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Do you use synthetic oil?

40K views 108 replies 48 participants last post by  Fastoman 
#1 ·
I was wondering if any of you recommend using Mobil 1 or other synthetic oils in your Versys?
 
#2 ·
unless the owners manuel calls for it ,no, I run it in my Triumph as it calls for it , but use Valvoline or Pennzoil MC oil in my Versys,it is more than up to doing the job.Ps this thread is gonna get like all other oil threads so i will not return :eek::blah:
 
#6 ·
I am using AMS Oil since the first oil change and have had no problem for my 11000 KM:teetertooter:
 
#7 ·
Oil changes are cheap insurance for engine life. Using synthetic oil should be fine in almost any motor that is still relatively low miles on it. This obviously varies engine to engine. I won't be waiting 6k miles between changes regardless of what type.:forgetit:
 
#8 ·
I run syn. for 10k, have for years and have had no problems. Several bikes with more miles on them then most people ride in their whole life.
 
#9 ·
Oil change intervals is actually recommended at every 7500 miles (12000 kms)... I use Amsoil synthetic, and change it at every 2500 miles or so. You can get any Amsoil product from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm at over 20% off with the promo code. I end up saving over 40% compared to getting it from Canadian Tire, and it's at my door in a couple days after ordering. :thumb:
 
#11 ·
There are no special requirements; however, in older vehicles or those with high mileage, it may be advisable to use AMSOIL Engine Flush first. This will ensure that the engine is clean and free of any accumulated contaminants which might have an effect on the service life of AMSOIL Motor Oils. In all cases, it is good judgement to install a new AMSOIL Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter (EaO) every time you change oil.

In modern vehicles, there is no risk of AMSOIL motor oil leaking. In fact, AMSOIL motor oil is fully compatible with modern seal materials. It is properly formulated to condition seals, keeping them pliable to prevent leakage.

These were copied from the Amsoil Website FAQ located HERE

One of the sponsors of these Motorcycle forums is a Amsoil Dealer. I would suggest you contact them if you have any questions. If you decide to go the Amsoil route which I personally very highly suggest <G> be sure to look into a preferred customer account. It will pay for itself in no time at all.
I use Amsoil products and will soon be changing the V over to it and will then be 100% Amsoil.
 
#12 ·
I use Castrol Synthetic 5-40 automotive because I bought a bunch on sale for my VW diesel. Basically any automotive oil will work as long as it does not have the energy saving logo on the bottle. The friction modifiers they add to make it "energy saving" don't work well with the wet clutch most bikes have.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Only engine oils of up to W-30 viscosity can be energy conserving rated. Friction modifiers which are not wet clutch compatible are still found in some automotive W-40 and higher viscosity oils. Motorcycle specific oils are JASO MA certified for high friction applications, as recommended by Kawasaki.
From Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol Edge 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol’s prime recommendation for this application is Castrol R4 Superbike."

"Castrol does not recommend using automotive oils in motorcycles. In 1996, the American Petroleum Institute (API) upgraded the performance standards of automotive oil from SG to SJ (currently SM). This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers and zinc and phosphorus levels, to address the fuel economy, catalytic converter and pollution issues of passenger car owners. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance, and motorcycle engines appreciate a higher level of the anti-wear ingredients of zinc and phosphorus. We have formulated our line of Castrol Motorcycle oils to be API SG. This allows us to optimize the formula specifically for motorcycles without being constrained by the specification demands for passenger car engines, which our passenger car oil must meet. All Castrol Motorcycle oils have low volatility to reduce the effects of oil evaporation, and they can be up to 50% lower than many API SL/SJ passenger car engine oils. API SJ engine oils have a minimal shear stability requirement; therefore, some types may lose their viscosity more quickly when used in a motorcycle, due to the stresses of these bike engines."

There's also Shell's excellent Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 that's available for less as it's not JASO MA labeled, but still passes the tests. According to Richard Moore, Staff Engineer at Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc., Westhollow Technology Center, Houston, TX (800-231-6950):
"We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4, discontinued) and our Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4. All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 and our Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do meet JASO MA."

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework...lla-en/html/iwgen/products/products_home.html
 
#13 ·
My experience has been if you use a good quuality petroleum based oil (i.e. GTX, Valvoline, etc) and change your oil every 3000 miles, you'll be just fine. I have a KLR650A1 that has 34,000 miles on it and I have had no trouble with the bike at all. When I did the "doohicky"" upgrade the inside of the engine was clean with no apparant excessive wear. The synthetics are good oils to use if you are going to run the snot out of the bike or are in an area of extreme heat. Just my 2 cents.
Greg
 
#14 ·
My experience has been if you use a good quuality petroleum based oil (i.e. GTX, Valvoline, etc) and change your oil every 3000 miles, you'll be just fine. The synthetics are good oils to use if you are going to run the snot out of the bike or are in an area of extreme heat. Just my 2 cents.
Greg
:thumb:

Using synthetics because of the hot humid weather here, smoother shifting and our V have only 1.7L (without oil filter change) in her.
 
#15 ·
I only use synthetic if I feel a problem to start w/. Then I only stay w/it, if I feel a nice improvement. Rotella T either way, but usually the standard stuff for cheap. I change it every 5K miles or every 6 months, whichever comes first (As a rule.). I just don't believe it's that critical...
 
