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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 Versys. The chain is shot so I bought an OEM front and rear sprocket and a DID chain. I can easily do the rear sprocket myself. However, I have no air tools or chain tools so figured I'd get a local dealership to install the front sprocket and chain. They want $140 for labor to do this part of it and another $50 if i have them do the rear sprocket too.

Anyone have an opinion on if this labor quote is fair? I did not buy the parts from them because they were above MSRP on each of them and still needed a week or so to get them in. I understand a dealership has to make a profit to stay in business, I just don't want to be taken for a ride.

I think if I'm going to be into this for $200 in labor I'd rather put that money towards a compressor and a few air tools.
 

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If you don't mind what dealership is this at? Hopefully I will be due for my 15k mile maintenance yet this year and I am wondering where to take it. I might also do the chain and sprockets at that time so I can be good to go until 25k. I bought my bike at Ken's but I have never had anything serviced there.
 

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just buy the right size socket, have someone tromp on the rear brake and bust it loose yourself with a breaker bar. a metal bar through the wheel resting against the swingarm will hold it too. the reason they are charging so much is to make up for all the lost business because of their pricing.. circular argument there, lol worst part will be riveting the chain but i prefer a clip link anyways...
 

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If you don't mind what dealership is this at? Hopefully I will be due for my 15k mile maintenance yet this year and I am wondering where to take it. I might also do the chain and sprockets at that time so I can be good to go until 25k. I bought my bike at Ken's but I have never had anything serviced there.
IF you've kept your chain lubed, you can probably get WAY MORE than 15K miles from it. My ORIGINAL '08 chain has over 35,000 miles, and has been adjusted about 12 'flats' (2 whole turns) in that time. My '09 OEM chain is at just over 10,000 miles, adjusted a total of 4 'flats'. (Hex nuts have 6 sides, or 'flats', so I always adjust by doing the same number of 'flats' side-to-side.) My '04 KLR went 54,000 kms on the original chain.

A common error which WILL shorten chain life, is over-tightening it. I ALWAYS make a small adjust, then tighten the rear axle, and RE-CHECK chain tension. You'll be surprised how small the chain adjustments can be. Then either 'button' it up, or loosen the axle and re-adjust.

In addition, I ONLY use WD40 on my chains, and do it more frequently than most people do.

:goodidea:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
IF you've kept your chain lubed, you can probably get WAY MORE than 15K miles from it. My ORIGINAL '08 chain has over 35,000 miles, and has been adjusted about 12 'flats' (2 whole turns) in that time. My '09 OEM chain is at just over 10,000 miles, adjusted a total of 4 'flats'. (Hex nuts have 6 sides, or 'flats', so I always adjust by doing the same number of 'flats' side-to-side.) My '04 KLR went 54,000 kms on the original chain.

A common error which WILL shorten chain life, is over-tightening it. I ALWAYS make a small adjust, then tighten the rear axle, and RE-CHECK chain tension. You'll be surprised how small the chain adjustments can be. Then either 'button' it up, or loosen the axle and re-adjust.

In addition, I ONLY use WD40 on my chains, and do it more frequently than most people do.

:goodidea:
I know the chain is being properly adjusted since I bought the bike but I have no idea what happened to it during its first 8500 miles with the previous owner. All I know is it was stretched and binding. I figured it's time to give the bike a bit of love.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just after lunch time I stopped by a bike shop about a mile from my house. For bikes they're mainly a Harley place but he said he'd do the install on a straight time basis. They've done work in the past on my snowmobile and treated me right so I figured what the heck.

Less than two hours later I had my bike back with the new front and rear sprockets and chain installed. Total bill was $90. And the mechanic that did the work said he had a blast doing the post-install test drive and that the bike was a great ride.

I'm happy with the work they did and also ok with the price.

Moral: There's life beyond the dealerships.
 

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I picked up a Tuck chain tool set when I needed a chain on the KLR, it'll work on the Versys as well, cost right at $70.00. I buy tools that I need IF I think I'll get a long term return on them. If I don't think I'll use it enought to pay for it I get the shop to do the job. My local auto tire shop broke the counter shaft nut free with a air impact wrench for free. The rest was done in my garage in less than an hour.

BTW I live in dread of the 90fp on the Versys as the 72fp on the KLR was more like 75 MILE TONS! I tried a breaker bar and the brake trick...all I did was crank the bike around the shop! Once it was off and I retorqued it to 72fp it's no longer a problem.
 

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IF you've kept your chain lubed, you can probably get WAY MORE than 15K miles from it. My ORIGINAL '08 chain has over 35,000 miles, and has been adjusted about 12 'flats' (2 whole turns) in that time. My '09 OEM chain is at just over 10,000 miles, adjusted a total of 4 'flats'. (Hex nuts have 6 sides, or 'flats', so I always adjust by doing the same number of 'flats' side-to-side.) My '04 KLR went 54,000 kms on the original chain.

A common error which WILL shorten chain life, is over-tightening it. I ALWAYS make a small adjust, then tighten the rear axle, and RE-CHECK chain tension. You'll be surprised how small the chain adjustments can be. Then either 'button' it up, or loosen the axle and re-adjust.

In addition, I ONLY use WD40 on my chains, and do it more frequently than most people do.

:goodidea:
When you mentioned adjusting the chain XX Flats, what does that mean? I thought the only way to adjust the chain was to loosen the rear axle nuts and move it more to the rear?

I have only put 1k miles on my 08 since I bought it, but it has a little over 11K miles, so I don's know how much adjustment has been done. I have not adjusted it at all.

Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
 

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When you mentioned adjusting the chain XX Flats, what does that mean? I thought the only way to adjust the chain was to loosen the rear axle nuts and move it more to the rear?

I have only put 1k miles on my 08 since I bought it, but it has a little over 11K miles, so I don's know how much adjustment has been done. I have not adjusted it at all.

Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Each hex nut or bolt has 6 "flats" - those are the six sides. When adjusting a chain, after loosening the axle and the 'locking' nut, then turn the adjuster-bolt with your 12mm wrench the SAME number of 'flats' each side AND IN THE SAME DIRECTION (ie CCW) so that you don't "cock" the axle. (This presupposes that the axle was aligned properly BEFORE you began.)

Unless something is REALLY 'buggared', it should not require many 'flats' of adjusting.

:goodluck:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I also sometimes find it helpful to use a caliper to make sure I'm the same distance from the first (or last) hash mark on the swingarm (C) to the wheel alignment indicator (A) on both sides of the bike. I think there's 5mm between each hash mark (C) on the swingarm so when I can't find the caliper, I've used one of my small metal metric rulers.



The new DID Pro Street VX2 chain I got from RidersDiscount is functioning great so far.
 

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I bought a spare EK X-ring chain today for the Versys, I think it's 114 links. I use the same chain on the KLR at 108 lnks. This one's 118 links long so all I have to do is pop a few links!

It was a close out at a local shop that's shuting down and at $40.00 I couldn'r say no to a new chain still in the box. I'd paid close to $100.00 for the last one I bought for the KLR and this is the same brand and all.
 
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