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I guess the first statement I should make is this disclaimer:

“I will not be responsible if you crash because your throttle sticks open and you don’t hit the kill switch in time.”

I felt the need for an Electronic cruise control on my2015 Versys 1000.

This installation turned out to be a bigger job than originally planned because of my desire to hide the servo cable (from the actuator to the throttle). My solution was to fabricate an assembly with a precision ball bearing sourced from one of my scrap boxes. This bearing was originally a carriage bearing in a Craftsman radial arm saw. The purpose of the bearing assembly is to change the direction of the pulling force from horizontal (left to right) to vertical (straight down).

The largest component of the cruise kit is the servo module. The two most obvious places to mount it seemed to be under the seat or under the fairing on the left side of the fuel tank beside the rectifier / regulator. I chose the latter because I have used up much of the space under the seat with relays, wiring, and the compressor for a Stebel Air Horn. The other bulky component is the vacuum reservoir which I mounted on the opposite side of the tank near the coolant reservoir bottle.

The next thing I to do was determine how to make the connection to the throttle. I knew from previous installations that connecting directly to the throttle bellcrank is not a good idea (not enough mechanical advantage). I drilled and tapped 2 tiny holes for 4-40 threads in the tab of the throttle and fabricated a small arm about ¾ inch long to provide some added leverage to rotate the throttle shaft. There is a beaded chain connector in the cruise parts kit that attaches to the end of this arm via small hole (about 1/8 inch). The pull direction is straight down.

At this point I needed to decide how to route the servo cable and where to position the end of the cable to pull on the beaded chain. My first version was a simple 90 degree bracket to position the end of the cable directly under the throttle bellcrank arm. This bracket attached to the frame using a long 10mm bolt (about 50-60mm) to replace the original bolt that is 35mm long (I also needed to run a tap through the hole to thread the last 1 or 2 mm since the original bolt hole was not threaded all the way thru). This method worked ok but it left a lot of exposed servo cable. I didn’t take any pictures at this point because I was not satisfied with the appearance (exposed servo cable).

The only way I could figure out to hide the servo cable was to fabricate a pulley that would allow the beaded chain to change direction by 90 degrees. I did this by making a 2 piece assembly that bolts in under the throttle bellcrank. The first piece is a simple “L” shaped bracket that attaches to the end of the before mentioned 10mm x 50 mm bolt. The second piece has the large grooved bearing (as described above) and a hole for the end of the servo cable to be attached and adjusted for ball chain slack. This allows all components to be completely hidden when the covers are put back on. The attached pictures should make this more clear (I hope). The slack in the ball chain is a critical adjustment.

The cruise control can use either a magnetic pickup (magnets and coil) at the rear wheel or engine RPM from a tach signal or coil wire. I tested it with a coil wire attachment to the #1 coil and it functioned properly but I decided to use the speed sensor at the rear wheel (personal preference, actual speed vs engine RPM). I also had several of the necessary magnets on hand (leftover from a McCruise installation on my FJR1300). 2 of the tiny magnets are inserted in brake rotor bolt heads 180 degrees apart.

The down side to using the magnetic coil as the speed sensor is that you loose the automatic over-rev protection provided by the RPM sensor. I got around that by adding a clutch switch and relay that will kill the cruise instantly, similar to touching front or rear brake levers.

Since the Versys 1k has a LED brake light a relay needs to be added to simulate the filament of an incandescent brake lamp bulb. This circuit (the purple wire in the cruise wiring harness) requires a ground for the cruise to operate. I used normally closed contacts of the 2 added relays (clutch and brake) in series to ground for this safety disengagement circuit.

I chose not to use the included CCS-100 control panel because it is hard to mount it cleanly and is awkward to use the switches (also not waterproof). A simple momentary toggle switch (SPDT) is all that is needed for set/dec and res/acc. This switch is mounted inside the kill switch housing. The cruise on/off is accomplished with a mini toggle switch mounted to the right of the instruments.

One last thing to stress is to be certain that there is no possibility for the beads to become tangled or stuck on any nearby hardware when the throttle is being opened manually (not under servo control). The design of my pulley assembly prevents this from happening.

Pictures to follow soon (I hope:smile2:)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
.

Terrific write up Tom! So how well does it work?
The cruise has operated flawlessly for the last few months. I don't expect any issues. The Audiovox cruise has always been rock solid for me!
 

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Control Switch


Audiovox Servo Location


Magnetic Pickup at Rear Wheel


Pulley Assembly connected to Servo Cable


Pulley Assembly another view


Servo Cable fully extended (before connection)


Cruise on/off Switch and heated grip switch



Mounting bolt for Pulley Assembly (longer than stock)


Fully Assembled Pulley and Chain ready to ride


Better View Throttle Bellcrank to Pulley
 

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Referencing the change of direction bearing, I used a roller and included bracket for the bottom of a sliding patio door for the install on my one liter Connie. The pulley worked for over 200k miles when I sold it.

