650s-revised-2018-a.html

One thing that doesn't seem clear at times is the difference between series and shunt. My analogy would be if our speed was controlled solely by means of the clutch, the motor run at maximum speed at rev limit= equal to the shunt regulator, no throttle in existence. When the motor failed it would be due to the fact that it was running at 100% speed ( not HP but close to what I am trying to explain). In the Versys stator case, this stator is something like $450, absolutely nothing wrong with the 2018 design. The flaw is the $20 approximate cost or less, in electronics of the regulator :frown2: which is the root cause of the stator failure.

For some reason Kawasaki has decided to ignore this, one feature is the new ninja 650 appears to have a possible series regulator, unfortunately the new member has never responded to me after my first helping him. Also there was a request for someone with a V1000 to test there regulator , that hasn't happened either.

Anyone with a V1000 2015 or newer want to test VAC at the regulator @ 2000 RPM while outputing DC to the battery:feedback:
 

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Explanation Why V1000 Regulator Help

Someone with a V1000 and a AC voltmeter want to volunteer, contact me.

I updated the above post simply because this has been talked about by 3 different members in the past 2 weeks. I came to realize that some of my posts were lost in other forums , one of them was Series regulator, why bother. Due to copyright I have edited and created some new posts and threads in the How To forum.


When someone asks what is a triumph harness, that is a red flag to me that my explanation of install hasn't been read. When I first started this, I was using T&B insulated crimp connectors, I still use them, however most doing this conversion lack proper crimping pliers / crimper's and also lack the knowledge in how to do a proper crimp. To compound that, the Polaris male spade terminals are about .006 " thicker, I open up the T&B , However the Triumph harness has the crimps and sockets that match the Polaris, and they are all pre crimped with extra wire, I can't buy the parts at whole sale for what the harness sells for. So I now endorse using the Triumph harness on all Polaris installs.


I have made up several regulator/ Harnesses and sold to Fasteddie , [and here's a pic of it - "fasteddie"]



when complete , it would be virtually impossible to remove the harness from the regulator by grabbing the complete wire harness, only way would be one wire at a time. I use SEW high temperature wire and T&B crimps, then high temperature silicone, this is 100% overkill but you won't get a failure from a poor connection on the regulator made by me. FYI I have zero interest it doing this, as I am retired.
 
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