#19 ·
I have a car with 120,000 miles and change the oil with Syn. every 5000 miles. I also have a car that requires an oil change every 15,000. Nobody knows your engine oil requirements better that it's maker.
My Versys is new with less than 200 miles but at the 800 mile check I will go with Amsoil motorcycle oil and change it every 10,000.
I also use syn. in my John Deere rider, wave runner, Volvo and Porsche and GMC Typhoon(120,000 miles).
Because of the wet clutch try to use only motorcycle oil.

Cb
 
#21 · (Edited)
My Versys is new with less than 200 miles but at the 800 mile check I will go with Amsoil motorcycle oil and change it every 10,000. Cb
After seeing the amount of particulates that I got (and others have reported) out of my first oil changes (almost all of which appeared to just be clutch material) I highly recommend that you change the oil now and then again after another 600 miles or so.

And given that the oil does bathe the clutch, I think you’d really be doing the engine an injustice by ever pushing it to 10,000 miles.
 
#20 ·
Use whatever you like as long as it is JASO MA certified. Always change the oil filter (I never understood why people would change the oil and not the filter). The cleaner you keep your oil the fewer contaminates you will have in your engine. My understanding is that you should use petroleum based oil until you have completed the engine break-in. I believe that the manufacturer's oil change interval is based on using petroleum based oil so you could go longer with synthetic, but why! It only takes two quarts and a filter, plus it is so damn easy! Take care of your engine and it will take care of you!!!
 
#22 ·
My understanding is that you should use petroleum based oil until you have completed the engine break-in.
+1

Synthetics will not allow a new engine to break in properly. Run dyno stuff until the engine has at least 1000 miles on it.
I run Rotella T products, switched to synth at my 4000 mile change.
(I change oil every 4000 miles simply because this has been the interval for most of the bikes I have owned)

But really, the manuf recommended interval is fine. They know the engine better than anyone. And even then, I believe most manufacturers err on the conservative side. Modern oils are quite good.
 
#24 ·
I have been using Synthetic Mobil-1 in my Honda VTX for 4 years and in my Versys for 2 years. I purchase 10-40 from Autozone. I am sure to buy the NON-ENERGY CONSERVING brand. Autozone has the motorcycle brands in a separate section.

Both bikes run great, no clutch issues, very satisfied. I changes over to Synthetic at less than 1000 miles on both bikes. The VTX now has 42,000 miles on it and the Versys has 10,500 miles.
 
#26 ·
Pretty much my point. I'll even go a little further and say the synthetic is better stuff. Question is: Does that theory really apply practically? I've never seen it (That I know of, anyway.). Now, it may make a genuine difference in shifting. That, I have experienced a few times. There are numerous analogies that would apply, but it seems simple enough: If synthetic is theoretically better, but it doesn't show in practical, real-world situations, it's not worth it. There are cases where it is worth it. It's just not the case for me on public roads, on most bikes. Then, again, if it makes you feel better, and you have the funds/desire, go for it. I have no real argument there, either.
 
#33 ·
I use fish oil from the local Japanese restaurants. The stuff they dump mid week meets JASO MA (it is a Japanese restaurant after all) and is environmentally friendly. Don't go to restaurants that use MSG, though, not good for the bike and the exhaust smells funny.

;)


Gustavo
 
#36 ·
Single/Multi Grade oil

Single-grade
A single-grade engine oil, as defined by SAE J300, cannot use a polymeric Viscosity Index Improver (also referred to as Vicosity Modifier) additive. SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation. The 11 viscosity grades are 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the 'weight' of a motor oil.

For single winter grade oils, the dynamic viscosity is measured at different cold temperatures, specified in J300 depending on the viscosity grade, in units of mPa·s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centipoise (abbreviated cP), using two different test methods. They are the Cold Cranking Simulator (ASTM D5293) and the Mini-Rotary Viscometer (ASTM D4684). Based on the coldest temperature the oil passes at, that oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The lower the viscosity grade, the lower the temperature the oil can pass. For example, if an oil passes at the specifications for 10W and 5W, but fails for 0W, then that oil must be labeled as an SAE 5W. That oil cannot be labeled as either 0W or 10W.

For single non-winter grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a temperature of 100 °C (212 °F) in units of mm²/s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. In addition, for SAE grades 20, 30, and 40, a minimum viscosity measured at 150 °C (302 °F) and at a high-shear rate is also required. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE viscosity grade is.

For some applications, such as when the temperature ranges in use are not very wide, single-grade motor oil is satisfactory; for example, lawn mower engines, industrial applications, and vintage or classic cars.

:cheers: Multi-grade
The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a lower viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for most single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIIs are added to the oil. These additives are used to make the oil a multi-grade motor oil, however it is possible to have a multi-grade oil without the use of VIIs. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base grade when cold and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This enables one type of oil to be generally used all year. In fact, when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two viscosity grades; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The two numbers used are individually defined by SAE J300 for single-grade oils. Therefore, an oil labeled as 10W-30 must pass the SAE J300 viscosity grade requirement for both 10W and 30, and all limitations placed on the viscosity grades (for example, a 10W-30 oil must fail the J300 requirements at 5W). Also, if an oil does not contain any VIIs, and can pass as a multi-grade, that oil can be labeled with either of the two SAE viscosity grades. For example, a very simple multi-grade oil that can be easily made with modern baseoils without any VII is a 20W-20. This oil can be labeled as 20W-20, 20W, or 20. Note, if any VIIs are used however, then that oil cannot be labeled as a single grade.

The real-world ability of an oil to crank or pump when cold is potentially diminished soon after it is put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle , but can vary from country to country when climatic or fuel efficiency constraints come into play.

Hope this is of some help.
:cheers:
 
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