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Discussion Starter #1
For a year-rounder heading into the cooler temps, what all should be covered in prep for the winter season? Not going to park the bike except for times when there is snow or ice on the road (maybe a few weeks in the bitterest of NY winter). Even when garaged, though, the bike will probably be exposed to temps in the teens.

I have some off-days next week, & have ordered supplies to change the oil. I figured I'd change the coolant too - to make sure it was 100% antifreeze, in case the previous owner may have diluted it with water.

Any insight on coolant changes?

Should I do anything to the fuel system? Charging system? Or just leave well enough alone . .

Just looking to go into the cold season running smooth & prepared . .
 

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Drain coolant at water pump and drain reservoir, clean pressure cap under running water, refill radiator with distilled water, start and idle for maybe 15 seconds, drain again, then fill with 50% distilled water mixed with concentrated coolant, or with coolant that is pre-mixed with water. Do not use 100% concentrated coolant that is not pre-mixed. Keep your battery regularly charged, and try to store it with fresh engine oil, and full of premium gasoline.

Have you done other required maintenance, such as valve clearance, spark plugs, TB vacuum synch, brake fluid, etc?
 

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Agree to change the coolant if you're not sure of what's in there or when it was last done. If you're riding during the winter, no need for storage procedures. I'd still add ethanol treatment to the tank, I do that year round now. Keep it on a battery tender.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advuce so far. I have done some of the regular maintenance (brake fluid, bulbs, easy stuff), but have not looked at the valves, etc., since I just bought the bike.

I guess I didn't realize you still have to sync fuel-injected bikes. I'll look i to this. Still have the equip to do it from my last carbureted bike, but almost threw it away, because I didn't think this bike needed it. You mean sync the throttle bodies, right? (Invader)
 

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I would not ever run 100% antifreeze, in anything. Sure, it wont freeze like water, but it doesnt have heat removing properties like water does. eventually the engine will reach operating temps no matter what the ambient temperature is, and then the thermostat will start cycling as needed. A 50/50 rate should take you well into the negative temps

If you have the means, and if it will really be in a garage, i might look into getting an electric blanket. If you drape it over the front enough to cover the engine and leave it on overnight you wont have any cold start issues in the morning. Im not sure if this bike has that problem, but most engines (and batteries) start better when warm. I wouldnt recommend any area heaters as they might get too hot and melt plastics
 

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Yes I meant vacuum synchronizing the throttle bodies. They each have a capped vacuum port on the front. Adjustment screw is on rear of TB, easily accessible with removed airbox and rear of fuel tank propped up. To have them equal at 1,300 rpm idle, leave the TB screw that is shut, shut, and adjust the other TB screw. Do it after valve adjustment and spark plug replacement.

No maintenance records came with it, eh? How much mileage is there on your 2008?
 

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Check air pressure in the tires on a weekly basis.
As the ambient air temp drops the tire pressure drops approx. 1 lb. per 10 degrees F of ambient air temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No, no maintenance records. The seller moved out of town several months prior, taking the records with him, and kept the bike in storage. After inspecting & test-riding the bike, I felt it was clear that she had been maintained well (probably better than most, honestly), & didn't ask him to go dig up the receipts.

She has about 21,000 miles as of now. I've only had her about a week, but she runs like a dream - amazingly smooth, & very powerful.

All of my liquid-cooled vehicles (bikes and cars) have been in the south where deep winter means 50 degrees. So I've never had to think about what to do when it actually freezes. It's good to know that you're supposed to cut antifreeze with water - I had no idea. :eek:
 

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You want to check your valve clearances as soon as you can, if you can't be sure it was done already. Some valve lash clearances are usually found to be lacking upon the first checkup, especially on the exhaust side.

Coolant mixed 50/50 provides freeze protection down to -37C (-34F). You only need 1.4 quart (1.3 liter). Available pre-mixed coolant is also 50/50 concentrated coolant with distilled water. Long life Asian car formula coolant/antifreeze is perfect for your Kawasaki.
 
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