Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I had a semi-fail at using a top notch tool to peen over the standard EK MVXZ Hollow Nose Master Link a couple of months.

The chain rivet tool kept sliding off the factory peen and damaging the link. It basically would not flare the hollow nose. When I rang the local EK distributor he said the Hollow Nose Master Link is too hard for pretty much all rivet tools and recommends that only the EK Chain tool @AU$300+ will do it, but it's out of reach of DIY'ers, and best to peen it over with lump and ball end hammers. Or I can use a Clip link or the new Screw Master Link.
Ok - lets try the hammers 1st.

So I was successful when I used a lump hammer and ball end hammer, but one of the master links was a bit tight and stayed kinked when riding. It was easily moveable by hand but too tight that it held a kink. That was a few months ago...

So 2 weeks ago I rang up the local EK Distributor again and asked about new Master links... He suggested try the new Screw type master link or just use a clip link.

So I bought 1x Screw Type master and 2x Clip master links (as spares) but they only had them in Gold. Pity as my chain has Black links.
They arrived the next day and he also threw in a silver standard hollow nose master link if I wanted to back that route.


As nobody here has fitted them... here are Pics of the install of the EK MVXZ 520 Screw type master links.
Fitting was very easy as you did not have to worry about the peen size or over tightening the links.


1) Fit Nuts and hand tighten, then use 6mm spanner alternating between Nuts with a 1/4 turn at a time to press plate on:



2) Back off the Screw Nuts every so often till you pass the 2nd indentation and until you show a little bit of the pin shaft (instruction say crank it till you cannot hand tighten it - 6mm spanners are not long so you cannot over torque them with hands only)





3) Take the Nuts off and with pliers grab the bolt end so tip is near 1st indentation and bend in the direction of chain links - not towards axel. Bolt will snap of at 1st indentation:



4) Bolts snapped off:



5) Fully installed with O-ring's for extra safety ?WTF?



6) Fully installed showing you the thickness of the protruding part - approx 2-3mm more than factory peen:


Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
I have always used RK chains, this time I ordered an EK MVXZ to give it a try...

I guess my Motion Pro tool, that worked with all other chains, won't work with this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Chain-Breaker-Riveting/dp/B002PZF73S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1424627860&sr=1-4&keywords=motion+pro+chain+tool

I rather order another chain!
My Stockton Tool chain tool from Cycle Gear worked fine on the MVXZ.

The screw link doesn't sound bad (the way clip links do), but moto mummy won't carry them (because it's slightly less reliable), and I'll probably stick with rivets.
Here's their take:
http://forum.motomummy.com/index.php?/topic/70-motomummy-chain-review/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top