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I've got about 700mi on my Versys and would like to do a slip on exhaust. I'm wondering if anybody knows if I need to put in a power commander as well if I get any after market exhaust? I'd rather not spend the extra $300 but if I must then I must. Please let me know.
 

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I have a Muzzy header and slip-on silencer, and it runs just fine without a Power Commander. I do use 91 octane, and I removed the secondary throttle plates. I also disactivated the air switching valve which is there to protect the cat by adding air to exhaust gases upon engine braking, but would cause exhaust popping with a slip-on.
 

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I do not have personal experience with this, but from what I have read you do not need a PC with a slip on. Some that did use a PC claimed they got more power, but you have to have the right maps for it or get it professionally mapped. So no you do not HAVE to have one.
 

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With or without a slip-on, the stock fuel curve is typically lean at lower revs, and progressively too rich in the upper rev range. Idealy, you're looking for about 13.3:1 air to fuel ratio across the rev range at wide open throttle, and about 14.7:1 normal driving. Note the bottom line on the dynamometer chart depicting A/F ratio at WOT of a Ninja 650R with Arrow slip-on exhaust... A Power Commander enables you to correct A/F mixture for better low end tractability and torque, and for a slight increase in maximum power, for any stock or modified setup, with available maps or custom dyno map.
 

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i like my power commander :) OK,,,about this poping.....mine pops, i do not need this valve? wheres it at? what about the throttle plates, did that give you more power? what are thier purposes?
 

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You don't need the PAIR (Pulsed Air Induction Reed Valve) if you don't have the stock muffler/catalytic converter. The two wires that power the PAIR have to be connected together, or remain connected to PAIR to avoid triggering a trouble code (easily erasable) and the 'FI' light. PAIR sits on front of airbox with a hose coming from airbox, and a hose to a cover on top of engine head. There are different ways to plug the airbox and inlet on the head. I made a cover for the head with 1/4" aluminum plate and plugged the airbox with Permatex black silicone sealant/adhesive.

Sub-throttle plates smooth throttle response by opening slower than the main throttle plates. That's all I'm aware of... Here's a pic with the plates still in and with the PAIR and hoses visible. Second pic is with sub-throttle plates removed.

http://www.fortycaliber.org/ (Click on 'Sub-Throttle Plate Removal' in 'How To' on the left, then scroll for PAIR info.)
 

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Ah the infamous "PAIR" valves. I removed the entire system and blocked off the injection ports on my Honda ST1100. Removed all deceleration popping and gave me piece of mind. There were no rebuild kits and my PAIR valves were not working right. $125 a pop for the valves.

Red
 

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I added the Arrow full system and BMC airfilter and definitely no need for a PCIII, I'm not going to add it; the power gains I got with this setup is awsome. Oh, no other mods and no popping or anything, she runs great and very fuel efficient.

Frank
 

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My bike is running so good with the PCIII that I'm afraid to change anything. Always starts first time no matter what the weather, smooth and plenty of power.

My only complaint is the less mpg, but I can live with that unless gas goes to $10 a gallon.
 

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I too really like my PCIII. I have removed the sub-throttle valves, debaffled the airbox, added a DNA air filter, PCIII, and done a muffler mod like 08versys' with the turbo muffler. The system runs great, then I reprogrammed the PCIII with the akropovic slip-on fuel map (from the powercommander web page)and the bike was transformed! I completely love the bike. Fuel usage did increase some. I now only get 45mpg, but it doesn't change much with light or heavy throttle.

I plan on getting a header of some sort and eventually having the bike dynotuned for a little more power.
 

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Anyone had a dynotune with the pcIII, new filter and a Two Bro's exhaust? Seems like we all might be able to swap some .map files and save some $$$$$$$.
 

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i have the map for my bike that i just had dyno tuned.... two bros.... bmc air filter and a power commander..... you guys are welcome to it, tho each bike is different, it will defently get you in a better ball park..... now lets talk about compensation..... ahahhaha. if you have anything other than that i HIGHLY recomend having it dynoed, run WAY cleaner, better fuel economy, smoother power band, and more power, also i just like the idea a a well tuned machine
 

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i have the map for my bike that i just had dyno tuned.... two bros.... bmc air filter and a power commander..... you guys are welcome to it, tho each bike is different, it will defently get you in a better ball park..... now lets talk about compensation..... ahahhaha. if you have anything other than that i HIGHLY recomend having it dynoed, run WAY cleaner, better fuel economy, smoother power band, and more power, also i just like the idea a a well tuned machine
+1 on the Dyno-tuning. I have Full Arrow system, BMC air filter, PC3 and love it. Here is a link to the Power Commander Thread. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2198&highlight=power+commander

P.S. I have posted my map from my Dyno tuning session.
 

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Anyone had a dynotune with the pcIII, new filter and a Two Bro's exhaust? Seems like we all might be able to swap some .map files and save some $$$$$$$.
Bob,
I think you may be talking about the "Autotune" module. This will only work in conjunction with the Power Commander V. The map file type is different on the Power Commander III. (note: Just reread and I now think you mean having your bike Dyno tuned and getting those maps).

I still believe the PC-V/Autotune is the hot setup as it will continuously revise the map according to your riding style and location. Do a search, "TTPete" on the forum has some good info on installation and adjustment of the PC-V.

The price for a PC-V is virtually identical to the III and the Autotune can be had for $200. I paid $470 shipped for the pair. I added a Leo Vince can for $300 to complete the system.The local Kaw dealer wanted $250 for dyno time, so it was kind of a "duhh" moment. Now I never have to let someone of unknown skill mess with my bike.

Glad to share the PC-V map files, but I live at 5000 ft elevation, so the info probably wouldn't be that useful to anyone down below.

V-Zee
 

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The PC-V with Autotune is the way to go. I use a Leo Vince exhaust because it comes with the O2 sensor bung installed. All you need to do with the PAIR system is to pull the hose off the airbox and shove a plug in it, then reconnect the hose. If you decide to go with this, PM me and I'll walk you through the setup and computer stuff.
 

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All you need to do with the PAIR system is to pull the hose off the airbox and shove a plug in it, then reconnect the hose.
This is EXACTLY what I did. You can reach in under the tank from the left side of the bike, remove the hose, insert plug, and reconnect hose. There is no need to remove the tank, airbox, or absolutely anything for that matter. I used a male aluminim cap plug that was originally made for a hose fitting. I may take some pics and post em later.
 

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Anyone had a dynotune with the pcIII, new filter and a Two Bro's exhaust? Seems like we all might be able to swap some .map files and save some $$$$$$$.
I'm almost there Bob! I got the Two Bros. can last week (you can hear me from Sultan I'm sure!:eek:) and a PCIII may be soon...... just for the fine tuning and smoothing out.
 
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