NOPE, the 02 sensors are disabled. you're running on my fueling. and it's not lean. SteveYes, I thought you mentioned that the oxygen sensor kicks in once you reach a steady RPM, correct me if I am wrong, the time I am at idle and accelerating the temperature sensor is saying it is cold and add more fuel, once I level out at say 6000 RPM , the ECU looks at the oxygen sensor and modifies the fueling compared to the inlet temperature. So at 3'C , every-time I downshift or accelerate the default is the inlet air temperature?? I shall await your reply Steve, FYI I have some really neat stickers on the bike, I used super glue on two locations to make sure they don't come off.> And :grin2::grin2::grin2: very hard not to:grin2:, what a amazing difference. That fuel mileage is accurate, it just proved what the computer says. I was genuinely surprised when I did the calculation. As to riding around 80 KM/HR , really hard to adjust my wrist to react that way, but maybe when this pandemic is all over, I will ride slower in the North country where fuel is far between , many small operators are gone, small towns can't survive , 300 KM between stations is normal, all you need is one of those to close and you are SOL. So I now carry 4 Sigg fuel bottles in my mortar round cases, I figure if I am desperate, I can get 100 KM more.That fuel is premium , stabilized, primarily used on all my small engines, as no ethanol in it. I do have a ethanol test kit.As you and many understand there is no advantage to premium , I also use Lucas top end conditioner , about 1.5 ounces to a tank. This is the first winter I have started to use premium in the snowblower etc. on advice from a large small engine repair shop. There have been studies done, that show stabilized fuel does very little to stop the damage from ethanol in the way of corrosion, it's prime purpose is to keep the burning properties of the fuel alive for up to a year ( some say two years , that is stretching it ).