I didn't need a pulley for the Rostra install on my V650 gen3.

Just adding a maybe resource in case someone has the need. And quite frugal.
 
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I forgot my nice words.

Thanks for the great write up.
 
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I have an Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control system, that I’m planning to install on my 2015 1000 LT. Everything that I can find here, seems to involve installing the magnets on the rear wheel, for the sensor.

I installed one of these on my ST1300, and used the ignition coil primary wire as my sensor input. So, my question is, has anyone used the ignition coil on a Versys for the pulse signal for the cruise?

Thanks,
Nashcat
 

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I don't know why you couldn't but why not use the speed sensor wire? I installed the Audiovox on my old Connie and a Rostra on my 650 Vs.


The Audiovox did work better but mounting the servo and vacuum canister on the 650 looked problematic. The Rostra replaced my Evap canister perfectly, didn't even have to drill new holes.
 

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What made the Audiovox work better on your Connie than the Rostra on your Versys?
A curious guy wants to know. :)
On my Rostra if you speed up to pass someone and then let off of the throttle the Rostra is waaaayy late picking up again, dropping 10 or more mph. Very little lag with the Audiovox. Problem with the AV is that the main ubit is quite a bit larger and you need a vacuum canister. Easy on a c-10 Connie, not so much with the 650 Versys.

Curiosity eased?
 

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On my Rostra if you speed up to pass someone and then let off of the throttle the Rostra is waaaayy late picking up again, dropping 10 or more mph. Very little lag with the Audiovox.
I've never noticed this action on mine. Maybe I compensate with the throttle without realizing it LOL! I will need to test this on mine.

Problem with the AV is that the main ubit is quite a bit larger and you need a vacuum canister. Easy on a c-10 Connie, not so much with the 650 Versys.
I'm very familiar with the operation of the Audiovox and also of the vacuum canister requirements because I had one on my Valkyrie for over 10 years. I had an Audiovox ready to install on my Gen3 Versys 650 but just couldn't find the space required to install it. That's when I went to the Rostra.


Curiosity eased?
Yes sir! Thank you! :)
 

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I've never noticed this action on mine. Maybe I compensate with the throttle without realizing it LOL! I will need to test this on mine.

I'm very familiar with the operation of the Audiovox and also of the vacuum canister requirements because I had one on my Valkyrie for over 10 years. I had an Audiovox ready to install on my Gen3 Versys 650 but just couldn't find the space required to install it. That's when I went to the Rostra.


Yes sir! Thank you! :)
I've thought about modifying the tab that is mounted on the bell crank so the attachment point was farther away from pivot shaft but have never had the desire to dive in. i have messed with the micro switches trying o improve it, but no joy. Except for this minor inconvenience, it works a treat.
 

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What are you looking for ? Engine RPM or Speed?
The Rostra controls engine speed through the speed sensor.
On the other hand, the Audiovox CCS100 controls engine speed using RPM signals along with engine vacuum.


Short answer: RPM :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Audiovox speed sensing options

The Rostra controls engine speed through the speed sensor.
On the other hand, the Audiovox CCS100 controls engine speed using RPM signals along with engine vacuum.


Short answer: RPM :)
I just noticed that my old post was resurrected. Here's a copy/paste of 2 paragraphs in post #1:


The cruise control can use either a magnetic pickup (magnets and coil) at the rear wheel or engine RPM from a tach signal or coil wire. I tested it with a coil wire attachment to the #1 coil and it functioned properly but I decided to use the speed sensor at the rear wheel (personal preference, actual speed vs engine RPM). I also had several of the necessary magnets on hand (leftover from a McCruise installation on my FJR1300). 2 of the tiny magnets are inserted in brake rotor bolt heads 180 degrees apart.

The down side to using the magnetic coil as the speed sensor is that you loose the automatic over-rev protection provided by the RPM sensor. I got around that by adding a clutch switch and relay that will kill the cruise instantly, similar to touching front or rear brake levers.

END copy/paste

There is nothing wrong with either method of cruise operation. Attaching the RPM sensing wire to the #1 (or any other) coil primary winding offers a slight advantage of providing additional over rev protection.

I used the cruise with the RPM sensor on the coil for a few hundred miles and it functioned properly. I wanted to challenge myself to complicate the installation by adding a magnetic speed sensor at the rear wheel. This also required (to my mind at least) the addition of a clutch switch and relay so the engine wouldn't over rev if I pulled in the clutch without first touching the brake.

My first post shows how I lengthened the throttle bellcrank. If I had it to do again I would epoxy the short piece of aluminum stock to the bellcrank (used to increase mechanical advantage) instead of drilling / tapping with the 4-40 screws. This could help in the (unlikely) event that the throttle chain got hung up and caused an over speed (runaway) condition. The throttle could be forced back to idle by breaking the epoxy bond (I think :smile2:)
 
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