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Glad to hear the tune/flash is now available for the 2018 versys 650 models. I'll probably spring for the tune over the winter when I'm not riding.

I posted a few weeks ago about how the bike finally feels smooth and broken in after 2000 miles. Yes it's a great improvement, but for a $250 tune, it would be nice to have more of the lower rpms available.
Just to note that the ECU update doesn't just make the lower rpms usable, but actually more desirable. The throttle response after the update is so smooth it's almost shocking the difference it makes. No sudden engine braking when you back off the throttle is another huge benefit. It just makes the bike more comfortable, and I believe more capable, to ride.

The bike feels like its had a complete personality change for the better.
 

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For those interested in this flash AND an aftermarket exhaust, I have about 2000 miles on my 2016 with the flash and LeoVince exhaust, about half of that with the 'baffle' insert in the exhaust, and half with it out. It runs very well with this combo, I prefer it with the baffle out and will keep it that way as throttle response is just a touch quicker and it really rips when getting deep into the throttle(also sounds much much better). I was making some effortless passes without needing the usual downshift in NM last week.

I calculate my MPG on almost every tank and cant say the tune has hurt mileage at all, just like before its wholly dependent on the right hand. On this last trip I saw a low of 44mpg after 100 miles on SH130 to and from COTA for MotoGP (85mph speed limit), and a high of 66mpg after 100 miles of slow and lazy backroads around Santa Fe, NM (high altitude helped I think). Average mileage about to 50-55mpg which is what I was seeing with just the LeoVince exhaust for 5000 miles before the tune was added.

Initially I was a bit hesitant to grab the tune as it was developed for bike with stock exhaust, but I couldnt be happier. So much smoother on the bottom end, and noticeable increased pickup through the middle and in the higher revs. Worth every penny, thanks Steve!
I'll second the fact that the tune works great with the LeoVince SBK underbody exhaust. I posted my initial review back on page 3, but didn't mention that I'm running with an aftermarket exhaust. I discussed it with Steve before buying, and he said that while he understandably couldn't confirm performance with an aftermarket exhaust, it would likely be fine and that intake mods would have more effect than exhaust. My intake is 100% stock. The tune is still running great and a night-and-day improvement over stock.

Good news for all you 17-18 owners! You can finally join the club and enjoy a much better riding experience.

A few folks talked about adapting to the stock behavior of the bike, but that's not applicable here. The tune doesn't just make the throttle a little smoother, it makes the engine feel like a parallel twin should feel. If I wanted to be restricted to riding around town at 5000 rpm just to keep the engine happy I'd buy a super sport. The Versys is supposed to be versatile: good for a wide variety of riding. With the tune you can still romp on the bike at high RPM, but you can also roll through town at 2500 rpm and enjoy the torque a twin is supposed to provide! My last bike (Suzuki GSX-650F) had some throttle snatch and I adapted just fine. With the Versys it was the combination of the snatchy throttle AND engine character in the 2500 - 4000 RPM range that didn't match my experience on older bikes with this same 650 twin engine. I'm not interested in adapting to an engine that's not performing optimally due to crappy tuning because of emission requirements. I'd much rather pay $250 and have a bike that runs properly. I bought the exhaust for the sound, not for performance, and I have no desire for any other "performance" mods. I wasn't chasing more power with this tune, just an engine that runs like it should. :)
 

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FINALLY! did you see any reason the first one kept getting bounced back?
Possibly illiterate postal workers. The postal code is perfect, however a ding dong may be confused about the country It looks like Corado . I recognize it as Canada ,, the postal code gives the province city and street. You put the postal code in a GPS and fire a missile, guaranteed to be within 200 feet of my house.
 

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Hey! I only got two stickers. How come you got 4?
 
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Airconditioning / Advertising 101

Hey! I only got two stickers. How come you got 4?
>:):goodidea::thanx::funnypost: Well , sometimes I still learn the hard-way, stickers application, clean surface---make sure you are paying attention while removing the backing, use left eye only--oops too late, sticker is now rotated 15' clockwise--FYI removing and reapplying sticker may look like it worked--However:surprise: using the pressure washer, not a good idea. Hey I found the sticker 2 months later, inside a cardboard box, thought of using superglue to stick it back on. So I made a special request to Santa , it took several tries as it seems the reindeer don't come to Canada too often and seem confused by our postal code system. I have lost count how many times it came back to Steve, I think it was twice, so the third mailing Rudolf must have intercepted it Himself.

And the number I had no control over. But I think Steve must know I am going to plaster my Bike with these, as I can't truly thank him enough, this is like a new improved version of the Versys.

I will include the fact that yes booster plugs do work, but one change, that is impossible to occur with a booster plug or without spending about the same cost as the flash on a new controller to bring the cooling fan on sooner, which the new flash includes .

