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FWIW: I've still got my ORIGINAL KLR chain on ('04 w/ 30,000 miles), and use ONLY WD-40 on it, so, if that's the same Kawi brand on the "V" - I'd be very tempted to replace with it.
Ed
 

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make sure the replacement chain is the type that needs the chain breaker to fix and not the one that uses the flimsy clip.

i wouldn't trust the latter as i've had several failures in the past with other bikes. the clip is the weakest link.

new bikes from the factory (like the klr) normally come with an endless link type chain which needs the swing arm to be removed in order to fix em in. these work best and live the longest but require the most work to place onto the bike.

so the rivet type chain is the best option IMHO

o-ring or x ring ? i prefer the x ring, lower resistance when moving. tested and proven on my old klr
 

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I don't trust a clip either. Heard some bad stories of people who said they had it on right and it still came off. When it came off it did some damage and it could hurt.

Matter of fact I just replaced my chain and sprockets this evening. I seem to get about 18,000 miles out of the chains. My last chain was a X ring and I didn't see any difference in feel or life of the chain. This time I put on an OEM chain just cut to length. Rivets, of course. I good chain tool makes the job much easier.
 

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I never had a problem with the clip and will trust it again. It's fine if installed properly.
I agree, I think you just have to be sure the clip is snapped in real good like. It's not like we need a chain that will handle Hayabusa levels of power or anything.

And if someone is worried about it, carry a spare master link. You won't even notice it's in your bag.

C "Looking to replace my chain very soon" C
 

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Wooooh... have chains gotten more expeinsive since I've been overseas??? :confused::confused::confused:

The DID looks like a mighty fine chain but at nearly 200 bucks it's a little intimidating. :eek:

Think I'll wait until a sprocket and chain swap for that one. Until then I've ordered an EK 520 SRX X-Ring chain for about 77USD. It even has the dreaded clip type master link! If it blows up I'll let you know.

:D
CC
 

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The clip link has to be installed with its closed end pointing in the chain's direction. All chains come with the clip link, and some also with a rivet link. A chain specific riveting-type link can be bought seperately... For EK's 520SRX, you have the option of using the included clip-type master link, a riveted-type link (EK# 6287), or a screw-type link (EK# 6303) for about $16.
Screw-type master link: "You don’t need special tools to install your new EK Chain. This unique, patented link gives a rivet-like fit, using only an 8mm wrench and a pair of pliers."
I used an EK 520SRX on a WR426F and it's a very good chain... I'm getting a DID 520VM for $134 CDN including taxes.

Master link type discussion: http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?t=51644
 

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DID chain

I know DID have a very good reputation and I was probably unlucky but the only chain I have EVER had break on me was a top of the range DID X-Ring.
The side-links broke and there were a number of other links cracked. A bad batch no doubt but I won't use them again.It was only about 2,000miles from new on a Yamaha XTZ660 single.
I have always used since then, RK Takasago GXW, XW-ring chain, which was a much meatier chain (at that time).
Ted.
 

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Check out this link. I have the RK 520 X-ring with Vortex Sprockets. I have had no problems with wear. By the way this is a press link chain. If you don't have the tool you might try having your local shop break and fix the chain for you.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932

Cheers,
Bob
 

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you can use a rivet link w/o a rivet tool. a small ball peen hammer alternating w/a center punch will mushroom the rivet out just fine. I usually check link spacing and rivet mushroom diameter out with a dial caliper just to make sure. yea, this means taking off the swingarm if you're going to do it on a bench, but I like the lube the swingarm ever 25k or so anyway. also have had good luck w/clip type links. dry everything off and use 3m weather strip cement on the clip link. glues it on and has a distinctive look for lubing. i've seen guys safety wire them on, too, but the wire eventually breaks, so if you're not racing your V....
 

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you can use a rivet link w/o a rivet tool. a small ball peen hammer alternating w/a center punch will mushroom the rivet out just fine. I usually check link spacing and rivet mushroom diameter out with a dial caliper just to make sure. ...
tomla, you must be good because the first time I changed a chain on another bike, we used a center punch but left the chain as is on the bike and brased it. It was then I saw how easy it was to over-compress the rubber ring inside the link plate.

Now, having the correct chain tool, it is a piece of cake to do. Matter of fact, the whole process of pressing the link plate on and then making the rivets, all done with the chain tool, is so easy and fast it makes me wonder why people even use clips just to save a few minutes of extra effort.
 

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In Ontario Canada, it is illegal to use a clip link on any bike driven on Hiways, it will not pass a safety test. This has been in force for 4 years now, I assume that some smart person in the motor vehicle department felt it was easier to make it illegal than educate the direction the clip faces on a master link , much like a arrow, points in the direction of rotation.
 

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In Ontario Canada, it is illegal to use a clip link on any bike driven on Hiways, it will not pass a safety test. This has been in force for 4 years now..
I do prefer using the rivet link included with chains, although our local dealer does accept a clip link to pass safety inspection..

According to the Highway Traffic Act, R.R.O. 1990, REGULATION 611, SAFETY INSPECTIONS.
Consolidation Period: From July 1, 2011 to the e-Laws currency date (June 29, 2012).
SCHEDULE 6
INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS AND PERFORMANCE STANDARDS FOR MOTORCYCLES EXCEPT MOTORCYCLES WITH TWO FRONT WHEELS.
BODY WORK-
(8) The chain, belt or driven sprocket shall not be excessively worn, frayed or loose and no fasteners in connection with those parts shall be missing, loose, cut or damaged.

http://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/html/regs/english/elaws_regs_900611_e.htm#BK13
 
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