Yes , for those familiar with air conditioning for residential, using even a window shaker, leaving the air on 24/7 is the correct way, allowing a slight rise during the day to match the outside temperature and dropping the set point at night is the way to operate correctly. Many central air units have a dehumidifier cycle , the first 2 or 3 minutes of the cycle start / compressor is energized , the fan runs at a reduced RPM, this removes moisture from the air, after that time period, the fan increase in RPM. Just a FYI, heat transfer increases with higher humidity** man talking about going off on a tangent** modified the title as I will never find this post if I looked for it.
OK- the connection to air-conditioning and our cooling fan set point to turn on. Many people think that while no one is home during the day while at work, leave the AC off, so they get home** walk in and the heat is overwhelming , on goes the AC, central air or window shaker , so now the AC needs to remove the heat from the furniture, from the walls the heat radiating in from outside, the very first thing that happens is we remove moisture, so our heat transfer is affected. So now the AC unit is trying to remove all that energy ( heat is energy ) it is also trying to keep up with the radiation coming through the walls, so eventually it will shut off, but because it takes time for heat transfer, much of the furniture; walls and floor have retained heat, so on goes the cycle again , so we suck more moisture out of the air, usually too much moisture and it now reduces the efficiency of heat transfer, dries out the air and affects the flooring and real wood furniture.
So leading up to our motorcycle and the flash, the correct way or better way, is to maintain, a, away, and return set point on the T stat, remove only the heat radiating into the house and staying within say 4'C differential ,day or night, I could easily go further but here comes our bike, the flash Steve did, several of us complained about the "fan on" set point, roughly 214'F, so if you are in traffic, on a hot day, we are 2'F above boiling and the fan comes on, that means the engine and radiator are all with 214'F water plus the energy we are adding with our throttle, FYI , cooling to the radiator stops around 60 KM/HR or something like that Bill at ThermoBob told me and he should know as he is a engineer , I could be off by 10'F but am pretty sure I am close. So with the flash, my fan comes on around 197'F I am now removing heat and what I find is it goes to 205'F maximum and then drops back to 197'F after say 3 to 5 minutes. My engine , winter or summer runs between 187'F and 205'F , my rad cap could completely fail, it will never boil over at a total pressure loss because it never gets that hot. Yes some may question this , think about it, you want to heat water to 197'F, it takes more energy to get to 214'F , a considerably more amount of energy. So if I start removing energy before I get there, I am removing energy more frequently, however my motor is running at a stable set point, even if I crank my motor to 8000 RPM ( below 60 KM/HR)for a short burst to pass someone, I never go over 205'F .

:nerd: Yes how did 4 stickers get to running a house window shaker and the ECU Flash>:)?? That is how my brain works, :surprise:
 

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...Yes , for those familiar with air conditioning for residential, using even a window shaker, leaving the air on 24/7 is the correct way, allowing a slight rise during the day to match the outside temperature and dropping the set point at night is the way to operate correctly. Many central air units have a dehumidifier cycle , the first 2 or 3 minutes of the cycle start / compressor is energized , the fan runs at a reduced RPM, this removes moisture from the air, after that time period, the fan increase in RPM. Just a FYI, heat transfer increases with higher humidity** man talking about going off on a tangent** modified the title as I will never find this post if I looked for it.
OK- the connection to air-conditioning and our cooling fan set point to turn on. Many people think that while no one is home during the day while at work, leave the AC off, so they get home** walk in and the heat is overwhelming , on goes the AC, central air or window shaker , so now the AC needs to remove the heat from the furniture, from the walls the heat radiating in from outside, the very first thing that happens is we remove moisture, so our heat transfer is affected. So now the AC unit is trying to remove all that energy ( heat is energy ) it is also trying to keep up with the radiation coming through the walls, so eventually it will shut off, but because it takes time for heat transfer, much of the furniture; walls and floor have retained heat, so on goes the cycle again , so we suck more moisture out of the air, usually too much moisture and it now reduces the efficiency of heat transfer, dries out the air and affects the flooring and real wood furniture.
So leading up to our motorcycle and the flash, the correct way or better way, is to maintain, a, away, and return set point on the T stat, remove only the heat radiating into the house and staying within say 4'C differential ,day or night, I could easily go further but here comes our bike, the flash Steve did, several of us complained about the "fan on" set point, roughly 214'F, so if you are in traffic, on a hot day, we are 2'F above boiling and the fan comes on, that means the engine and radiator are all with 214'F water plus the energy we are adding with our throttle, FYI , cooling to the radiator stops around 60 KM/HR or something like that Bill at ThermoBob told me and he should know as he is a engineer , I could be off by 10'F but am pretty sure I am close. So with the flash, my fan comes on around 197'F I am now removing heat and what I find is it goes to 205'F maximum and then drops back to 197'F after say 3 to 5 minutes. My engine , winter or summer runs between 187'F and 205'F , my rad cap could completely fail, it will never boil over at a total pressure loss because it never gets that hot. Yes some may question this , think about it, you want to heat water to 197'F, it takes more energy to get to 214'F , a considerably more amount of energy. So if I start removing energy before I get there, I am removing energy more frequently, however my motor is running at a stable set point, even if I crank my motor to 8000 RPM ( below 60 KM/HR)for a short burst to pass someone, I never go over 205'F ....
FWIW - when I was setting up to heat my farm-house w/ wood back in the '90s (in Ontario), the engineer I was working w/ mentioned THERMAL-INERTIA and explained it this way:

When your house is cold (ie - around freezing) EVERYTHING in it is at that temp so to warm the house you need to warm up EVERYTHING in the house, TONS of stuff, not just the air, and of course - the same goes when you want to cool your house from say 85F to 68F - and the THERMAL-INERTIA is what makes the change take so long... the inertia is from the stuff resisting the temp change.

:eek:
 

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Second Opinion

FWIW - when I was setting up to heat my farm-house w/ wood back in the '90s (in Ontario), the engineer I was working w/ mentioned THERMAL-INERTIA and explained it this way:

When your house is cold (ie - around freezing) EVERYTHING in it is at that temp so to warm the house you need to warm up EVERYTHING in the house, TONS of stuff, not just the air, and of course - the same goes when you want to cool your house from say 85F to 68F - and the THERMAL-INERTIA is what makes the change take so long... the inertia is from the stuff resisting the temp change.

:eek:
I read your statement out and guess what, my wife said that was a really good explanation, and said I should forward that:clap::clap::clap::thumb::thumb::thumb: :goodidea: :thanx::eek:penarms: And a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year from the both of us.
 

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My wife was quite unhappy with the throttle action on her new '18. I tried a Booster Plug to practically no avail. It made pretty much no detectable difference.
I understand the ECU program was altered a little after '16 or '17 and that may account for the ineffectual results.
I had been in contact with Steve of Shoodaben over other things- he's the Concours guru to end all gurus- and the V650 came up. He was both moving the shop and occasionally developing the flash. I held out until he e-mailed he was ready.
Ten days or so later the box was back under the seat.
Now, the Missus, the actual owner of the Versys, has fallen well out of love with the bike (another story!) but I ride it from time to time. Plus, she rode it on a shortish overnighter trip.
We agree the low-opening throttle response is vastly better, almost cured. Better, the hit-a-brick-wall upon closing the throttle is also mostly gone.
Yet the things I like best about the Shoodaben flash are two: I swear there's a distinct power increase in the midrange, most noticeably 4000-7000rpm.
But best of all is the engine runs much more smoothly in that same range. The handlebar vibration is so reduced as to make it feel like a whole different bike. (Noting- this bike has the old Heli MultiTour Sport handlebars pirated from my departed GPZ1100E, and they thudded less than the stockers.)
Money well spent is the verdict in this household. Plus dealing with Steve S. is both a pleasure and educational as all get-out.

Bill
 

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I read your statement out and guess what, my wife said that was a really good explanation, and said I should forward that:clap::clap::clap::thumb::thumb::thumb: :goodidea: :thanx::eek:penarms: And a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year from the both of us.
Sorry to be so tardy in replying (no idea HOW I missed your post!), but I'm glad it helped, and greetings back to you and your bride!

:thanx:
 

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Fuel Mileage

First ride in 2020, average is 20.43 KM per liter, using 5 month old stabilized gas . this is at or above 100 KM/HR. If I reduce speed to 80 -90 KM/HR my mileage goes up to 26 KM/liter . At a temperature around 3'C using a #4 Thermo Bob, made for snow bikes, mounted on the outlet of my motor.Total distance 403Km, with heated gear at 8 and grips at 75%, running both low and high beam LED headlights.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
First ride in 2020, average is 20.43 KM per liter, using 5 month old stabilized gas . this is at or above 100 KM/HR. If I reduce speed to 80 -90 KM/HR my mileage goes up to 26 KM/liter . At a temperature around 3'C using a #4 Thermo Bob, made for snow bikes, mounted on the outlet of my motor.Total distance 403Km, with heated gear at 8 and grips at 75%, running both low and high beam LED headlights.

I wish I knew what that meant is US measurement... is it good fuel economy? As we both know, cold weather is rough on economy as the fuel doesn't atomize and pools in the intake ports and condenses on the cold cylinder walls. My versys 1000 has a 140* thermostat, and that's a real hindrance. When it's even 75* ambient (f) the coolant is running about 145*. To cold for efficiency. I'm working to find a fix for that.
 

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I wish I knew what that meant is US measurement... is it good fuel economy? As we both know, cold weather is rough on economy as the fuel doesn't atomize and pools in the intake ports and condenses on the cold cylinder walls. My versys 1000 has a 140* thermostat, and that's a real hindrance. When it's even 75* ambient (f) the coolant is running about 145*. To cold for efficiency. I'm working to find a fix for that.
Calculator:

https://www.unitjuggler.com/convert-fuelconsumption-from-kmperl-to-mpg.html?val=28

You will have to change the input to km/liter.

Or just multiply the km/l figure by 2.35

Have fun over there in the woods.
 

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Calculator:

https://www.unitjuggler.com/convert-fuelconsumption-from-kmperl-to-mpg.html?val=28

You will have to change the input to km/liter.

Or just multiply the km/l figure by 2.35

Have fun over there in the woods.
Well I learned something new again. So at 110 to 130 KM/HR I am getting 2.352 X 20.47 =48 miles to the gallon If I slowed down using Steve's flash I would be getting 63 miles to the gallon ( since no one competing on the road, I held the 80 to 90 KM/HR for well over 2 KM, just to see, this is flat and uphill riding, it was steady at 26-27 KM/liter) and for those with pre MK-3 , you can set it to display average or display current, current takes 10 seconds or longer of steady fuel consumption before it changes . And that is with 5 month old stabilized fuel with up to 10% ethanol in it , at a average air temperature of 3'C. FYI I don't aim to get good, or excellent gas mileage , my aim is to enjoy the ride. With that flash, I am way beyond the :grin2:, it is what someone said to me Shoodaben , no question, I can't see how this could get any better. I forgot one thing, that is with both the trekker side cases and the Givi 56 fully loaded, don't ask what I was carrying, but I donated to a remote book drop.
One point some may have missed, the computer displayed fuel mileage was proven when I filled up and used the GPS distance combined with the displayed fuel I pumped into the tank, I fill just to the top of the tank, so before I left, I topped up my tank to that level.
 

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...So at 110 to 130 KM/HR I am getting 2.352 X 20.47 =48 miles to the gallon....
FWIW - the past ('19 - '20) season in AZ w/ my '08 V650, I USUALLY got 50 mpgUS, but as high as 55 mpgUS once-in-awhile.

>:)
 

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FWIW - the past ('19 - '20) season in AZ w/ my '08 V650, I USUALLY got 50 mpgUS, but as high as 55 mpgUS once-in-awhile.

>:)
What were the ambient temps in Az? Mr Wizard is running under 40*F, which is going to really ding the fuel economy. I was getting in the 50's with mine during the spring / summer in FL. Yes, the thermobob helps, but the ambient sensor still relays info that the air is cold.
Steve
 

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What were the ambient temps in Az? Mr Wizard is running under 40*F, which is going to really ding the fuel economy. I was getting in the 50's with mine during the spring / summer in FL. Yes, the thermobob helps, but the ambient sensor still relays info that the air is cold.
Steve
Yes, I thought you mentioned that the oxygen sensor kicks in once you reach a steady RPM, correct me if I am wrong, the time I am at idle and accelerating the temperature sensor is saying it is cold and add more fuel, once I level out at say 6000 RPM , the ECU looks at the oxygen sensor and modifies the fueling compared to the inlet temperature. So at 3'C , every-time I downshift or accelerate the default is the inlet air temperature?? I shall await your reply Steve, FYI I have some really neat stickers on the bike, I used super glue on two locations to make sure they don't come off.>:) And :grin2::grin2::grin2: very hard not to:grin2:, what a amazing difference. That fuel mileage is accurate, it just proved what the computer says. I was genuinely surprised when I did the calculation. As to riding around 80 KM/HR , really hard to adjust my wrist to react that way, but maybe when this pandemic is all over, I will ride slower in the North country where fuel is far between , many small operators are gone, small towns can't survive , 300 KM between stations is normal, all you need is one of those to close and you are SOL. So I now carry 4 Sigg fuel bottles in my mortar round cases, I figure if I am desperate, I can get 100 KM more.That fuel is premium , stabilized, primarily used on all my small engines, as no ethanol in it. I do have a ethanol test kit.As you and many understand there is no advantage to premium , I also use Lucas top end conditioner , about 1.5 ounces to a tank. This is the first winter I have started to use premium in the snowblower etc. on advice from a large small engine repair shop. There have been studies done, that show stabilized fuel does very little to stop the damage from ethanol in the way of corrosion, it's prime purpose is to keep the burning properties of the fuel alive for up to a year ( some say two years , that is stretching it ).
 
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